Thursday 3rd September - St. Jean de Losne

This will be my last post for this season folks as it’s full steam ahead clearing the decks and loading the car!  It’s amazing how junked up we have become on Aphrodite so Skip had a good clear out of his papers and put all the heaviest stuff on the port side of the boat.  We have a ballast problem in that we lean to starboard quite noticeably, so we are trying to redress the balance by putting heavier items to port.  We are also planning to acquire some lead blocks for next years’ season.  One of the main reasons for this problem becoming more noticeable is the acquisition of our new drinks fridge on deck.......have to store less beer and wine!!

Crew cleaned the cabin, the saloon and the galley and sorted out the books and DVDs so we are a bit less cluttered now - the rest will wait until next year now.

Henk came over as he wanted to go to the supermarket to stock up on heavy items so Skip drove him to the big Intermarche nearby.  We had a drink on their return and then a bite of lunch.  No time for a siesta today alas, so Crew set to work, organising the ropes - changing the new ropes for the old ones, as they deteriorate so much during the winter weather.

We had a takeaway pizza and a quiet night in front of the TV as usual.

Our 2019 cruise will probably go down as our favourite yet! The high point was definitely the beautiful River Mosel with its’ lovely castles and more vineyards than we have probably ever seen in one area.  But the lower reaches of the Rhine were also beautiful and the cruising fast and exciting.  Also, not to forget the River Saar, which also had its’ attractions.

All together we cruised for 1538 km and worked 324 locks......not bad for us oldies!!  Safe to say however, we have all enjoyed it very much.

There is no plan as such for our 2020 cruise but methinks it will be a more relaxed affair!!

If the blog was a little ‘thin’ some days, I apologise - I put it down to extreme tiredness but thank you for your attention readers and will be back on the job next year!

Au revoir.

Wednesday 2nd October - St. Jean de Losne

Crew woke a little later than desired so didn’t start cleaning till fairly late - we normally have a few days to put Aphrodite to bed for the winter but this year we only have a day and a half.  Skip was talking about having another day to pack up but that meant that we have to drive straight to Belgium in a day - a matter of 400 or so kilometres......way too much methinks!!  So we have to get ourselves sorted in a day and a bit.
Skip had had a sleepless night in Winningen due to more toothache and did not have a very good drive back in heavy rain, lots of trucks and roadworks.  So he was very tired when he got back to St. Jean de Losne around 2 p.m.
Henk was on board putting more ropes on our fenders and Crew doing some odd jobs.  We all had a catch up and a bite of lunch and decided on a last dinner in town, so Henk booked us a table at Le  Bouchon Losnais.
A little aperitif on deck - we cracked open a bottle of Cremant, then we walked to the restaurant.  We have all decided that this was now the best restaurant in town and indeed the meal was superb.  We all had quail - something different to the norm which was cooked beautifully with a lovely sauce.
Back to the boat and an early night after a bit of TV.......we are all very tired!

Tuesday 1st October - St. Jean de Losne

Skip left Aphrodite at 8 am. to walk to the station for his long trip back to Germany to collect the car - five trains in all!  He will stay overnight in Winningen and the drive back tomorrow.

Crew, meanwhile, after a bit of a lie in, started the cleaning and packing up operation, before going into town with Henk for some lunch.  The Bouchon Losnais which was our preferred restaurant was unfortunately not open so we opted for La Cotiniere next door.  However the set menu for €24 was good and we chose some very good wine, if a little expensive.  A bonus was that we managed to eat on the terrace overlooking the river and only when we had our dessert, did it become overcast and a bit chilly.  We paid the bill and luckily just got back to the boat before the rain came.

A few more jobs for Crew in the afternoon then a lazy evening in front of the TV.

Monday 30th September - Dole to St. Jean de Losne

Well folks, this it it - our last cruising day!  The weather was mixed but the good news was that the wind had died down, making cruising more pleasurable......indeed, the forecast was that we would enjoy more sun later.
We left at 9.30 with Henk to follow on later as he was not quite ready.  We had to fill with fuel in St. Jean anyway so he would probably catch us up.

