Thursday 29th June - La Ferte-Sous-Jouarre to Chateau-Thierry

Steve and Lynne were going to leave with us but changed their minds so we left the port around 9.30 a.m.  It promised to be another hot day so our 12 kph speed limit made for a pleasant cruise.  The heavily wooded banks of the river had started to thin out in places, allowing glimpses of the champagne vineyards now, which was very cheering!
On approaching Chateau-Thierry it looked to be a fairly large town with a pretty flower display to greet us but when seeking a spot to moor, there was only a pontoon for three boats with power and water.  Needless to say, it was full so we tied off on a high stone wall near the town bridge - not at all satisfactory as disembarking for Crew was certainly not going to be a graceful affair!!
After some lunch Skip walked back along the bank to see if there was anything better and came across a Dutch lady who said that the Norwegian yacht in front of them would be leaving around 4 p.m.  However it would be quite a squeeze for us to get into that spot so she suggested that at least the low wall in front of them would be better than where we were.  Skip agreed and we moved.....much better!
Skip went into town for a look around after his siesta and reported back that it was quite a decent town but we decided on bangers and mash for dinner on board.
We dined on the back deck and indeed stayed up there until past ten o’clock as it was still warm and not yet dark.  Then down below for a bit of telly and bed.

39 km. 4 locks. 4 hours

Thursday 28 th June - La Ferte-Sous-Jouarre

We decide on staying another night as it was really rather a pleasant spot - also we are able to get TV and the Belgium v England match was on in the evening!  So, another ‘rest’ day.......this time, window cleaning for Crew.  It promised to become a very hot day, so tried to keep it to a minimum!!
Chris (on Pelican) had walked into town and spotted a nice restaurant overlooking the river and booked a table for lunch for the six of us so after freshening up we all trooped to the restaurant,
We had drinks on an upstairs terrace with a lovely view of the town and river, then down to the restaurant for a delicious lunch.  We ambled back to the boats in the heat of the day, helping some Australians to moor on the way.......then siesta!
When Crew put the TV on at six o’clock the reception wasn’t too good but by the time the football started at 8 p.m. it had improved considerably.  That said, the match was very lacklustre with England  losing 1-0 to Belgium.  We watched and episode of Vera then bed.

Wednesday 27th June - Meaux to La Ferte-sous-Juarre

As we had around 20 km before the first lock Skip was keen to get going early so we left just before 8 a.m........yikes -what’s happening!!  The first lock we came to had a red light and indeed we had to wait for the lock to empty which seemed like an age as we were bouncing around in the turbulent waters of the adjacent weir - not to mention the shallows near the bank!  Skip had to abort his first attempt at entering the lock, so strong was the rush of water but made it on the second go.
The Marne was very wide here with a speed limit of 12 kph but although we slowed considerably when we spotted fishermen hiding in the trees, two of them still yelled at us in incomprehensible French -as far as we could see we were making hardly any wash at all.  So we just put it down to an angry fisherman area!!!
Our second lock also had a red light and indeed had to empty as well which we couldn’t really understand as the only other boat we came across was cruising in the opposite direction to us!  There are a lot of small islands on this stretch of the river which need careful navigation as there are a lot of hazards, shoals and rocks namely!  Indeed our mooring was tucked behind one of said islands -we were very surprised to find a large commerce moored on the first pontoon but we found plenty of space at the front of the second one and with power and water.  There was also plenty of room for the two boats coming later from Meaux.
A couple of hours later, just as we were going to have lunch, the two boats turned up - Pelican (a brand new 15m barge with Chris and Sarah on board and Kavan

a motor sailer with Steve and Lynne aboard.  After helping them in we continued our lunch, then settled for a siesta in the heat of the day!
Just after four o’clock, Sarah came over and suggested a pontoon party around 5.30.......haven’t attended one of those for ages!
So we turned up with a couple of chairs and a couple of bottles at the appointed time.  We enjoyed a good old chat, finding out about each others’ lives and before we knew it, it was 9.30 - one of the longest ‘apero’ meetings in history!!
Luckily Crew had defrosted some chilli con carne that she had previously cooked but we still didn’t eat until just after 10 p.m.
A bit of TV and bed.

