Thursday 30 th June - Capestang to Colombiers

Neil didn't arrive on board until about 10.30 so by the time he fitted the new pump, it was midday......a little worrying because we had booked a table for us and Henk at 12.45 in the delectable restaurant, La Tour Sarrasine in Poilhes, halfway between Capestang and Colombiers.  We all had a prawn cocktail with citrus fruits - which sounds odd but worked really well on such a hot day (reaching temperatures of over 30 degrees now!).  The quality of the food was excellent.
We arrived in Colombiers just after 3 p.m. and moored stern to near where we were last year.  Unfortunately the water level had been reduced in the port as rain had been expected, which didn't arrive, which made our stern have to plough through the mud to get tied off!
We arranged with Henk to go for a beer or two at  6 p.m. - then a lazy evening on a wonderfully cooling back deck........hard work, this living!!

13 km. 1 1/2 hours (excluding lunch!)

Wednesday 29th June - Capestang

Neil, from the ports' engineering company arrived with another Brit around 9.30 with our new impeller and got it fitted and checked the heat exchanger and hoses for any debris left by our old impeller, since it was shredded to bits!  The bilge pump was inspected and declared dead so Neil said he would order a new one and fit it tomorrow - the radio (which just stopped working about 5 days ago) needed some sort of gizmo to remove it........he would have a go at that for us too.  Crew is badly missing her CDs!!
A light lunch and a lazy afternoon on board followed and we invited Arthur and Henk over for drinks before 7 p.m. as we were going into town to find a restaurant which Arthur remembered from a previous visit.  Arthur seems to have his own built in radar system as we found the restaurant easily.  As we approached Skip and Crew realised that they had also been there before - it's a Cave where wine can be tasted and purchased and the tables are set out in a very pretty courtyard.  The food was certainly not bad but a bit average - it didn't stop us from having a good time though!!  Henk had been given a bottle of port, so eschewing desserts we repaired to Aphrodite for cheese and port.
As Arthur was nipping down to Antibes for a week (little old jet setter that he is!) we wouldn't be seeing him until our return so it was a very enjoyable evening for us to say 'au revoir'

Tuesday 28th June - Capestang

Yesterday Skip arranged for an engineer to come and fit a brand new impeller for us and ask him about our bilge pump and radio (the pump was shorting out and the radio just suddenly stopped working about 5 days ago for some reason).  Franz came over and said he could do it but that we should ask the franchisee at the port first - if they couldn't do it then he would be happy to oblige.
We asked Henk if he wanted to walk into town with us for a cold beer........silly to ask really!!  He was across the bridge and joining us in no time!  We had a couple of thirst quenching beers in the shade in a bar/ restaurant in the square - then, somehow Arthur turned up to join us.  We decided to take lunch there as well, although Arthur declined - he had some shopping to do.
It has felt so much hotter for the last couple of days due to the fact that the pretty heavy wind had died down to practically nothing that a siesta is a necessity!  Then around 7 o'clock we were invited over to Arthurs' boat for drinks.  As he had no white or rose wine, we bought three bottles of dry Muscat which was being sold at a wine tasting near Arthurs' boat - before we knew it, it was 10 o'clock so we thought it polite to take our leave and head back.

Monday 27th June - Le Somail to Capestang

We didn't leave port until 10.30 what with one thing and another.  A large hotel boat came to moor right behind us.......very slowly!  And then Skip dropped the rubber seal for the filter into the bilge, which involved taking up the saloon floor to retrieve it!  He even had Crew in the engine room to help!  Skip finally found it and off we went.
Now that we have no locks the cruising is easy with time to enjoy the surrounding countryside which is very beautiful with plenty of vines and even the occasional olive grove.  A little more shade would have been appreciated as we had temperatures of 30 degrees or more but given the fact that so many of the Canal du Midi plane trees were chopped down because of disease there were long stretches of canal without shade.  New trees are thriving in some parts but they are obviously not yet quite grown enough!
We arrived in Capestang around 1.30 but had to moor right out of town - there are normally plenty of places but thanks to long stretches of quay being reserved.......mostly for hotel boats...... the  port was full.  We had some lunch then Skip walked to town for some shopping about 3 o'clock.  On the way back he noticed a couple of spaces had been freed up so suggested we move quickly.  By the time we got there, only one space was still free.  Henk took that space and we looked for somewhere else back under the bridge - I believe that Capestang bridge is the lowest on the canal.  Unfortunately being hot and tired we forgot about the canopy and we were both shocked when we heard a ghastly clattering of canvas and metal against stone!!  We managed to tie off next to a very nice English man on a barge to inspect the damage.  Henk had seen the debacle and came over to see if he could help - indeed he could!  One of the fixing straps had been pulled right off the canopy strap and he used his well-honed sailing skills by tying it back in place.......the re-sewing would have to wait until later.  A professional job!!
About 6.30 another place became available opposite the Capitainerie so we moved for the third time! Crew cooked a couple of steaks with stuffed jacket potatoes and ratatouille which we shared with Henk.  Then at 9 p.m. Skip went to watch Englands' humiliating defeat against Iceland!  A couple of digestifs to drown our sorrows then bed.......despite no locks a fairly labour intensive and emotional day!!

