Sunday 29th September - Ranchot to Dole

We woke to a beautiful autumn morning, with clear blue skies.......lovely after the dreary days we have endured lately.  We are cruising to one of our favourite towns, Dole - it is a very ancient picturesque town with some very characterful old buildings and a lot of bridges.  It was the birth place of Louis Pasteur, whose father worked in the tannery.

We are now alternating between river and canal luckily, with good depth - Skip no longer anxious!
We arrived at 1.30 and moored in difficult conditions as now the wind was strong and we had to tie off with it against the current.  We were assisted by a very nice young man - not sure what nationality he was as he spoke good English and also German but his boat carried a French ensign.
We had a late lunch again whilst discussing restaurants for the evening. As it was Sunday evening, we thought it best to have a wander around and see which was open.  Both Henk and Skip went into town and found it very lively - there was a festival going on.....it was called Weekend Gourmand du chat perche.  Rough translation the gourmand weekend of the perching cat!
When Crew arose from a short nap, there were hundreds of motorbikes racing around the river banks, making a heck of a noise and hooting horns.
We met for an apero and went into town.  A lot of the streets are fairly steep, which Crew is not so fond of but worth the climb in most cases.  We ended up in Les Cinque Senses, a beautiful restaurant with arched stone ceilings - apart from one couple, we were the only diners.  The waitress was not over friendly but pretty efficient and the boys chose a menu for €29.50 but Crew just chose one course.  The food was excellent.....hope to visit again some time.
The rain had stayed away and we got back to the boat around 9.30 so a bit of TV and bed.

21 km 6 locks 3 1/2 hours

Saturday 28th September - Besancon to Ranchot

We left at 9.45 under occasional blue skies but still with a cold wind - it promises to be an improving sort of day.....hope the forecast is right.  The city of Besancon is surrounded by water so our first job is to get through a small tunnel, ending in a lock - then another lock straight away.  When we got into the lock, the keeper started to close the gates before Henk had got in, so Skip hooted and he stopped the process - don’t fully understand how he didn’t know that two boats were coming through. Crew was informed by Skip that the locks become fewer......not quite sure when as we have eleven today it seems!!
The wind seemed to get even sharper, resulting in Crew resorting to wearing a very unbecoming ski hat!!  All the locks behaved themselves today and we arrived in Ranchot just before three o’clock.  It takes longer to get settled now that the weather is not so good - a lot of canopy to put up,
so a very late lunch today!
After lunch, Henk went over to the restaurant to try and book a table for dinner but alas, it was closed.  So he tried over at the camp site on the other side of the river.....the restaurant there is evidently only open in July and August.  So, dining on board it is!
We only had a pack of minced beef left in the freezer, so Bolognaise it was to be again.  TV behaved itself but as usual, on a Saturday, nothing much we wanted to watch, so we watched The Theory of Everything, Stephen Hawkins’ biography, which we enjoyed very much.

34 km 11 locks 5 1/2 hours

Friday 27th September - Besancon

A rest day today.....hurrah!  We messaged Henk to say that we planned to go into town for lunch, so he got a move on and left Deluz pretty early.  Unfortunately he had a problem at the first double lock - his remote control wouldn’t work.  So a wait for the VNF.  Crew has been told off by Skip for saying we hadn’t needed to call out the VNF......always asking for trouble!!
Henk managed to arrive around 12.30 - good going!  We went into town and decided on the Italian restaurant where we had dined back in May.  Not a bad lunch, although the pichets of wine were  just average.  The weather was grey and damp but we did manage to avoid the rain.
We just watched TV in the evening, whilst observing the students comings and goings.  They had some sort of meeting in the cafe opposite us and then once again, they all made for the music venue for the evening. A hardy lot these students as the on and off rain was heavy at times but they didn’t seem to notice!!  An easy last rest day before we reach our home port.

Thursday 26th September Deluz to Besancon

We decided to leave just before midday, even though the weather was horrible - grey, cool and drizzly.  Working the locks  when the whole boat is wet, not to mention the ropes is not a pleasure.  Also, the locks are filthy, covered in mud and slime - having said that we haven’t had to call out the VNF so far!
Henk messaged us earlier to say he was stuck at the ecluse de garde just outside Baumes-les-Dames.  They were changing the gates - no telling how long it would take!  After we got through our first (double) lock, he messaged again, saying he was underway again.
We arrived around half past two and quickly got settled on the long, practically empty, pontoon.  Then down below to dry out and get warm!  Henk messaged again to say that he had reached Deluz and had decided to stay overnight and catch us up tomorrow - it was not a good day for a long cruise!!
Besancon is a university city and is always buzzing with young people......indeed it seemed to be freshers week, as in the U.K.  There was the sound of music (well, a deep base throb of something like music) a little way from us and as the evening went on crowds of students made their way towards the sound.
We decided on a night in as the weather was not conducive to wandering around town.  Skip cooked our last steaks for dinner.......delicious, we’ll done Skip!  Later in the evening, as we were watching TV, groups of students returned to the town, a lot of them carrying red torches.  They seemed to have had a good time and were in high spirits.....a good time was had by all, we think!