44 km. 2 locks. 4 hours

Tuesday 26th June - Meaux

It promised to be a very hot day so Crew got the washing on then retired back to bed for the required lie in!!  After putting the washing out to dry just before 11.30, we walked into town to explore and treat ourselves to lunch.
We are not great church visitors but thought we would just nip inside the impressive St. Etienne cathedral.  An elderly gentleman informed us politely that the cathedral would be closed in ten minutes - perfect for us and enough time to admire the fantastic architecture and stain glassed windows.
The mediaeval city of Meaux is famous for two things, mustard and Brie so a visit to the well presented museum was a must.  The very helpful young people in the Tourist Office kindly put the English version of the video on for us, which explained exactly how the cheese was produced but nothing about the mustard.  We bought a little pot anyway!
We lunched well in a good restaurant called  L’Ardoise, then strolled back to the boat via the supermarket where, after some searching, Skip found and purchased some Brie de Meaux.
Not too much activity in the afternoon as it was very warm - in the high twenties but thankfully, with a good breeze.  Lazy evening too - just TV and bed.

Monday 25 th June - Lagny to Meaux

We left just before 10 a.m. in sunshine but still with a cool wind.  The river is still wide for our 5 km run to the first lock.......we were joined by a small French boat with a two man crew.  Then a short tunnel - less than a kilometre - and another lock.  Then a 9 km cruise to our final lock and the port in Meaux.
We were greeted by a man with a north country accent, but something else.......he was German born but lived in Britain for 50 years.  He invited us to moor next to his barge as there was no power further down and advised us to attach our central line first as the current was pretty strong.  Good advice!
Evidently the mooring was free as the Port was undergoing renovations and was not officially open yet - three other British boats had taken advantage of this fact.  Although we seemed to be in the middle of the town, it was quite peaceful, with lovely planting around.
We checked that the TV reception was good which, with a bit of fiddling, it was and decided on a two night stay!  We like the look of this town!  However when Skip went for a recce after lunch he came back a bit disappointed......he said too many fast food cafes and shops mediocre.
We decided to dine on board and make a foray into town in the morning - so a lazy evening with dinner on the back deck, then below for some TV before bed.

17 km. 3 locks. 2 1/2 hours

Sunday 24 th June - Nogent-sur- Marne to Lagny

It should have been a nice easy day with only two locks and just under 20 km but it started fairly hecticly dodging numerous rowers on the river.  Also a commerce was going our way and once we had passed all the rowers we caught him up just before the first lock!  These locks are only long enough for a commerce and so we had to wait on a pontoon for him to go up and for the lock to empty again!
We then had to divert to a canal as the river was not navigable and we very soon caught up with the commerce, who very kindly let us pass him.  We are not sure if there are any lunchtime closures on this stretch so we’re quite surprised that our next lock at the end of the canal showed a red and a green light.  The rise was less than a metre so it took no time at all.
We were helped in by a nice Dutchman in Lagny just after one o’clock and settled ourselves.  Now the big question was - do we have TV so that we can watch the England v Panama game??  Answer....no!  We had a very tall block of flats right by us, blocking the reception.
So, after a swift lunch Skip went across the bridge to a bar in the hope that the game was showing but alas,  they had horse racing on the TV!  Poor Skip!!  He wandered around for a while but to no avail and came back to Aphrodite a disappointed man!  A good job we’re nowhere near the final games yet!
We decided to eat dinner on board since the town was having some sort of fiesta with all sorts of games, etc. both on land and on water. It was like a big village fete, with donkey rides and lots of games for the children - many people walking on the quay towards the festivities.  In fact when they had decided on a water display with jet skis doing back flips and a strange water jet with a man riding it (see picture....not easy to explain!), Crew was trying to prepare dinner with the boat rocking like mad!  My job is not always easy!!
We ate dinner on the back deck, although the wind was still quite blustery, then watched DVDs before bed.