22 km. 3 hours

Sunday 26th June - Homps to Le Somail

As Skips' Orange SIM card had run out Arthur came over to try and renew it with his French bank card.  Unfortunately, for some reason, it didn't work so other arrangements have to be made.  We left Homps just after 10 a.m. as usual. It took an hour to travel one kilometre and go through one lock!  Then a double which took an age, locking down with a South African family on a hire boat.  After our final lock of the day, we had a 14 km run into Le Somail.  Not only was it our last of the day but the last lock for 50 kilometres - nice easy cruising!  We arrived in the pretty little port around 4 p.m. to be helped in by David.  As soon as we were settled we repaired to the bar across the bridge for much needed refreshment.  We have visited Le Somail several times - it's a very quaint village which, of course appeals to visiting tourists.  There is an antiquarian bookshop which is larger than expected and is full of very interesting books - some are very rare editions.  A peniche is moored on the side of the canal which doubles as a shop and bread can be ordered there for the morning.
We all dined at the restaurant on the quay called L'O......short and sweet!  Unfortunately Arthur has not been able to join us as the wind is strong and his fibre glass boat is not easily manageable for a lone sailor.  Skip, Crew and Henk retired to Aphrodites' saloon for digestifs as it was still too windy to sit up top.

20 km. 6 locks. 6 hours

Saturday 25th June - Homps

At last.........a rest day, although Crew had to change the bed and put the washing machine on and Skip to clean the outside of the boat - some 'housework' needed to be done too!  At 1 p.m. We took a break and went to the bar, collecting Henk on the way, for a couple of beers.  We looked at the little restaurant next to the bar where Arthur had eaten before - the menu looked good so we decided to have dinner there.  It was indeed very good and we got chatting to athe couple on the next table, an American man and a Danish woman.  When they left we started talking to a party of eight Norwegians who were very jolly.......it made for a fun evening!
As our radio is not functioning we watched a DVD with our digestifs, then bed.

Friday 24th June - Trebes to Homps

It is very difficult to gauge what time to leave, as there are lots of hire boats on the canal and the queues at the locks can be long, so we left at our usual time of ten o'clock.  On arriving at the triple locks of Trebes we found three boats waiting - they had already waited an hour!!  So we would have to wait for them to go down and boats to come up!!  Time for Crew to get out her duster!  We didn't lock down until 11.30 - leaving the last lock at midday!  Two hours........it's going to be a long day!! We had a long stretch till the next lock and had only to wait for half an hour for lunchtime to be at an end.  It was a long, hot afternoon with eleven locks still to go but as we had one triple and three doubles, all went smoothly and we got into a rhythm with another private boat.  We arrived in Homps just after 5.30 but didn't manage to get tied off until 6.15 as mooring is always difficult there.  There is a big hire boat base but, for some reason, we are not allowed to moor there!  Very frustrating!!  A few beers then everyone to get cleaned up for dinner at 8 o'clock as it was Arthurs' 78th birthday.  skip booked the table at La Peniche restaurant, where we had eaten several times before.  We had a good Cremant Rose as an aperitif and a lovely dinner to follow, with good wines of course!  Arthur had had trouble mooring in the port so he'd moored a kilometre or so from us.  He hitched a lift to the restaurant on a boat in the lock near him - very resourceful is our Arthur!  Henk organised with the owners' son a lift back to his boat.  A good night was had by all!!

28 km. 14 locks. 8 hours

Thursday 23 rd June - Fresquel to Trebes

Henk came on board just after nine o'clock to have another go at getting the impeller back in place.  An hour and a bit later......success!  The engine was turned over and water gushed out of the side of the boat - well done my two men!!  David had passed us and offered to help but I declined and he said he would see us in Homps but we decided that it had been a tiring day previously and a short run to Trebes would be enough for the day.  The two locks were easy and we arrived in Trebes, mooring just before a bridge, very central to the town around midday.  No power available so we got settled quickly and walked across the bridge in search of sustenance.  Canal side there were two or three little restaurants to choose from, mostly fish orientated, so we picked a table in the shade and got the beers ordered.  Skip chose the menu, Crew, the Moules Mariniere (hadn't had them yet!) and Henk chose a plate of Gambas, as he was expecting friends from Holland to go for dinner in the evening.  After lunch, a siesta looked hopeful (at last!) but first David, then Arthur came over to chat.......rude not to offer a drink!!  Later, Henks' friends arrived and we went over to introduce ourselves, chatting for half an hour or so.  Back on board we had a little cheese and wine.......early night in order!!

8 km  2 locks  1 1/2 hours

Wednesday 22nd June - Carcassonne to Fresquel

Carcassonne is always difficult to depart from - not only the constant passenger boats but the hovering around waiting for the lock when there are so many moored hire boats!  That said, the mobile ones are worse......including the one that we had to deal with.  He kept going in one direction, then stopping and turning again - none of us knew what his aim was.  Thankfully we managed to get ourselves safely in the lock. We only managed one more lock before the lunchtime closing as we now had a double and a quick single to go down but several boats were coming up so we had to wait over an hour for lunchtime to be over.  Behind us came an old barge with quite a wild looking Frenchman aboard - we had seen him in Carcassonne.  When the locks were finally ready he came marching down the towpath, barking orders in a strong dialect French.......we shrugged our shoulders and splayed our hands, thinking he should understand that we didn't understand!!  We had some doubts as to whether our engine was cooling properly as there was only limited water coming out.  As we entered the double lock, it was apparent that there was a problem as the 'screamer' went off!  We struggled through the three locks and moored on the bank to investigate. Skip tried yet more clearing of the filter but to no avail, so Henk came on board to help.  In the end, it was the impeller that had failed - it was shredded to bits (boat won't function without this little bit of rubber!).  When the wild looking Frenchman on the old barge came through the locks, he was clanging a loud bell and shouting obscenities (probably), giving us a rude finger sign.  Crew thought he was saying 'travail', meaning that he was a work boat but as far as we were concerned, there was nothing to indicate that he was a work boat.......c'est la vie!!  We had tied up just the other side of the locks in a very open part of the countryside and with the wind blowing a gale!  Henk and Skip toiled for a couple of hours or so and although the old impeller had been removed, fitting the new one proved to be very difficult.  It was very hot work down in the engine room even though the floor of the saloon had been taken up, so after a while the men decided to stop and have another go in the morning.  Crew supplied a makeshift supper and we imbibed red wine and chatted.  An earlyish bedtime was the order of the day.......there was a job to finish in the morning!