17 km 3 locks (1 double) 2 1/2 hours

Wednesday 25th September - Beaume-les-Dames to Deluz

We woke to a grey soggy morning and a very wet deck.....summer is definitely over!   Henk decided to stay on another night as he hoped to meet up with his friends so we left just before 10 a.m.
With the hope of no more rain wet set off on a fairly difficult trip as the river was full of sandbanks - to be avoided at all costs!  For several stretches of water we had to slow down to avoid being grounded which made for an anxious Skip.  Our first lock was 4.2 metres and took quite a while to fill for us.
There was a very narrow shallow cut leading to our fourth lock and it wasn’t until we were near the lock that we noticed there was a boat coming up. So a difficult reverse for Skip back into wider waters - the wind didn’t help either.  The last two locks went well if a little chilly......the wind was bitingly cool.
We arrived in Deluz just before one o’clock and managed to find a space with a finger pontoon to tie off on.  We had some lunch but retired below afterwards as it was raining on and off.  The port was very quiet and although Crew saw a dog board our neighbour, no human was in sight.....maybe he’s a guard dog!!
A lazy afternoon and evening followed with Crew in the galley cooking bacon wrapped chicken.  TV was good apart from rain interference.

17 km 6 locks 2 3/4 hours

Tuesday 24th September - L’isle sur Doubs to Beaume-les-Dames

We left at 9.30 on a cool grey morning......a shame because the autumn scenery was beautiful.  The vague plan was to stop at Clerval one boat each side of a lock.  Two locks from Clerval we lost Henk!  In the lock he waved his arms at me and put five fingers up, meaning he needed time to do something but I misconstrued his wave as a ‘good morning’ wave, so we left the lock as usual.  To our dismay the lock gates closed, with him still in the lock!  He had to ascend the lock again, reverse out and start all,over again......sorry Henk!  So now we are cruising separately!!
There is technically a port in the village but we have notice of it being an unsafe mooring as there are sandbanks near the pontoon.  The ‘mooring places’ were actually landing stages for the locks and not strictly for use as overnight berths.  Also the river narrowed considerably on the pontoon we were to use after the lock, so we aborted that idea!  The official pontoon was actually sitting on a sandbank - so we moved on!!  It’s a shame for Henk as he has a friend who lives in Clerval.
It seems that there are no official stopping places apart from the landing stages, so Beaume-les-Dames it is!!
We arrived in Baumes-les-Dames at three o’clock and got settled to wait for Henk who arrived about an hour later.  We had drinks and a quick bite to eat, even though it was pretty late and decided to take a cab into town for dinner as it was raining on and off by now.
We assembled on deck for an apero and took the taxi into town at 7.30 to the Charleston restaurant wher we had eaten before with Henk.  It is a charming old fashioned establishment which serves excellent food.  The waitress greeted Henk with enthusiasm and two kisses!  Henk overwintered here three years ago and visited the restaurant many times during that time.
We had a lovely meal with excellent wines - home around 10.30 p.m.  a little TV and bed.

31 km 14 locks 5 1/2 hours

Monday 23rd September - L’isle sur Doubs

Crew woke to the sound of rain but, no matter......no clock watching this morning!  By the time Skip had given Aphrodite a good clean outside and Crew had put some washing on, we thought we would go into town.  It was market day but unfortunately, they were closing down so only a few stalls left.  Crew still managed to buy a silk flower arrangement for the boat.  The bar we had been to before was closed and another establishment which Skip thought might be a restaurant was just a rather shabby bar, so we decided to go to the supermarket - a fairly large  Intermarche.  On the way back, we went to look at a restaurant just across the bridge, which was serving a simple two course menu plus wine for €15.  One of the choices was Moules Mariniere....one of our favourites!  So us and our shopping settled ourselves in the busy little cafe, looking forward to our first moules this year.  We guessed that  some of the clientele were market people, so there was a lot of loud banter going on - good atmosphere!  There was a slightly more upmarket restaurant attached to the cafe but we were happy with our choice.
Henk arrived shortly after we returned to the boat and, after getting settled came over for a beer and we chatted for a while.  Crew optimistically hung the washing out - the weather has been very changeable today, with dark clouds threatening every now and again but, luckily no rain.
The usual rest and then lazy evening in front of the TV - Skips’ favourite Only Connect on tonight.  Don’t understand it......can’t answer any of the questions!!!!