All went well with the locks even though the first four or five were all against us but after a couple of boats came up, the locks were filled for us and made for a quicker trip.  When we arrived at our last one on the Canal du Rhône au Rhin, we had a red light but the lock was open.  We decided to go in and tie off and having looked at the notices, we realised that it was lunch hour - we had missed it by 15 minutes, so a 45 minute wait.....how frustrating!  Never mind - we had a beer and a rest.  This last lock has to be manned because we have to give back our remote control.
Then we were out onto the lovely wide River Saone - so nice to be back!  Just 4 km along the river and we were on the fuel pontoon.  Unfortunately it wasn’t manned so we had to fill using a credit card and were only allowed €148, which took quite some time - having to fill five times!  A Swiss couple came looking for fuel too and tried to moor in front of us.  Stupidly the pontoon is not quite long enough for two boats, so Crew suggested that they raft up alongside us.  I think they were new to boating as they weren’t quite sure how to go about it but Crew guided them alongside us and tied them off.  Henk needed fuel as well so he arrived at the pontoon whilst they were still filling and then came on to Blanquarts’ to join us.  He tried to moor opposite us but found himself grounded.  The marina is full of weed, indeed when we were getting into our berth, the thrusters failed to work so we were grateful to have someone assist us.
We had another late lunch on board and decided to stay in for the rest of the day.  Crew concocted a light supper and we watched some TV - pretty good connection here, apart from when it rains!

23 km 9 locks 4 1/2 hours

Sunday 29th September - Ranchot to Dole

We woke to a beautiful autumn morning, with clear blue skies.......lovely after the dreary days we have endured lately.  We are cruising to one of our favourite towns, Dole - it is a very ancient picturesque town with some very characterful old buildings and a lot of bridges.  It was the birth place of Louis Pasteur, whose father worked in the tannery.

We are now alternating between river and canal luckily, with good depth - Skip no longer anxious!
We arrived at 1.30 and moored in difficult conditions as now the wind was strong and we had to tie off with it against the current.  We were assisted by a very nice young man - not sure what nationality he was as he spoke good English and also German but his boat carried a French ensign.
We had a late lunch again whilst discussing restaurants for the evening. As it was Sunday evening, we thought it best to have a wander around and see which was open.  Both Henk and Skip went into town and found it very lively - there was a festival going on.....it was called Weekend Gourmand du chat perche.  Rough translation the gourmand weekend of the perching cat!
When Crew arose from a short nap, there were hundreds of motorbikes racing around the river banks, making a heck of a noise and hooting horns.
We met for an apero and went into town.  A lot of the streets are fairly steep, which Crew is not so fond of but worth the climb in most cases.  We ended up in Les Cinque Senses, a beautiful restaurant with arched stone ceilings - apart from one couple, we were the only diners.  The waitress was not over friendly but pretty efficient and the boys chose a menu for €29.50 but Crew just chose one course.  The food was excellent.....hope to visit again some time.
The rain had stayed away and we got back to the boat around 9.30 so a bit of TV and bed.

21 km 6 locks 3 1/2 hours

Saturday 28th September - Besancon to Ranchot

We left at 9.45 under occasional blue skies but still with a cold wind - it promises to be an improving sort of day.....hope the forecast is right.  The city of Besancon is surrounded by water so our first job is to get through a small tunnel, ending in a lock - then another lock straight away.  When we got into the lock, the keeper started to close the gates before Henk had got in, so Skip hooted and he stopped the process - don’t fully understand how he didn’t know that two boats were coming through. Crew was informed by Skip that the locks become fewer......not quite sure when as we have eleven today it seems!!
The wind seemed to get even sharper, resulting in Crew resorting to wearing a very unbecoming ski hat!!  All the locks behaved themselves today and we arrived in Ranchot just before three o’clock.  It takes longer to get settled now that the weather is not so good - a lot of canopy to put up,
so a very late lunch today!
After lunch, Henk went over to the restaurant to try and book a table for dinner but alas, it was closed.  So he tried over at the camp site on the other side of the river.....the restaurant there is evidently only open in July and August.  So, dining on board it is!
We only had a pack of minced beef left in the freezer, so Bolognaise it was to be again.  TV behaved itself but as usual, on a Saturday, nothing much we wanted to watch, so we watched The Theory of Everything, Stephen Hawkins’ biography, which we enjoyed very much.