4 km  5 locks  3 hours

tuesday 21st June - Bram to Carcassonne

We followed our usual morning routine and got underway just after 10 a.m.  As there were now more hire boats around we lost Henk in the first lock, whilst we had to wait with a hire boat for the next lock down.  Before the second lock of the day we at last spotted some vines - up to now it had been mostly arable, with corn and wheat grown.  Not too far from the lock we spotted Henk waiting for us under the shade of some trees......it was getting very warm by then!  We locked down with just him then went on to our next (double) lock where we waited for lunchtime to pass.  All went smoothly until our last lock - with two boats in front of us, we waited over an hour to pass through!!  The eclusier was waiting for a passenger boat to come up and since they take priority, so we had to wait too! There was a hire boat already in the lock waiting to lock up but eventually the lock keeper gave up on waiting and let them up.  Squeezing four in a lock was not ideal but we made it and arrived in Carcassonne around 4.45 p.m.  We went in stern to next to Arthur.  We settled in, Skip went over to pay at the Capitainerie and Crew took a glass of wine over to a shady bench where Henk and Arthur were having a beer.  As Skip wasn't feeling too good (he has an occasional ailment that crops up now and again) he decided to have a lie down.  

There is a National Festival of Music in France on this day as it's the summer solstice and of course, Carcassonne was no exception.  David had booked a table for us all at a nearby steak restaurant and invited us for drinks on board Rosina at 7.15.  Arthur declined to come with us for dinner but came for drinks - he had eaten steak two nights in a row!  The steak was cut in front of us and cooked on an open fire......we all had a delicious entrecôte (Black Angus beef) except Skip, who was still feeling under the weather so had a goats' cheese salad.  He decided to go back to the boat to try and sleep off his illness.  Crew and Henk hit the town in search of some good music.  The music near the port was rock and heavy metal so we were looking for something a little more 'dance friendly'.  We went up to the main square, which was rammed with people and just changing bands.  Miraculously, we found two comfortable chairs and Henk went off to find us some wine.  We didn't really find the music much to our taste so we ambled back towards the port and stopped for a nightcap at a bistro.  Arthur was painting the town red, visiting some of his old haunts.  

On checking on Skip, he was pretty fevered so Crew decided to leave him to sleep it off and boarded Cornelis k. for a last nightcap.  Arthur then returned so we all chatted for a while.......the music (which was scheduled to stop around 2 a.m.) suddenly went quiet  - relief!

24 km. 6 locks. 61/2 hours

Monday 20th June - Castelnaudary to Bram

We were waiting for a parcel to be delivered to the port - we'd had problems with our grey water pump (pumps out the nasty water, etc!) so Skip had ordered a new one to be delivered although since ordering it, the pump had behaved itself!  Compass Rose and Rosina left around 8.30.  Odile, the Capitaine came to say that Arthur had left with the plastic card that we need here to obtain power and water so Skip called Janet - it was arranged that he would post it back.  We waited until 10 o'clock for the parcel but, as it hadn't turned up Skip asked Odile to hang on to it and he would pick it up when he went to pick the car up from Moissac.  So we set off with Henk and whizzed through our first quadruple locks, then a double.  Next a triple and as we had to wait for a boat to come up we were caught up by a hire boat, making it a little slower.  Three singles after that with them too, then lunch.  They stopped after the third lock but we motored on to moor by the next, so as to be ready to go at 1.30.  There was a little boutique selling, bread, wine, honey, ice creams, etc.which furnished us with a cold beer each.  Refreshed, off we set.......just the two of us again.  We cleared our last locks of the day without incident and arrived at the port of Bram just before 4 p.m.  Mooring space was at a premium but we managed to get tied off on the opposite side of the bank to the little fish restaurant.  As it was Monday there was some doubt as to whether it would be open so Crew googled it and, sadly found that indeed it was closed on a Monday!  Was really looking forward to a fish supper....quelle domage!!  We had to share our power with a huge long stay barge, the Skipper of which was amazed at Skips' 3- way splitter.  He asked Skip to go and show it to the lady Capitaine so that she could perhaps acquire some for use at the port as the power bournes are few and far between.  We were again invited for drinks on Arthurs' boat, where we found that he had he had picked up another English man - he had started walking into town, hitching a lift when Bernard, an 81 year old (who looked about 60!) picked him up and drove him to the Post Office.  As it was the night of the England v Slovakia match, kick off at 9 p.m., we repaired to our own boats for supper.  Crew was not in the mood for cooking and as the weather had taken a turn for the better, cobbled together some salad with chicken and ham.  Henk joined us for our humble repast, then Skip went off to watch the football on Davids' boat, whilst Henk and Crew continued with the wine and chatted.  It had been a perfect day for cruising - not too hot and, at last, wonderfully sunny - as it started to cool down around 11 p.m. we decided to retire a short while after.