Sunday 22 nd September - Montbeliard to L’isle sur Doubs

We woke to very different weather - grey skies and indeed, a bit of rain around 8 a.m.  We decided on a 9.30 departure time but unfortunately, Henk was unwell, so we decided to go on ahead.
We are now working our movements out to try and avoid cruising in the rain as the weather forecast is not too good for the next few days.  Although it was cloudy there were a few breaks in the cloud, allowing a few glimmers of sun to peek through and it definitely felt warmer without the wind.
All the locks are set against us once more alas, so we had to wait for them to fill each time.  At our second lock, a red squirrel ran across the lock gate and started to climb a tree he fancied on the other side of the lock.  Not a sight we often see in the UK.
After several locks another boat passed us coming upriver - hurrah we thought.  But our joy was short lived as only our first lock afterwards was set our way, then back to normal, waiting for them to fill.  We think it’s to do with saving water on the canal.
The last half of our locks were worked in lovely sunshine - not exactly as forecast but nevertheless very welcome and the scenery was very pretty, interspersed with quaint villages.
 We arrived in L’isle sur Doubs at 2.30 and had a planning meeting with an aperitif before a light lunch.  Henk messaged us to say that he was going to stay another night in Montbeliard and that he would join us in I’isle sur Doubs tomorrow as long as he was well enough.
The next proper stop would be Baumes-les-Dames which is over 30 km and 14 locks away and will take several hours.  The question is, can we do it in the dry, as rain is forecast on and off for the next few days.  So we decide to make a stop halfway - will decide where on the way.
Skip suggested a takeaway pizza, to which Crew quickly agreed!  The usual pizza estaurant was closed so it did mean he had to walk a bit further but well worth it......a very good pizza was enjoyed.
TV and bed......and a rest day tomorrow!!  😁

24 km 11 locks 5 hours

Saturday 21st September - Chateau Montreux to Montbeliard

We left on another sunny morning with less than a chill in the air than recently.  As we approached our third lock, we noticed a lot of cars parked on the towpath.......fishing competition!  So very slowly out of the lock to the side of the canal until we ran out of fishing poles!!  They do take their fishing very seriously obviously!
Yesterday we ascended just over forty metres but now we are descending until we reach our home base - so much easier!  It would have been quicker still if the locks had been in our favour.  However, not so, we had to wait for them all to fill.
We arrived in Montbeliard around 1.30 p.m., surprised to find the port fairly empty.  For some reason, Skip decided on going front in on a small finger pontoon.  A young man bravely tried to help us moor but we decided (after some strong words from Crew!) to find a more spacious berth.  We went comfortably alongside a main pontoon - not sure why we didn’t do that in the first place,  onsidering the amount of available space!!
It was a beautiful sunny day but again, with a fair breeze blowing, so we just put the sun screens up to shield us from sun and wind.  Then a smoked salmon lunch with Henk.  We all decided not to go out for dinner again - just an easy supper for us all.
TV reception was very good but alas, no decent programmes to watch really....Saturday night!!  A shame we are not fans of Strictly Come Dancing!

21 km 11 locks 4 hours

Friday 20th September - Dannemarie to Montreux-Chateau

We left the mooring at 9.30 again - another sunny but chilly morning, thankfully, the wind had lessened - still a chilly north easterly though!  Today is to be our last day of going uphill but with fifteen locks very close to each other, promises to be a bit tough going!
We had a new lady lock keeper who, with two male colleagues, enjoyed a lot of cheerful banter lockside - even Skip joined in with his schoolboy French!  A very jolly crowd.
We very soon got into a rhythm and the lady keeper was brilliant, taking all our lines and running backwards and forwards to operate the locks.......we got through all fifteen locks in two and a half hours!!!   Must be a record!
Another 45 minutes saw us tied up in Montreux - a nice peaceful little port.  A little apero and then some lunch.....still on deck, even though the wind was chilly.  We can give ourselves some protection with our canopy plus added back and side protection, so we can still be quite comfortable on deck.
There is a large peniche restaurant moored here and, although we have visited Montreux twice before, we have never managed to eat there but this time, it seems it is open for dinner!  So Skip went over and booked us a table.
The usual routine followed - siesta, shower, apero on deck, then dinner.  The restaurant down below on the peniche is quite spacious and quite pleasant.  There was only one waitress and quite a few customers - she was efficient without being over friendly.  Skip had a very unusual steak tartare with tomatoes, onions and cheese.....a different experience but all in all, he preferred the usual recipe.  Henk and Crew had a very good piece of duck as a main course but Crew was unable to do it justice, having had a starter, so asked to take it away, which she subsequently left on the table!!  What a waste!
Back to the boats, TV and bed.

10 km 15 locks 3 1/2 hours

Thursday 19th September - Heidwiller to Dannemarie

Our lady lock keeper arrived at the mooring at 9.30 - our pre-arranged time of departure but we had to give Henk a shout as he had not yet been on deck.  As we progressed through our dozen locks of the day, it was clear that the keeper had maybe had a change of heart, as she was no longer helping with Henks’ rope or indeed, having happy chats with him.  Yesterday she wanted to join him on his boat....not quite sure what has happened here!!

We have quite a few locks today - double figures!  As you know, Crew likes double figures but only in the mornings....not locks!!  Needs must though. We were blessed with sunny weather but with a biting north easterly wind, which gradually increased as the day went on.  We had to stop for lunch for an hour and a half as there was a boat coming downstream.
We arrived in Dannemarie just after 2.30 and were directed to two berths, one on a finger pontoon and one alongside.  We decided on going front in on the finger which Skip managed very well....it was just going to be a lot of fiddling with ropes to get us straightened up so the man helping us suggested that maybe we would be better alongside the main quay.  We agreed to move - wrong decision!!   The wind was so strong by now that we had a brush with a cruiser and managed to scrape some paint off by having contact with his anchor.......merde!!!!  We finally managed to tie off in very gusty conditions.
We had a drink and a very light lunch with the idea of going for dinner in the evening but, come the hour, Skip was not feeling up to it really as he had a gum infection which was giving him trouble on and off.  So Henk went off and had a very good meal at the Auberge de Leonard and Crew cook a Spaghetti  Bolognaise.
TV and bed.