34 km 11 locks 5 1/2 hours

Friday 27th September - Besancon

A rest day today.....hurrah!  We messaged Henk to say that we planned to go into town for lunch, so he got a move on and left Deluz pretty early.  Unfortunately he had a problem at the first double lock - his remote control wouldn’t work.  So a wait for the VNF.  Crew has been told off by Skip for saying we hadn’t needed to call out the VNF......always asking for trouble!!
Henk managed to arrive around 12.30 - good going!  We went into town and decided on the Italian restaurant where we had dined back in May.  Not a bad lunch, although the pichets of wine were  just average.  The weather was grey and damp but we did manage to avoid the rain.
We just watched TV in the evening, whilst observing the students comings and goings.  They had some sort of meeting in the cafe opposite us and then once again, they all made for the music venue for the evening. A hardy lot these students as the on and off rain was heavy at times but they didn’t seem to notice!!  An easy last rest day before we reach our home port.

Thursday 26th September Deluz to Besancon

We decided to leave just before midday, even though the weather was horrible - grey, cool and drizzly.  Working the locks  when the whole boat is wet, not to mention the ropes is not a pleasure.  Also, the locks are filthy, covered in mud and slime - having said that we haven’t had to call out the VNF so far!
Henk messaged us earlier to say he was stuck at the ecluse de garde just outside Baumes-les-Dames.  They were changing the gates - no telling how long it would take!  After we got through our first (double) lock, he messaged again, saying he was underway again.
We arrived around half past two and quickly got settled on the long, practically empty, pontoon.  Then down below to dry out and get warm!  Henk messaged again to say that he had reached Deluz and had decided to stay overnight and catch us up tomorrow - it was not a good day for a long cruise!!
Besancon is a university city and is always buzzing with young people......indeed it seemed to be freshers week, as in the U.K.  There was the sound of music (well, a deep base throb of something like music) a little way from us and as the evening went on crowds of students made their way towards the sound.
We decided on a night in as the weather was not conducive to wandering around town.  Skip cooked our last steaks for dinner.......delicious, we’ll done Skip!  Later in the evening, as we were watching TV, groups of students returned to the town, a lot of them carrying red torches.  They seemed to have had a good time and were in high spirits.....a good time was had by all, we think!

17 km 3 locks (1 double) 2 1/2 hours

Wednesday 25th September - Beaume-les-Dames to Deluz

We woke to a grey soggy morning and a very wet deck.....summer is definitely over!   Henk decided to stay on another night as he hoped to meet up with his friends so we left just before 10 a.m.
With the hope of no more rain wet set off on a fairly difficult trip as the river was full of sandbanks - to be avoided at all costs!  For several stretches of water we had to slow down to avoid being grounded which made for an anxious Skip.  Our first lock was 4.2 metres and took quite a while to fill for us.
There was a very narrow shallow cut leading to our fourth lock and it wasn’t until we were near the lock that we noticed there was a boat coming up. So a difficult reverse for Skip back into wider waters - the wind didn’t help either.  The last two locks went well if a little chilly......the wind was bitingly cool.
We arrived in Deluz just before one o’clock and managed to find a space with a finger pontoon to tie off on.  We had some lunch but retired below afterwards as it was raining on and off.  The port was very quiet and although Crew saw a dog board our neighbour, no human was in sight.....maybe he’s a guard dog!!
A lazy afternoon and evening followed with Crew in the galley cooking bacon wrapped chicken.  TV was good apart from rain interference.