16 km  18 locks. 5 1/2 hours

Sunday 19th June - Castelnaudary

Needless to say, this day was going to be a very slow day!!  All crews fairly quiet - also Arthur didn't get much sleep, so he confined himself to his boat with a film!  Skip did a little light cleaning and Crew got rid of the ironing pile, albeit slowly!  A very light lunch (non alcoholic!) then we tried to Face Time the boys.  I don't think the signal was strong enough as it kept rejecting, so we phoned them instead.  They were all together at James and Clares' house having a barbeque so we got to talk a little to all three grandsons to a degree!  It seemed as if their weather was better than ours - it's still on and off sun, hopefully improving from tomorrow.......had enough of it now!!  We didn't come all down here for British weather!!
As aforementioned,  a very lazy afternoon and evening ensued and, for a change, bed before midnight!  Unfortunately, having been falling asleep on her feet all day, Crew was unable to actually get to sleep until around 2 a.m. and we have work to do tomorrow!!

Saturday 18th June - Castelnaudary

We decided to walk into town to do some shopping and have a look at the vintage cars on display in the square.  The one in the picture is a Jaguar from 1946 and lovingly restored by its' owner.  The Grand Bassin, just the other side of the bridge in front of us is the biggest port on the canal, which is now home to a Le Boat hire base.  The town is what I call shabby/chic with plenty of small shops to satisfy most people.  The picture above is of the pretty covered market......with a small market set out in front.  We stopped at a little canal side bar/restaurant for a lunchtime aperitif, albeit a little early!  Henk joined us for a bite of lunch, wine and chat.  Skip managed a small siesta but Crew didn't manage it - we were all going to the concert which started at 10 p.m. so Arthur booked us a table in a small restaurant, Au Petit Gazouillis, for 8 o'clock.  Fingers crossed for the weather as it's not too warm with occasional showers of rain.  We all gathered on Arthurs' boat for drinks at 6.30 then on to the restaurant.  Arthur was not wrong when he said the restaurant was small - it was like someone's sitting room and was absolutely full......I counted 36 covers.  Arthur had been there before and had Cassoulet (we are now in Cassoulet country!) and said it was the best one he'd had so he ordered it again.  Henk, a Cassoulet virgin, also braved it!  Janet and John had cod and Crew and David, duck, all washed down with some good wine.  We paid the bill and made our way to the square for the concert and fireworks.  Unfortunately, due to the weather they were either cancelled or postponed.  Although the rain had held off it wasn't a balmy evening by any means.  We decided on a digestif in a bar on the square, although David and Janet made their way back to their boat.  Then, foolishly we continued on Aphrodite till after 2 a.m.!!!

Friday 17th June - Castelnaudary

A very late, slow morning for Aphrodite and Cornelis k.'s crews......all this partying has to stop!!  So a quiet day was had by all crews.  We were to go out for dinner all together but nobody felt like it so Crew cobbled together a pasta dish and we watched a Michael McIntyre DVD and chatted a while.

Thursday 16th June - Le Segala to Castelnaudary

We set off again just after 10 a.m., the others having left at around 8.30.  Crew was let off the boat to set the operation going - there was a lone sailor just exiting so, after waiting a couple of minutes she pressed the 'avalant' button (we are going down now).  After waiting a while nothing was happening. A French lady walking her dog suggested that it was broken so Crew went back to Aphrodite, whereupon  it was noticed that two boats were coming up, so the conclusion was that Crew had not given it enough time after the boat left the lock.  She'll be made to walk the plank if she does it again!!  We managed the next double and triple locks before lunch time in company with a hire boat with a German couple on board.  We had wondered if the automatic single locks also closed for lunch.......apparently they do!!  We had an enforced lunch stop!  We have not seen any vines yet - it's quite arable with wheat and corn and I think some sunflowers.  Our last two locks with just us and Henk went well and we tied up in front of David, with Henk alongside us.  Castelnaudary is a very pleasant old town and Odile, the Capitaine, a lovely woman with good knowledge of boat mooring.  Skip went off to Davids' boat to watch England v Wales, leaving Crew with only half a bottle of sweet white wine (a mistake buy!) or a small amount of Ricard!!  Henk took pity on me and offered me a decent white so I joined him for a couple of glasses.  With the football match at a 1-1 draw, the TV went due to the weather - a storm was passing over!  The weather has not been as good as we'd like for the last few days......room for improvement!
The others wanted a quiet night in, so Skip, Crew and Henk went for dinner at Chez David and enjoyed a very good meal.  A couple of digestifs on Aphrodite and bed!

11 km  8 locks  5 hours

Wednesday 15 th June - Negra Lock to Le Segala

We left just after 10 and arrived at our first lock of the day (a double) in a half an hour or so.  Coming up to our second lock Skip received a phone call from David to say that there was a problem with the third lock and that boats were only being let through singly!  Happy to say that by the time we arrived  everything worked normally.  The problem at our fourth (another double) was that there were two boats waiting and it was lunchtime!  The double and triple locks are manned and Eclusiers can't work without lunch.......they are French after all!!  As it was only one o'clock and we believed that lunch was until 1.30, we tied off albeit using spikes (the other two boats were on the landing stage).  We decided on a bite of lunch since we had to let the other two through first so it would be a bit of a wait.  We got through around 2.30!