10 km 12 locks 5 hours

10 km 12 locks 5 hours

Wednesday 18th September - Mulhouse to Heidwiller

We left at 9.30 on a sunny but cool morning.  Now we are back to the normal French locks and have a few chains of locks in the next few days......all ascending and assisted by lock keepers.  This is nice but we prefer having a remote control as we can move when we want to and don’t have to stop for lunch.
We had a very nice lady keeper, who took our ropes for us to begin with but she got talking to Henk and obviously took a shine to him.  After that she only took his rope!!!   She saw us through both the locks and two lifting bridges.
Unfortunately we didn’t quite make our destination by lunch time so we did indeed stop for lunch en route - just two locks to go.
As there are not many stopping places on this stretch of the canal, we just moored on some bollards  near the village of Heidwiller, which was very peaceful.  It’s good to stop in such places sometimes, away from the hustle and bustle of a town or village.
There was, according to our lock keeper, a good restaurant in the village but it was a bit of a walk and   when we googled it, it was closed on a Wednesday, of course!  So Crew marinaded the big prawns that we had bought in Mulhouse and made a potato and fennel gratin and some veg......not too shabby!
Some TV and bed.

13 km 11 locks 5 hours

Tuesday 17th September - Mulhouse

A two night stop here in Mulhouse, so a lovely lie in for Crew!!  Skip made a couple of trips to the nearby supermarket, while Crew put the washing on.  We needed to fill with water too which was not too easy as we were a long way from the source and needed an adaptor for the hose....Skip got it done though!
We were last here on our Wedding Anniversary and had a lovely lunch in Il Citoile and considered re-visiting today but decided that it was a special occasion kind of place and we would go a bit more casual.  So Skip researched a Lebanese restaurant which had good reviews on Trip Advisor and the three of us made for it just before one o’clock.  When we arrived we realised that we had eaten there before, quite some years ago but neither of us can remember whether or not it was Lebanese then.  Henk and Crew had a very tasty lamb kebab and Skip a spicy minced lamb dish, all washed down with a very good Lebanese red wine. We had a little digestif on board before retiring for a siesta.  Then, after sorting out the washing, an evening of TV again.......a nice rest day!

Monday Monday 16th September - Kembs to Mulhouse

The plan was to leave around 11 a.m. as we had a short days’ cruising ahead of us.  However when Skip phoned the Capitaine at Mulhouse to ensure berths for us, he had to ask him for the phone number of the lock keeper.  We have to ask for a time to lock through, enabling us to reach Mulhouse.   The keeper informed us that we could only go through from 4 p.m. - so a very late departure for us!

We had a light lunch on board before departure and left the port at 2 p.m.......now very hot but with a nice breeze, 30c!!  We arrived at the lock before 4 o’clock but the keeper was already there and we locked through fairly quickly.  A 2 km run into Mulhouse saw us greeted by the Capitaine and tied up by 4.30 p.m.
Before we have always been moored on the pontoons here but this time we were directed alongside where passenger boats normally moor.  This was fine except that there is no security gate, so we decided to empty our top deck fridge of all alcohol before bedtime.......a bit of a nuisance really but needs must!
We decided on a lazy evening and to go out for a nice lunch tomorrow so we just had an easy supper, watched TV and bed.

17 km 1 lock 2 1/2 hours

Sunday 15th September - Breisach to Kembs

We agreed to try and start at 8 a.m. as we had a long day ahead but it was 8.30 a.m. in the end on another lovely sunny morning.  Our first lock was not far and when we got back on the river, we came across two barges making for the lock too.  Luckily the second barge went alongside the first one, so there was plenty of room for us to tie off behind them.  These big locks are run by the French company EDF and we now have floating bollards to take us up the lock, meaning that we just have to tie off and let the bollard do the work.  We sat in the lock waiting for what seemed like an age before it started filling.  There was another big barge in the smaller lock going downriver so we think the keeper was juggling the water levels.

I am incorrectly calling this a river, as its’ proper name is the Grand canal d’Alsace and indeed it is like a canal, only much wider.  There is no scenery to speak of - no villages even to break the monotony......not so good for such a long days’ cruising!
The commercial barges went ahead of us fairly quickly so we were surprised that they waited for us in our second lock.  We tucked in behind them as before.  Not such luck for our next lock - one of the barges had stopped for unloading so the other one went on without us, so we hung around for quite a long time.  When, eventually we got into the lock, we waited more until a fast speed boat came racing up to join us......still we waited!!  So this lock took one and a quarter hours to go up - and no floating bollards on this one!
Our final lock of the day was much smaller, then three slow km to the little port of Kembs, arriving around 4.30 p.m......a very long hot day!!
As it was so late, we didn’t bother with lunch but just had a couple of beers and arranged to meet up for a drink before dinner.  Skip phoned the restaurant, Petit Kemps, at six o’clock and booked us a table for 7.30.  We had a very good meal, if a little expensive, on our way downriver, so we’re looking forward to it, even though we were all very tired.
And indeed, it was excellent - we all had the menu du jour at €45 for three courses, then back to the boats for an early night.