17 km 6 locks 2 3/4 hours

Tuesday 24th September - L’isle sur Doubs to Beaume-les-Dames

We left at 9.30 on a cool grey morning......a shame because the autumn scenery was beautiful.  The vague plan was to stop at Clerval one boat each side of a lock.  Two locks from Clerval we lost Henk!  In the lock he waved his arms at me and put five fingers up, meaning he needed time to do something but I misconstrued his wave as a ‘good morning’ wave, so we left the lock as usual.  To our dismay the lock gates closed, with him still in the lock!  He had to ascend the lock again, reverse out and start all,over again......sorry Henk!  So now we are cruising separately!!
There is technically a port in the village but we have notice of it being an unsafe mooring as there are sandbanks near the pontoon.  The ‘mooring places’ were actually landing stages for the locks and not strictly for use as overnight berths.  Also the river narrowed considerably on the pontoon we were to use after the lock, so we aborted that idea!  The official pontoon was actually sitting on a sandbank - so we moved on!!  It’s a shame for Henk as he has a friend who lives in Clerval.
It seems that there are no official stopping places apart from the landing stages, so Beaume-les-Dames it is!!
We arrived in Baumes-les-Dames at three o’clock and got settled to wait for Henk who arrived about an hour later.  We had drinks and a quick bite to eat, even though it was pretty late and decided to take a cab into town for dinner as it was raining on and off by now.
We assembled on deck for an apero and took the taxi into town at 7.30 to the Charleston restaurant wher we had eaten before with Henk.  It is a charming old fashioned establishment which serves excellent food.  The waitress greeted Henk with enthusiasm and two kisses!  Henk overwintered here three years ago and visited the restaurant many times during that time.
We had a lovely meal with excellent wines - home around 10.30 p.m.  a little TV and bed.

31 km 14 locks 5 1/2 hours

Monday 23rd September - L’isle sur Doubs

Crew woke to the sound of rain but, no matter......no clock watching this morning!  By the time Skip had given Aphrodite a good clean outside and Crew had put some washing on, we thought we would go into town.  It was market day but unfortunately, they were closing down so only a few stalls left.  Crew still managed to buy a silk flower arrangement for the boat.  The bar we had been to before was closed and another establishment which Skip thought might be a restaurant was just a rather shabby bar, so we decided to go to the supermarket - a fairly large  Intermarche.  On the way back, we went to look at a restaurant just across the bridge, which was serving a simple two course menu plus wine for €15.  One of the choices was Moules Mariniere....one of our favourites!  So us and our shopping settled ourselves in the busy little cafe, looking forward to our first moules this year.  We guessed that  some of the clientele were market people, so there was a lot of loud banter going on - good atmosphere!  There was a slightly more upmarket restaurant attached to the cafe but we were happy with our choice.
Henk arrived shortly after we returned to the boat and, after getting settled came over for a beer and we chatted for a while.  Crew optimistically hung the washing out - the weather has been very changeable today, with dark clouds threatening every now and again but, luckily no rain.
The usual rest and then lazy evening in front of the TV - Skips’ favourite Only Connect on tonight.  Don’t understand it......can’t answer any of the questions!!!!