At the next lock we moored on the landing stage but they are so small that we sway around a lot, so Henk stayed back.  The same scenario as before - the two I front of us went up then a Hotel Boat came down.

  Crew walked up to the lock to check the situation as there were no lights showing.  A VNF man was operating the lock with his own gizmo.  When the Hotel Boat had passed we approached but the mean VNF man had closed the gates so Crew had to be let off with a boat hook as the lock was over 3 metres.  A very slow lock day!!
We arrived in Le Segala to the usual welcoming committee who got us secured and sitting in the nearby bar/ restaurant in no time!!  A table was booked for 7.30 p.m.  For quite a scruffy little restaurant, the food was remarkably good and the host very amenable - a good evening was had by all!

21 km 8 locks 6 1/2 hours

Tuesday 14th June - Negra Lock

The advance party set off at 8.30, whilst Aphrodite and Cornelis k. had a lie in!  Lucky for us and Henk as when Skip went to pay our dues he was told by the Capitaine (the mooring is a Locaboat Hire Base) that there was a general strike which included the eclusiers!  So we decided to stay put.  Skip called David to see where they were at.  They had managed to get through a double and a single lock before they were stopped........so tonight they would be staying in Gardouch.  Skip, Crew and Henk had a lazy day, Henk joining us for a little bite of lunch and help Crew with her new camera.  By the lock there is an inn (not operational unfortunately!), an old stable block and a small chapel, as this was a staging post for passenger boats.  At 3.30 Henk took his electric bike to Villenouvelle, a village 3 km away to buy bread and eggs - he had been there before and been successful but unfortunately, the Boulangerie was closed down and the small grocery shop was en vacances!  So no fresh bread......in France!!  We arranged to meet later and cobble together some sort of supper and spent a pleasant evening wining, dining, chatting and laughing!

Monday 13 th June Toulouse to Negra Lock

The advance party left on time at 8 o'clock with a threatening grey sky overhead.  It had rained in the night so it looked like we were all going to get wet!  Aphrodite and Cornelis k were to leave a couple of hours later but a steady rain had set in.  As it didn't look like stopping any time soon, we bit the bullet and set off.  We had a little over 10 km to travel before our first lock (almost 5 m) so lucky old Crew got to stay in the dry once underway!  As we approached we noticed  that our Swiss neighbours were in the lock waiting for us.  We moored on the opposite side and Henk came up behind us.  We were right to the front of the lock and swayed around quite a bit once the operation got underway - it took forever.....a lot of water to shift!  Our second lock was just one and a half km but only had a depth of 2.4 m - then another long stretch to the third......8 km.  We got into a routine of Skip letting Crew off to walk up to the lock and activate it.  One button to press which opens the gates - if the lock is full then first the water has to empty - then Crew has to take the lines. When everyone is safely moored another button is pressed which starts the process.  All went pretty well, apart from the rain (although, for some reason, it stopped each time we were in the locks - someone must be looking over us!).  We arrived in port at 3.45 and were helped in by the others who had arrived a couple of hours earlier.  Skip, Crew and Henk were very thirsty so, after getting settled, Arthur invited us on his boat, Compass Rose for beer.  We had previously arranged to have a barbecue and we pooled our supplies, subsequently putting on a big spread.  A good time was had by all!

28 km 7 locks 5 hrs 45 mins

 Convoy of Rosina,Compass Rose,Aphrodite and Cornelis k. after Negra Lock

Sunday 12th June - Toulouse

After our first night of socialising, it was a slow start to the day even though Crew managed to get a load of washing on.  Then we decided to go and have a look at the market.  On the way, Skip discovered that his shorts were a bit loose so, first stop.....find a belt!  Crew bought some socks for her walking shoes (we are going walking in Chamonix in July - as well as some nice food and wine of course!).  We were hoping to have lunch where we lunched before by Les Halles des Graines but the little restaurant was full so we walked back to the Bistrot du Port for a salad of gravadlax and a bottle of white.  The restaurant is right next to Henks' boat Cornelus k. and since we didn't quite finish the wine we took it over and shared the residue and had a little chat about tomorrow's' arrangements.  Since we have two lone sailors, Arthur and Henk, and for the next couple of days we have twelve quite deep locks, David and Janet are going with Arthur and we are going with Henk to help take the lines.   Women's' work!!  Should be fun!  Skip managed a short siesta but Crew went below and was unable to sleep for the outside chatter - so, an early night is called for!!  A glass of red, some cheese and a DVD......then bed!