45 km 4 locks 8 hours

Saturday 14th September - Breisach

A well deserved rest day today - although that means changing the bed and doing a wash for Crew and Skip cleaning the outside of the boat.
This whole weekend is a celebration in Breisach, dedicated to partying.  In the clubhouse the bar is open and during the day there is water ski-ing and wake boarding - in the evening a barbecue and music.  There were also various events in town too so we decided to have a wander round just before midday.  We watched a young man walking the tightrope......haven’t seen that for a while.  There was also a high wire on which motorbikes were to ride but unfortunately, we missed that.  We found a nice little restaurant for some lunch.  There was only one waitress and it became very busy - we both felt very sorry for her but she was super efficient and managed to keep people fed and watered.  We both had a flammenkuchen, which is a kind of very thin pizza but with a creme fraiche base instead of cheese...very nice.  On the way back to the boat we stopped off at the clubhouse and watched some  ski-ing and boarding - an enjoyable morning!
Henk, meanwhile had made several trips to a service station on his bike to collect fuel - in all 140 litres.
We stayed up top for quite a while, listening to the music over at the clubhouse and watching the most incredibly red sunset - then below for some TV and bed....a lovely day.

Friday 13th September - Lahr to Breisach

We managed to leave just after 9.30 a.m. on another beautiful morning, with hardly a cloud in sight.  We sailed through our first lock with no trouble but the second one was a different story.  There were two locks as usual - one for the commercial barges and one for pleasure craft but it looked as if there was some work being done on the small lock, as the gates were open but we had two red lights.  So as we waited for the big lock a barge appeared behind us.  When the lock gates opened, two barges and a cruiser exited, then our barge entered.  Our turn to slip in behind him, which we did but then waited further........another cruiser materialised!  All in all this lock has taken an hour an a half to pass through!!
This is not the best part of the Rhine valley - the river has the same characteristics of a canal but obviously wider and with no towns or villages to pass by, makes for fairly boring cruising.  Needs must however if we are to get back to St. Jean de Losne for the winter!

We arrived in the marina just before four o’clock - could have been worse I suppose but it felt like a long day......even Henk’s not getting any younger!!!!
Beers were completely necessary as the temperature had risen to around 26c but we decided against lunch, in favour of an early dinner.
So after a quick apero we made our way into town and decided to dine where we ate here before - the Saigon restaurant.  We had a mixed starter between us and, being hungry, demolished it in no time.  We all ordered duck as a main course but when it came, it was such a large portion that Crew quickly flagged and in the end asked for a doggy bag......this is getting to be a habit!!  Typically, for September, it was getting quite cool by the time we walked back to the boats, so a bit of TV and bed.

42 km 2 locks 6 hours

Thursday 12 th September - Kehl to Lahr

We left Kehl just before 10 a.m. under a sunny sky.  We are back in big lock country now which is easier but could involve some waiting time, so there’s no knowing how long our trip would take.  The current is running at around 4 kph but of course, against us now so we are just making about 8 kph overall - very different to our 20 kph downriver!!
Our first lock was very quick and easy with just us in the huge lock but we had to wait quite a while for our second.  The current has now reduced so we are making much better speed, now making an average of 11 kph.
We arrived in Lahr around two o’clock, very thirsty as it was a beautiful sunny day, so a couple of beers before lunch.
There is a restaurant here on a big barge, where we ate enormous steaks when we were here before but unfortunately it is closed on a Thursday.....our usual luck!!  It was decided therefore that Henk would cook three steaks he had bought and we would provide salad and potatoes.  The steaks were very tasty - happy crew!!
Henk went back to his boat pretty early and we watched Beecham House - a series we had missed at home.......not that impressed so far!

25 km 2 locks 4 hours

Wednesday 11th September - Kehl

It wasn’t the plan but when Crew didn’t wake until 9.30, in a panic, Skip said it had been decided between him and Henk that we would stay another night here.  Phew.......relief!  And the restaurant is very nice here too, so a good lunch is in order!
Skip cleaned the outside of the boat and the galley and Crew cleaned some windows in an effort to get a bit more shipshape and then we rewarded ourselves with the most delicious lunch we’ve had in Germany.  The restaurant was quite full when we arrived about 12.45 and only two waitresses on duty, so they were a bit rushed but very efficient nonetheless.  Skip had a mixed fish dish which he declared excellent, Crew had chicken which was very well cooked and Henk had a beef carpaccio which he enjoyed - he even ate all of the rocket that was served with it!!!  The men followed up with the beautiful looking - and tasting, cafe gourmand and Crew finally got to enjoy three scoops of delicious ice cream......mmmm!!
A fairly long reviving siesta followed and a lazy evening with the TV, which miraculously had decided to work.  A good rest day!