Sunday 22 nd September - Montbeliard to L’isle sur Doubs

We woke to very different weather - grey skies and indeed, a bit of rain around 8 a.m.  We decided on a 9.30 departure time but unfortunately, Henk was unwell, so we decided to go on ahead.
We are now working our movements out to try and avoid cruising in the rain as the weather forecast is not too good for the next few days.  Although it was cloudy there were a few breaks in the cloud, allowing a few glimmers of sun to peek through and it definitely felt warmer without the wind.
All the locks are set against us once more alas, so we had to wait for them to fill each time.  At our second lock, a red squirrel ran across the lock gate and started to climb a tree he fancied on the other side of the lock.  Not a sight we often see in the UK.
After several locks another boat passed us coming upriver - hurrah we thought.  But our joy was short lived as only our first lock afterwards was set our way, then back to normal, waiting for them to fill.  We think it’s to do with saving water on the canal.
The last half of our locks were worked in lovely sunshine - not exactly as forecast but nevertheless very welcome and the scenery was very pretty, interspersed with quaint villages.
 We arrived in L’isle sur Doubs at 2.30 and had a planning meeting with an aperitif before a light lunch.  Henk messaged us to say that he was going to stay another night in Montbeliard and that he would join us in I’isle sur Doubs tomorrow as long as he was well enough.
The next proper stop would be Baumes-les-Dames which is over 30 km and 14 locks away and will take several hours.  The question is, can we do it in the dry, as rain is forecast on and off for the next few days.  So we decide to make a stop halfway - will decide where on the way.
Skip suggested a takeaway pizza, to which Crew quickly agreed!  The usual pizza estaurant was closed so it did mean he had to walk a bit further but well worth it......a very good pizza was enjoyed.
TV and bed......and a rest day tomorrow!!  😁

24 km 11 locks 5 hours

Saturday 21st September - Chateau Montreux to Montbeliard

We left on another sunny morning with less than a chill in the air than recently.  As we approached our third lock, we noticed a lot of cars parked on the towpath.......fishing competition!  So very slowly out of the lock to the side of the canal until we ran out of fishing poles!!  They do take their fishing very seriously obviously!
Yesterday we ascended just over forty metres but now we are descending until we reach our home base - so much easier!  It would have been quicker still if the locks had been in our favour.  However, not so, we had to wait for them all to fill.
We arrived in Montbeliard around 1.30 p.m., surprised to find the port fairly empty.  For some reason, Skip decided on going front in on a small finger pontoon.  A young man bravely tried to help us moor but we decided (after some strong words from Crew!) to find a more spacious berth.  We went comfortably alongside a main pontoon - not sure why we didn’t do that in the first place,  onsidering the amount of available space!!
It was a beautiful sunny day but again, with a fair breeze blowing, so we just put the sun screens up to shield us from sun and wind.  Then a smoked salmon lunch with Henk.  We all decided not to go out for dinner again - just an easy supper for us all.
TV reception was very good but alas, no decent programmes to watch really....Saturday night!!  A shame we are not fans of Strictly Come Dancing!

21 km 11 locks 4 hours

Friday 20th September - Dannemarie to Montreux-Chateau

We left the mooring at 9.30 again - another sunny but chilly morning, thankfully, the wind had lessened - still a chilly north easterly though!  Today is to be our last day of going uphill but with fifteen locks very close to each other, promises to be a bit tough going!
We had a new lady lock keeper who, with two male colleagues, enjoyed a lot of cheerful banter lockside - even Skip joined in with his schoolboy French!  A very jolly crowd.
We very soon got into a rhythm and the lady keeper was brilliant, taking all our lines and running backwards and forwards to operate the locks.......we got through all fifteen locks in two and a half hours!!!   Must be a record!
Another 45 minutes saw us tied up in Montreux - a nice peaceful little port.  A little apero and then some lunch.....still on deck, even though the wind was chilly.  We can give ourselves some protection with our canopy plus added back and side protection, so we can still be quite comfortable on deck.
There is a large peniche restaurant moored here and, although we have visited Montreux twice before, we have never managed to eat there but this time, it seems it is open for dinner!  So Skip went over and booked us a table.
The usual routine followed - siesta, shower, apero on deck, then dinner.  The restaurant down below on the peniche is quite spacious and quite pleasant.  There was only one waitress and quite a few customers - she was efficient without being over friendly.  Skip had a very unusual steak tartare with tomatoes, onions and cheese.....a different experience but all in all, he preferred the usual recipe.  Henk and Crew had a very good piece of duck as a main course but Crew was unable to do it justice, having had a starter, so asked to take it away, which she subsequently left on the table!!  What a waste!
Back to the boats, TV and bed.