Saturday 11th June - St. Jory to Toulouse

We left just after 10 o'clock under grey skies, wet gear at the ready!  We got through two locks without trouble but when Crew twisted the dangler, two red lights appeared instead of a red, a flashing amber and a green (this tells us the lock is being prepared).  Skip walked up to use the intercom to call the VNF but found it not working.  So,back to Aphrodite to call on the mobile.  We found two different numbers but neither responded!  The other option was to walk the one and a half km back to the previous lock to summon help but Skip hit on the idea to call the port, Saint Sauveur, that we were making for in Toulouse.  The nice lady Capitaine obliged and help arrived about fifteen minutes later.  Luckily, although the VNF man didn't hang around to make sure the lock was OK, we got through all right and we got through the next three well- spaced locks with no problem.  This part of the Canal de Garonne is probably our least favourite part, becoming very industrial and still beside the railway line.  At around two o'clock we left the Garonne and joined the Canal du Midi for the run in to Toulouse.  It's a sharp turn off the Garonne and then two arched bridges to choose from.....luckily we remembered which to take. Our remaining three locks rise up in depth - the first 2.6 metres, then 4.4 and 6.2., these last two having rising poles to moor to.  We cruised into Toulouse about 3.30 and were met by a welcoming committee......our Dutch friend, Henk, David (who we met last year in Colombiers) and of course the lovely Sylvianne - the Capitaine.  Between them we were tied off in no time!  Henk had messaged me earlier to suggest that he book a table in the nearby Bistrot du Port (we have dined there before but it's now under new management).  Henk later messaged me to say that David and Janet had turned up so he booked a table for six.  The other member of the party was Arthur - he and Henk had become good friends since overwintering in Toulouse.  We had a quick bite for a very late lunch and were joined by Henk for a drink and catch up.  David invited us for drinks at 7p.m. prior to dinner then we rolled over to the restaurant right next to the port.  We all had beef in some form or another but the portions were huge!  David and Janets' dog, Pip got rather a large doggie bag!!  All, except Crew and Henk went onto Davids' boat, Rosina to watch football (England v Russia) but David had a bit of trouble tuning in to ITV but by making Janet sit in a certain position, he succeeded!  We still have no TV and can't remember when we will get it back.......come to that even how to operate the TV - it's been so long!!  Skip came back and joined Henk and Crew for a late chat until about 12.30 a.m. - then bed.....long day!

20.5 km. 9 locks  5hrs. 15mins

Friday 10th June - Montech to St. Jory

First task of the day (just for a change!) a trip to the dentist.  After a bit of form filling and a chat the dentist saw me.  Another young lady dentist and the other dentist in the practice was female too!  There seems to be a glut of lady dentists in France - we don't have a single one in our practice at home!  She managed to cement the crown back in - this time she said she used stronger cement, so fingers crossed Crew can smile again for at least a bit longer!  We managed to leave port just before 11 a.m.  One lock to pass through in ten minutes or so which was managed easily - so much better when a single occupant!  Then an 18 km run to the next.  Although the countryside is quite rural here with lots of orchards alongside the canal, the railway runs parallel, slightly spoiling the effect!  An uneventful day lock wise and we tied up in St. Jory around 3 o'clock, just as the rain was starting!  We managed to get the canopy up and have a bite of lunch (Crew eating bread minus crusts - not risking losing the dastardly crown!).  We whiled away the rest of the afternoon reading, playing games and doing puzzles but withdrew below for a supper of quiche and salad, followed by three episodes of Stella.  The rain became torrential with thunder and lightning occasionally.

28 km 4 locks 4 hrs.10mins.

Thursday 9th June - Castelsarrassin to Montech

We left our mooring at 10.15 and breezed through our first two locks on our own.  However at the third lock we came across a yacht mooring to the bank and when Crew tried to turn the dangler it didn't work.  So we approached the three yachtsmen to,be told that the lock was faulty and that they had called the VNF.  So we moored on the bank to await rescue!  After a 20 minute wait we locked through.  The next event was a five lock chain, which was manned by an eclusier but again we came up against a red light and the yacht moored on the landing stage.  One of their crew had gone to find out what the problem was and came back saying that it was lunchtime until 1.30 (another 40 minutes or so to wait!  At their suggestion they left the pontoon and we moored on it so that they could come alongside us.  Nothing else for it but to crack open the beer and partake of some lunch ourselves!  The yachts' name was very unusual.......and completely unpronounceable!  Sgathach!!  The crew were three very nice Scottish men - I suggested that they might prefer to be at the back of the lock (with the water coming in at quite a rate, it gets pretty rough at the front!), for which they were very grateful.  Unfortunately there was a scarcity of bollards to secure the boat and we had to attach the front line very close to the gate which meant that Skip had to hold us back.  He found it very hard on his hands and was having to use the engine as well.  On the last of the five (Skips' hands by now were red raw and although Crew gave him some gloves, the damage was done!) the force of the water was so strong, Aphrodite skewed about alarmingly and came within inches of the gate......metal on metal, not good!!  Skip threw the engine into reverse just in time!  Enough excitement for one day!  We moored in Montech at 2.45p.m.  We like Montech as it has a lovely restaurant on the canal just a few steps away although the supermarket is a bit of a walk.  We got organised then went over to the Capitainerie to pay and ask about dentists.  The lady there kindly made a phone call but said there was no reply, so since it was only around the corner we walked there but no dentists were present.  So  back to the boat where Skip plugged our electricity in while Crew walked on to the restaurant and ordered a couple of cold beers (our fridge is misbehaving and doesn't seem to keep the beers very cold, not to mention the wine!).  We booked a table on the terrace for 8 p.m. as it promised to continue to be warm.  We had a lovely meal and superb wine, making up for our so-so pizza last night!  A digestif on the back deck and bed.

13 km 8 locks 4 1/2 hours

Wednesday 8th June - Moissac to Castelsarrassin

Made the dentist in plenty of time and another 40 minutes or so later saw Crew emerging with a big smile!  Hurrah!