Tuesday 10th September - Waltenheim to Kehl

OK - back to the Rhine and Germany today!  As we were in the middle of a chain of locks, Henk went back a little way to see if he could trigger the lock mechanism.  There was a boat in the lock so we should be OK but it doesn’t seem to work that way.  The boat locked through but we still had a red light - indeed, the gates closed against us.  So Skip had to go to the control hut and ask a VNF man to set the lock for us.  Usually there is some kind of problem with our first lock of the day but subsequently things go generally well.
We had a problem with our penultimate small lock - the gates wouldn’t open when we had locked down, so Skip tried to call them without success.  The next option is to phone but no answers were forthcoming either.  Just as Crew was thinking that the lock house had a VNF van outside and so, maybe, a VNF person would live there, Henk got off his boat and knocked on the door.  A very nice lady answered and obligingly appeared with a bunch of keys to help out, even though it was her day off!  So away we went again.
We then passed the alternative European Parliament and Court of Justice buildings.
So one more small lock on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin and then
a large one, allowing us to lock onto the mighty Rhine river once more but this time, against the current, so not such good progress for the next few days!
We arrived in Kehl about 2 p.m. and got settled, albeit without any electricity.   The Capitainerie operates from the restaurant, which is closed on Tuesdays, so dues could not be paid, nor power obtained.
After lunch the men went to the supermarket but Crew was prevented from having a siesta as she had to be available to admit Henk back through the security gate.  We were unable to get the code for the gate as nobody was in the restaurant to tell us what it was.  Crew had a bash at a bit of sunbathing instead, although that was short lived.......even though it was sunny, the wind was a bit chilly.  Not that brave!!
Henk went shopping on his electric bike to transport the heavy items, whilst Skip brought the rest.
The supermarket here is large and good, so they came back with steak and lamb chops as well as many other goodies of course!  We decided on lamb for a change - hardly ever see it on menus in Germany and not that much in France either.  Henk offered to barbecue it for us all - we would provide potatoes and vegetables.  Although the timing went a bit awry, we all enjoyed a good dinner.
No TV at all (we are opposite a mast of some sort) so a couple of episodes of The Crown before bed.

23 km. 8 locks 4 hours

Monday 9th September - Saverne to Waltenheim-sur-Zorn

All crew were ready at 9.30 so we left the port with a very chilly wind accompanying us but with a promise of some sunshine to come.  There was a boat in front of us at our first lock so we had to wait until he went down.  The following locks should be better timed though so, no panic!  Indeed, all but one lock behaved well and we arrived in Waltenheim around three o’clock.  There were two possibilities to moor - one before the lock and one after.  Crew recognised the spot before the lock....we had moored there before, so we tied off loosely and Skip went to see if the other mooring was better.  It wasn’t, so we tied off securely and Henk came in behind us.
Another late lunch on deck as although the wind was still a bit chilly the sun was shining, so we were quite comfortable.
The only possible restaurant was closed (Monday!) so we decided to dine on board.  Henk had not managed his kidneys yesterday lunchtime, so they packed them up for him, along with the fried potatoes he had, so he had another meal, ready cooked!  Crew cooked sausages and onion gravy with some veg.
Some TV and not too late to bed.

21 km 12 locks 5 hours

Sunday 8th September - Saverne

Another cold grey day with some rain on and off.  In fact it had rained for most of the night we think as the boat was very wet.  We had decided to treat ourselves to lunch out, even though Saverne is quite an expensive town for eating.  So at 12.15 (after the Archers Omnibus!), we walked into town and decided on a Logis hotel, Hotel Jean, having looked at the menu.

The food and service was excellent, with good carafe wines to accompany the food.  A bit on the expensive side but you do get what you pay for!  We walked to the main square afterwards for a coffee and brandy with the weather a little improved.  I think we had the best window, weather wise as shortly after we got back to Aphrodite, the rain started again and continued throughout the evening.

Skip had cleaned the main cabin before lunch, so Crew gave the aft cabin a good clean, after a short siesta.  

The TV reception was pretty good but the on and off rain interfered somewhat - even so we managed to watch Lewis before bed.

Saturday 7th September - Lutzelbourg to Saverne

We woke to a chilly grey morning, indeed it rained for a while, so waterproofs were the order of the day.  We left around ten o’clock and got to our first lock just after 10.   However, it wasn’t playing ball again and we had to tie off and call the VNF - the mechanism was triggered by them remotely, so we got through eventually.  The next locks were fine however, and we fairly quickly arrived at our final lock into Saverne, which took a bit longer as it was double the depth than all the others.
We were greeted by the young Capitaine just as we were making for a nice long outside pontoon.  He was loth to let us moor there as he said it was for longer boats but relented in the end and said that Henk could moor on a short finger pontoon next to us.  However as Henk has to moor front in (he has a dinghy on davits) the finger was too short for him to get off the boat.  So he rafted up alongside us, which was fine.
A much earlier lunch for us today, then Skip went shopping and a fairly long siesta!  We are all feeling the lack of rest days, so we looked forward to spending two days in the lovely town of Saverne.
We had some serious cleaning to do (and a bit of self maintenance for Crew!) but decided to have a lazy day and tackle the cleaning tomorrow.
Crew glazed a ham hock that we bought and had new potatoes and veg. with it....very tasty!  We had TV reception with a bit of manoeuvring of the mast, so watched a bit, then bed.