10 km 15 locks 3 1/2 hours

Thursday 19th September - Heidwiller to Dannemarie

Our lady lock keeper arrived at the mooring at 9.30 - our pre-arranged time of departure but we had to give Henk a shout as he had not yet been on deck.  As we progressed through our dozen locks of the day, it was clear that the keeper had maybe had a change of heart, as she was no longer helping with Henks’ rope or indeed, having happy chats with him.  Yesterday she wanted to join him on his boat....not quite sure what has happened here!!

We have quite a few locks today - double figures!  As you know, Crew likes double figures but only in the mornings....not locks!!  Needs must though. We were blessed with sunny weather but with a biting north easterly wind, which gradually increased as the day went on.  We had to stop for lunch for an hour and a half as there was a boat coming downstream.
We arrived in Dannemarie just after 2.30 and were directed to two berths, one on a finger pontoon and one alongside.  We decided on going front in on the finger which Skip managed very well....it was just going to be a lot of fiddling with ropes to get us straightened up so the man helping us suggested that maybe we would be better alongside the main quay.  We agreed to move - wrong decision!!   The wind was so strong by now that we had a brush with a cruiser and managed to scrape some paint off by having contact with his anchor.......merde!!!!  We finally managed to tie off in very gusty conditions.
We had a drink and a very light lunch with the idea of going for dinner in the evening but, come the hour, Skip was not feeling up to it really as he had a gum infection which was giving him trouble on and off.  So Henk went off and had a very good meal at the Auberge de Leonard and Crew cook a Spaghetti  Bolognaise.
TV and bed.

10 km 12 locks 5 hours

10 km 12 locks 5 hours

Wednesday 18th September - Mulhouse to Heidwiller

We left at 9.30 on a sunny but cool morning.  Now we are back to the normal French locks and have a few chains of locks in the next few days......all ascending and assisted by lock keepers.  This is nice but we prefer having a remote control as we can move when we want to and don’t have to stop for lunch.
We had a very nice lady keeper, who took our ropes for us to begin with but she got talking to Henk and obviously took a shine to him.  After that she only took his rope!!!   She saw us through both the locks and two lifting bridges.
Unfortunately we didn’t quite make our destination by lunch time so we did indeed stop for lunch en route - just two locks to go.
As there are not many stopping places on this stretch of the canal, we just moored on some bollards  near the village of Heidwiller, which was very peaceful.  It’s good to stop in such places sometimes, away from the hustle and bustle of a town or village.
There was, according to our lock keeper, a good restaurant in the village but it was a bit of a walk and   when we googled it, it was closed on a Wednesday, of course!  So Crew marinaded the big prawns that we had bought in Mulhouse and made a potato and fennel gratin and some veg......not too shabby!
Some TV and bed.

13 km 11 locks 5 hours

Tuesday 17th September - Mulhouse

A two night stop here in Mulhouse, so a lovely lie in for Crew!!  Skip made a couple of trips to the nearby supermarket, while Crew put the washing on.  We needed to fill with water too which was not too easy as we were a long way from the source and needed an adaptor for the hose....Skip got it done though!
We were last here on our Wedding Anniversary and had a lovely lunch in Il Citoile and considered re-visiting today but decided that it was a special occasion kind of place and we would go a bit more casual.  So Skip researched a Lebanese restaurant which had good reviews on Trip Advisor and the three of us made for it just before one o’clock.  When we arrived we realised that we had eaten there before, quite some years ago but neither of us can remember whether or not it was Lebanese then.  Henk and Crew had a very tasty lamb kebab and Skip a spicy minced lamb dish, all washed down with a very good Lebanese red wine. We had a little digestif on board before retiring for a siesta.  Then, after sorting out the washing, an evening of TV again.......a nice rest day!