Back to the Marina, passing by the Capitainerie to say 'goodbye' to Sandy and Jim.  Then back on board to prepare to leave port.  The locks on the Garonne are nice and easy, even going up and we got secured in the lock just after noon.  All going well, then..........a squeak from Crew!  The crown had fallen out again!  To push on or go back??  Crew said she thought it best to carry on and try and find another dentist en route, otherwise we will never get anywhere!

We arrived in Castelsarrassin just before 2 o'clock and moored stern to just outside the Capitainerie.  Skip went to pay our dues and enquire about local dentists - (seems to be our mission so far!).  The young lady didn't know of any in Castelsarrassin but knew of a couple in Montech, one near the Capitainerie, which is her dentist.  So my Anniversary will be a non- laughing one and we will press on to Montech tomorrow.
It had been a very warm, thirst making days' cruising , so to our delight a new addition to Castelsarrassins' amenities was a converted bus, made into a snack bar/ bar so we ambled over for a cool beer!
A bottle of Cremant d'Alsace was opened to mark our 42 years around six o'clock.
So......on to the Anniversary dinner.  We made for the only restaurant we knew of in Castelsarrassin, Le Patio - very acceptable, except that, on a Wednesday night, it was closed! So we wandered around the town, looking for somewhere to eat.   A strange town, Castelsarrassin - it's a sizeable place but, as far as we can see, not a single bar in town......the restaurants are few and far between too!  So the only place we found open was a Pizzeria - coo......thought we were in France!!  It's that or back to the boat and cobble something together!  We decided on Pizza.  When asking for a pichet of white wine, we were told only rose or red was available, so opted for a Ricard each as an aperitif ( trying to pretend we were 'fine dining').  Then ordered a pichet of red to go with our pizzas!  The pizzas were passable, as was the red wine.  Beside us were four men getting rather merry - three locals and a Madagascan!  Oddly, the only one who spoke any English was the Madagascan........normally Crew doesn't have too
much of a problem understanding French but the local dialect is rather strong, not to say a little difficult to understand due to their inebriation!  It livened up the evening anyway!
Back to Aphrodite for digestifs and bed.

8 km. 7 locks 2 hours

Tuesday 7 th June - Moissac

Crews' dental appointment was for 11 o'clock.  After a bit of a wait and an hour in the dentists' chair, Crews' nerve was taken out and the preparation was made to receive the crown but that couldn't be done until the next day!  So another appointment was made for tomorrow at 10 o'clock.  Back on board for a light lunch and siesta.  Assuming Crews' tooth is sorted, the plan is to move on to Castelsarrassin tomorrow and, unfortunately have our Wedding Anniversary dinner there.  We haven't been able to find a good restaurant there and had planned to be in Montech where the lovely Restaurant Constant is.......never mind!! We're on Plan D already........boats eh!
For our last evening we dined at The Florentin in the square - our last meal in Moissac!  Very sad to leave.....we have both become very attached to Moissac.  What you'd call a 'shabby chic' town!  A lovely meal, as usual, some music and bed!

Monday 6 th June - Moissac

Yes, still here!  We had expected Nigel, the electrician to come soon after nine o'clock but he didn't turn up till almost eleven.  A very nice chap - he said that he had Denmans in his family....interesting!  He got to work straight away and fixed the grey water pump in about 15 minutes.  For some reason, the pump had jammed and Nigel was able to manfully 'unjam' it. He very helpfully gave us the whereabouts of a good dentist in Toulouse for Crew.  So two problems out of three solved - the Internet and the pump.  Next, the dentist in Auvillar, the name of whom was given to us via an e-mail to Kaz, the former incumbent of the marina here.  She and Ian are now growing chillies in Dominica!!  It took about half an hour to get to the quaint town although some of that time was taken up in combatting the one way system and the road works - everywhere in France seems to be digging things up!  Here in Moissac they are making a new roundabout at the end of our road.  They also seem to be building something in the middle of the roundabout - must find out from Jim what it is! Finally got to the dentist and showed the dental nurse on Reception my little crown.  She frowned quite a bit and when a male dentist arrived and she showed it to him, he frowned even more, drew in his breath and said 'difficile'!  As I had thought, the crown had not just fallen out but had broken off leaving bits still attached.  It seems that the bits have to come out and a pin inserted to attach the crown to.  Hopefully, he can re- attach the same crown, otherwise it will take too long to wait for a new one!  They didn't have time to treat me today so an appointment was made for tomorrow at 11 a.m. - upwards and onwards!!
We stopped at the hypermarket on the way back, ostensibly to get vodka and tonics - coming away with a bill of 70 euros!  How did that happen?  We decided to treat ourselves to lunch in the square and tried the 'menu' in the Lyonnaise restaurant - very reasonable but not as good as last year!
Another lazy afternoon and evening - will probably dream of getting underway soon!!

Sunday 5th June - Moissac

Late start this morning, due to Crews' late morning habit!!  Moissac has a market on a Saturday and a Sunday- the Sunday one is much better, so we decided on a little saunter round.  Not on the agenda, was hats!!  We bought two hats (one each)..........I don't know why!   Anyway, if you're lucky, you may be treated to a picture at some time!  We also bought some cheese at the inside market - we needed some blue and some soft French cheese.  Skip is very partial to Roquefort but Crew had her eye on some Cambazola......the Cambazola won!  Time enough for Roquefort!  Unfortunately, both the supermarket and the Tabac closed as we approached, half an hour before we expected - we were going to have another go at getting more wi-fi at the Tabac but the gods aren't with us at the moment! Nothing else for it but to stop for a libation at the nearby bar - we soon get into the swing of this lifestyle (sure I should have been born French!).
Not much work done in the afternoon, apart from trying to get our Internet sorted.  We can get Wi-fi at the Capitainerie but it's sketchy!
Our plan for tomorrow is to wait for the electrician, then off to Auvilar to find the dentist (Crew is going nowhere with a front gap!).
The weather builds up to a very good heat and by 5 o'clock it is vey warm.  We have two thermometers but they are both crazy.........reading 38 degrees!  It's warm but, not that warm!
Crew cooked a pork chop dinner and we lazed about on the back deck with Van Morrison.