10 km 9 locks 3 hours

Friday 6th September - Port du Houillon to Lutzelbourg

We left at 9.30 as we had a busy day today - a long stretch without locks to start with, then two tunnels (one almost two and a half kilometres long!), the inclined plane at Arzviller and to finish, four locks.  We have used the Arzviller plane twice before but both times going up - this time we are descending though.....exciting!  And it will be Henks’ first time.
It was a bright but very chilly morning - definitely autumn now - so long trousers and sweaters required.
We arrived at our first small tunnel at midday and passed quickly through, then for the big one!  It takes about half an hour to pass through but we managed in a bit less - then for the inclined plane.
It was great to look down on the waiting area for the lift with its’ high trees surrounding it - good for photos, although am afraid that Crews’ pictures didn’t come out very well!
We are descending the locks now, which should be easy.  Our problems started however when we approached our first lock!  Two boats were entering the lock as we arrived, going our way and a large hire boat was also waiting in front of us.  The two boats went down and the hire boat thought he could then proceed but the light stayed red and indeed, the gates closed and the lock emptied, allowing another boat to come up.  Finally the hire boat went in and locked through.  We then had to wait until the lock filled so that we could descend........but it didn’t so we had to call the VNF before we could go down - all this took over an hour!!!   Maddening!
All in all, we should have arrived around two o’clock but didn’t tie up until 3.30 p.m.  There is a choice of three moorings in Lutzelbourg - we took the middle one but it was not ideal as there was a very low concrete shelf, meaning we had to lower our fenders into the water.  Not ideal!
Another late lunch and then Skip and Crew went into town for a bit of shopping.  There was no supermarket as such but a charming little deli, so we couldn’t get everything on our list but we did buy an interesting piece of cheese, having been given a taste of it and managed to strike a few things from our list.  On the way back, Skip booked a table for us in a nearby hotel, which seemed to be the only option for dinner.  He asked for a table at 7.30 and was told ‘No later’.
We duly arrived at the proper time, only to find several other people arriving after us!!  The food was passable but no more and quite expensive, if a bit showy!
All of us quite tired as we haven’t had a rest day for a while, so fairly early to bed, after a bit of TV.

34 km 4 locks 6 hours

Thursday 5th September - Mittersheim to Port du Houillon

A much cooler morning greeted us today.  The plan was to depart at 9.30 but two hire boats passed going our way so we ended up not leaving until just after 10.  The first lock went OK but we had a problem with our second - the gates just wouldn’t open, even though the lock was empty.  So we decided we had to turn around and operate the zapper again.  As we were going back, of course, we met Henk, so now we are cruising together, which is more difficult and takes more time......ah well, plan B again!
We had small gaps between locks for the first five and then we had seven locks in a row, one after the other.  As we now had to be at the very front of the locks, we took the full force of the water gushing out, which made for an uncomfortable time.  We have, of course, done series of locks like this before but we now realise that age has weakened us somewhat and it is not so much fun now!!  However, in order to get anywhere, the job has to be done.......we will just have to try and get more rest!  As, tomorrow, we change Canal to the Marne-au-Rhin, we had to give in our remote controls in our last lock.
We arrived at the port, also a Canalous base, just before 3 p.m., all feeling quite tired.  So yet another late lunch.  Crew was not feeling too good so when the men had finished lunch, went below to rest.  As we are in the wilds of nowhere, there was no restaurant available, so we just finished the day on board with the TV.   Crew defrosted the left over Chilli con Carne and baked some potatoes for supper.

18 km 13 locks 5 hours

Wednesday 4th September - Harskirchen to Mittersheim

We left at 9.30, Henk to follow 20-30 minutes later.  Another beautiful morning but quite cool when cruising along the tree lined canal.  We managed the locks with ease and arrived in Mittersheim before midday.  The idea was to be in time for lunch for a change in order to make good use of the good weather.
We helped Henk in about half an hour later and then went off to the restaurant, him joining us after having getting himself organised, in case we needed to be in the restaurant by 12.30 p.m. - French style!  At this time of year, it is so pleasant to eat in the sunshine - if we dine out, it gets pretty cool, so sweaters or jackets have to be taken along.  We had the choice of four three course menus, ranging in price from €13 to €25.......and very good it was too.
We all chatted to a couple on the cruiser Thousand Rivers, who we have met before.  They were a bit stuck here for a while as there had been an accident in one of the locks, where a car had driven into the lock, so a closure was definitely on the cards. They are travelling in the opposite direction to us, so we passed through that lock only yesterday.  Not so good for them but we are a bit time stretched now as we are returning to St. Jean de Losne the long way round and we don’t have too many spare days available, so we were lucky!
Not quite sure exactly how a car drives into a lock!!!  They were going over to the nearby bar for drinks at 4 p.m. (funny time for drinks).  We decided on a siesta instead but Henk joined them for a while.  We just relaxed on Aphrodite, showered and watched TV, which we managed to get after a lot of fiddling about and a re-boot.  Lovely day!