Monday Monday 16th September - Kembs to Mulhouse

The plan was to leave around 11 a.m. as we had a short days’ cruising ahead of us.  However when Skip phoned the Capitaine at Mulhouse to ensure berths for us, he had to ask him for the phone number of the lock keeper.  We have to ask for a time to lock through, enabling us to reach Mulhouse.   The keeper informed us that we could only go through from 4 p.m. - so a very late departure for us!

We had a light lunch on board before departure and left the port at 2 p.m.......now very hot but with a nice breeze, 30c!!  We arrived at the lock before 4 o’clock but the keeper was already there and we locked through fairly quickly.  A 2 km run into Mulhouse saw us greeted by the Capitaine and tied up by 4.30 p.m.
Before we have always been moored on the pontoons here but this time we were directed alongside where passenger boats normally moor.  This was fine except that there is no security gate, so we decided to empty our top deck fridge of all alcohol before bedtime.......a bit of a nuisance really but needs must!
We decided on a lazy evening and to go out for a nice lunch tomorrow so we just had an easy supper, watched TV and bed.

17 km 1 lock 2 1/2 hours

Sunday 15th September - Breisach to Kembs

We agreed to try and start at 8 a.m. as we had a long day ahead but it was 8.30 a.m. in the end on another lovely sunny morning.  Our first lock was not far and when we got back on the river, we came across two barges making for the lock too.  Luckily the second barge went alongside the first one, so there was plenty of room for us to tie off behind them.  These big locks are run by the French company EDF and we now have floating bollards to take us up the lock, meaning that we just have to tie off and let the bollard do the work.  We sat in the lock waiting for what seemed like an age before it started filling.  There was another big barge in the smaller lock going downriver so we think the keeper was juggling the water levels.

I am incorrectly calling this a river, as its’ proper name is the Grand canal d’Alsace and indeed it is like a canal, only much wider.  There is no scenery to speak of - no villages even to break the monotony......not so good for such a long days’ cruising!
The commercial barges went ahead of us fairly quickly so we were surprised that they waited for us in our second lock.  We tucked in behind them as before.  Not such luck for our next lock - one of the barges had stopped for unloading so the other one went on without us, so we hung around for quite a long time.  When, eventually we got into the lock, we waited more until a fast speed boat came racing up to join us......still we waited!!  So this lock took one and a quarter hours to go up - and no floating bollards on this one!
Our final lock of the day was much smaller, then three slow km to the little port of Kembs, arriving around 4.30 p.m......a very long hot day!!
As it was so late, we didn’t bother with lunch but just had a couple of beers and arranged to meet up for a drink before dinner.  Skip phoned the restaurant, Petit Kemps, at six o’clock and booked us a table for 7.30.  We had a very good meal, if a little expensive, on our way downriver, so we’re looking forward to it, even though we were all very tired.
And indeed, it was excellent - we all had the menu du jour at €45 for three courses, then back to the boats for an early night.

45 km 4 locks 8 hours

Saturday 14th September - Breisach

A well deserved rest day today - although that means changing the bed and doing a wash for Crew and Skip cleaning the outside of the boat.
This whole weekend is a celebration in Breisach, dedicated to partying.  In the clubhouse the bar is open and during the day there is water ski-ing and wake boarding - in the evening a barbecue and music.  There were also various events in town too so we decided to have a wander round just before midday.  We watched a young man walking the tightrope......haven’t seen that for a while.  There was also a high wire on which motorbikes were to ride but unfortunately, we missed that.  We found a nice little restaurant for some lunch.  There was only one waitress and it became very busy - we both felt very sorry for her but she was super efficient and managed to keep people fed and watered.  We both had a flammenkuchen, which is a kind of very thin pizza but with a creme fraiche base instead of cheese...very nice.  On the way back to the boat we stopped off at the clubhouse and watched some  ski-ing and boarding - an enjoyable morning!
Henk, meanwhile had made several trips to a service station on his bike to collect fuel - in all 140 litres.
We stayed up top for quite a while, listening to the music over at the clubhouse and watching the most incredibly red sunset - then below for some TV and bed....a lovely day.