Saturday 4th June - Moissac

Well, so much for thinking that everything was in good working order!  When Skip tried to empty the grey water tank, there was an electrical connection problem......he managed to empty the tank by physically holding two wires together but it wasn't going to empty again!  Jim (the Capitaine) gave Skip the number of an English electrician, so an appointment was made for Monday.  Crew was not overly happy with still being in Moissac on Monday - the plan was to leave on Sunday, so Skip called the electrician and changed the venue to Castelsarrassin.
We are having problems with getting the Internet - the people at our server 'Orange' are saying that no Internet is available!  We managed to get 14 days worth, having said that, Skips' has run out already!
So if I run out too, the Blog can only continue when we get back on track!
Life has to go on so.....to the Saturday market, then lunch!  Skip tried Orange again, to no avail!  Crew ambled round the market and bought vegetables and we (romantically!) met up in the supermarket!  Then lunch in my favourite restaurant, Le Florentin, in the Abbey square.  We settled for the 'menu' - tuna salad starter, followed by Aberdeen Angus beef........definitely one of the best steaks we have had in France!  After our 'amuse bouche' of gazpacho and taramasalata on toast we were just tucking into our tuna salad when Crew squealed.......lost her front tooth (a crown)!  It was saved so, hopefully a good dentist can fix it but, of course, it's Saturday so nothing can be done until at least Monday.
So, here we are with three problems to sort out.......having started so well!  It means that we will be staying in Moissac for a little longer - maybe Moissac doesn't want to see us go!!  C'est la vie, as they say!
Nice siesta for each and a lazy evening on the back deck!

Friday 3rd June - Moissac

Crew woke late after the best nights' sleep in a long while.  No cleaning planned today as we have a lunch date with our Kiwi friends, Gwen and Peter in St. Christophe - about an hours' drive away.
What a find!!!  La Chope et le Pichet, a converted lock keepers' house on the Canal Lateral a la Garonne is run by a very nice Belgian, serving excellent food!  Peter and Gwen brought along two Australian friends they had met last year, Stuart and Deb (see picture).  The lock was reasonably busy as we lunched with five or six boats passing, including the prototype of a new Le Boat hire boat - not very pretty in my view, but practical I guess with plenty of visibility.  If it prevents them bashing into us, as one did last year, it's all to the good!!
On the way back from lunch we stopped off at the Garden Centre and found some lovely, very reasonably priced plants for Aphrodites' 'garden'  - we brought a herb garden with us!
As it was almost five o'clock on our return we decided against any work so relaxed on the aft deck instead!  Lovely day.

Thursday 2nd June - Moissac

We're back!!  But what a journey getting here!  Three days of constant rain (lovely on the motorways with the heavy spray from all the trucks!) and a maximum of 12 degrees.  At least we didn't have to worry too much about our cold box containing precious fillet steak and sausages!  We stopped at a lovely converted water mill on the Seine in Conelles, just south of Rouen on the first night  Such a shame the weather was so awful - we could have enjoyed it so much more otherwise.  Day two saw us making for Limoges which involved many kilometres driving down the A10.  It was soon apparent that the A10, for some reason, was not available and an alternative route needed to be found.  As neither of us trust our GPS (that woman has sent us up mountains and round in circles!) Crew became navigator.  We tried to join the motorway about 50 km further on but still to no avail.
We ended up having to make a huge diversion west to finally reach Limoges.  The post code was plumbed into our fantastic GPS lady (use the word loosely) who promptly deposited us somewhere in central Limoges, assuring us that we had reached our destination!  Given that we were booked into a golf hotel and with not a blade of grass in sight, we decided that she had got it slightly wrong again!  Three or four phone calls to the lovely lady on the Hotel du Golf reception saw us in the car park and finally booking in........we had been on the road for 11 hours!!  Two cold beers for Skip and a glass of cool white for Crew improved our demeanour somewhat, followed by a Steak Tartare each......slept like babies!
The weather was not much improved the next morning,  added to the fact that we had to travel through the high hills of the Lot Valley - it was like driving through clouds!  Which, in effect, we were!
We arrived in Moissac at 1.15 p.m. to our great relief but as we were rafted alongside another boat we had to climb across to get to Aphrodite, so unloading the car was impractical.  The state of Aphrodite was atrocious......deck completely green!  And no better once on board - the aft deck was covered in cats' hair - we had the same last year but this year.......maybe more than one cat??  Every surface was covered in hair!  Big groan!
Skip unloaded a few things (bed linen) so that Crew could get the bed made up (might need it sooner rather than later!) then, although the Capitainerie was closed, Jim called across and said we could move Aphrodite over so that we could unload properly - good man!
We got ourselves reasonably comfortable but Crews' culinary imagination had deserted her, so we had sausage sandwiches with a nice red, a film and bed.

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