14km 4 locks 2 1/4 hours


14 km 2 locks 2 1/4 hours

Tuesday 3rd September - Sarreguemines to Harskirschen

We were, in the event, very glad that we moved the alcohol below as, this morning Skip discovered that a bottle had been aimed at the boat, finding our portside bollard and making a terrible mess - broken glass everywhere.  In fact, it hit the same bollard as someone hit in Besancon some years ago with a beer bottle.....must be a French thing!!
We decided to travel separately as it goes much quicker alone in the locks - we did this successfully on the Doubs, so thought it a good idea.  Or it would have been if a German couple hadn’t followed us in.  However, they moored up just after the lock - we thought to visit a supermarket.  That had been in our thoughts but we missed it, not being able to see a supermarket, so we cruised on alone.
We have 10 locks today.....a novelty for us on this trip!  But they are very quick and easy.
Quite a few cruisers have passed us, luckily in the opposite direction, so most of the locks are ready for us, making everything smooth and easy.  It’s very pleasant in the sunshine cruising along at 8 kph, saying ‘bonjour’ to passing walkers, cyclists and joggers.  We are enjoying temperatures of around 23-24c with a bit of a breeze - perfect early autumn weather.
You may notice that the blog is a little more verbose than recently - Skip went into town and furnished Crew with a SIM card for her old I-Pad so am able to touch type again.
We didn’t arrive at the small port until almost four o’clock, so lunch was very late!
Around 7.30 one of the campers came over and asked if we would like to take wine with them, so we took our two chairs, wine and glasses over to join them - Henk didn’t come as he was tired.  They were all German speaking but all spoke English.  Our neighbour on a 100 year old boat, which had belonged to his parents was present with his little dog too.  We only stayed an hour or so as it got quite cool and we suspect these camping people go to bed early.
So back to the boat to finish the wine and watch a DVD - not a spark from the TV here!!

30 km 10 locks 5 1/2 hours

Monday 2nd September - Saarbrucken to Sarreguemines

We left at 10 a.m., another boat having left about an hour before, thinking that he had plenty of time to get through the lock.  But we had quite a wait when we arrived as the other boat was still in the lock.  The lock just fitted us in and Although the lock only had a rise of 2.4 m it was very slow.  However, at the next lock we picked up remote controls, which were dropped from a machine - much like a vending machine.

The river narrowed so much that it was like the French canals we know so well and a certain amount of weed was noticed - note to Skip........clear the filter each day from now on!!  The feel of the river is now, all of a sudden, much more French - funnily we all feel more at home, after our big German adventure.  Having said that, we thoroughly enjoyed the scenery of the lower Rhine and especially the Mosel, with more vineyards and castles than we could ever imagine!
We arrived just around 1 p.m. and settled on a lovely new pontoon, with Henk mooring behind us.  The pontoon had a security gate with notice on it to sat that the Capitainerie was not open until 3 p.m so we had lunch before going over there to pay our dues.  On the way, we stopped to look at the nearby Casino Bistros’ menu and all became quite excited at the offerings - no more wurst and schnitzels!!   We had all facilities, including wifi for the princely sum of €15.40......so much cheaper than Germany.
Some people were playing boules nearby and some young lads later started a fire in the barbecue near us.  In the early evening, they broke out the beers, whilst keeping the fire going by finding dead wood with which to feed it - Henk also contributed a couple of planks that he no longer had use for.
At six o’clock Skip went over to the Restaurant to book a table for dinner.  We met on deck at 7 o’clock for drinks, then over for dinner just before 8, passing the group of young lads who had been joined by some older men and were eating the burgers they had cooked and getting quite ‘merry’. As a precaution we emptied our drinks fridge on the back deck of everything alcoholic as, although there was a security gate, it was quite possible that the youngsters could still manage to reach us - better safe than sorry.  They were still partying on our return but we said our goodnights and retired to our boats.
No TV here, so we finished watching Poldark on DVD and bed.

15 km 4 locks 3 hours

Sunday 1st September - Dillingen to Saarbrucken

We left port before 10 a..m. surprisingly as the heat of  yesterday had zapped us somewhat.  We were waved goodbye by the boaters in the marina- nice people!  The weather was much cooler, therefore much more comfortable.
We had a good run with just two locks which, although their drop was much less than the previous ones, were much slower than the big ones.  The scenery was also much more industrial than before as we headed for the industrial town of Saarbrucken, famous for  its' coal and steel production.
The marina we arrived at was quite a way out of town but with plenty of space for guests.
We lunched on smoked salmon and discussed our future cruise - we are now into the more familiar territory of small locks and plentiful too, along with lunchtime closures when manned.
Skip had a nice siesta whilst Crew prepared dinner.  Later, Henk went over to the nearby Burger King  to try and find something to eat, it being the only place open on a Sunday evening.  He came back with chicken wings, which he was surprised that he enjoyed very much.  We dined on Chilli con Carne, then watched some TV and bed.

34 km 2 locks 4 hours