19 km. 2 locks. 3 hours

Saturday 23rd June - Draveil to Nogent-sur-Marne

Just two more big locks on the Seine today before turning off onto the River Marne - then two small river locks and a tunnel to our destination.  We shared our first lock with a passenger boat and a commerce but left the passenger boat behind as he was travelling so slowly for our second.
Then onto the Marne and our first lock going up now was four metres deep and no sliding poles, so had to move the line up as we rose in a fairly turbulent lock!!  Not Crews’ favourite one!!
We arrived in Nogent at 12.45 and moored front in with the help of some very friendly French boaters.  As the wind and current were both going the same way we had difficulty in keeping the boat straight but we did our best and settled, if a bit askew!
The fact that Nogent is on the outskirts of Paris is fairly evident with all the buzz of a city suburb going on.  As we had passed a rowing club on the river, the rowers were in evidence too, along with fast speedboats instructing the rowers so it was a bit bumpy.....we also have the occasional commerce passing by too.  We find we both have a yen for a quiet country mooring!
We decided to have dinner out as Sundays and Mondays were often difficult to find restaurants, so Crew would cook dinner ‘Chez nous’ on those days!  Skip had booked a table in the garden of an old ‘ginguette’ (a kind of restaurant of the people, so to speak) called Le Verger.
Well......as fast as the service was the previous evening, so this was extremely slow!  By the time we had received our main meal we had almost gone off the idea!!  Also, we are paying Paris prices for average food really.

We arrived back at the boat only just in time to watch Bridget Jones the age of Reason with a digestif, then bed.

24 km. 4 locks. 3 3/4 hours

Friday 22nd June - Chartrettes to Draveil

Since we had four locks today, we left at 9 a.m. and snuck in behind a very long double barge.....he only just fitted in the lock length wise!  On exiting the lock the barge was very slow and it took a while for us to be able to overtake him.  In the event it made no difference as we had to wait for him at the next lock but he spoke to Skip and said we could exit the lock first......nice man!  Thus we avoided sharing our third lock with him.
The Seine is very wide with plenty to look at.......some very lovely houses on the river front.  Although it was a lovely sunny day, there was a cold northerly wind blowing - the speed at which we were travelling added to the wind chill factor!  Most of these big locks involved a wait of some kind but all in all - not too bad!  So we arrived in the Port aux Cerises (the port of cherries!) around two o’clock.  We had called ahead and had a berth allocated which we found without too much trouble and got ourselves settled in.
After some lunch, Skip did his usual recce, looking for a restaurant......the Capitaine had said that the nearest one, Le Gibraltar, was good so we settled on that.
We walked over just before eight o’clock and settled on a table on the terrace overlooking the river.  Although the food was of a reasonable quality, the service was much too fast and we struggled to keep up with the wine consumption at the appropriate time........yes, we really did!!  They asked us three times if we had finished our main course which, in my opinion is not good hospitality!
Back to the boat for a bit of TV and a digestif.

45 km. 4 locks. 5 hours

Thursday 21st June - Moret-sur-Loing to Chartrettes

Crew slept in again due to our late night so we didn’t leave until 10.30 a.m........must do better!  We went down our last canal lock, before stopping to top up with fuel as our fuel gauge was still not working.  Just over 2 km from the fuel pontoon was our first big lock on the Seine -a completely different operation from the relatively peaceful canals!  Here, the commercial barges always take precedence and sometimes there is a lot of waiting around.  We didn’t wait too long however, as a barge slowly manoeuvred in beside us and we went down in the lock fairly quickly.  This was to be the only big lock of the day, which was good.....easing us in gently!
We arrived in Chartrettes around 1.30 p.m. and were greeted by the same affable Capitaine that we remember from 5 or 6 years ago.  He got us settled nicely on the exterior of the port, which wasn’t too much of a problem as the river was very wide here and the wash from the barges not too bad at all.
Another late lunch and a rest, then Skip walked into the little town for a look around.....nothing much to report and we decided to have a relaxed evening and to dine on board.......still recovering from our late night!!

22 km. 2 locks. 3 hours

Wednesday 20th June - Nemours to Moret-sur-Loing

Crew overslept so we didn’t leave our mooring until 9.45 a.m.  It promised to be a beautiful day for our last sojourn on the Loing.  There was a bit of a question mark about our mooring for the night at Moret because all reports said that a lot of unmanned barges were moored there and not much space for visitors. So, spotting a space just before what was to be our final lock we decided to tie off there and Skip walked past the lock to see if there was space in the other side.  The answer was ‘no’ so we made ourselves comfortable on the quay.  There was a notice informing us that we should pay for the mooring even though there was no power or water - where to pay was a mystery so we decided to wait until someone came to ask for money.  We haven’t paid anything for quite a while, even when we’ve had facilities, so it’s not really a hardship to pay here!
After lunch and a rest, Skip walked into town to look for any likely restaurants.  He found quite a few and reported back that it was a very beautiful town.  By now the temperature was over 30c with not much wind, so Skip took a chair and sat under the trees in the shade.
After freshening up we walked into town - the first restaurant we came to looked very nice but alas, it was closed so we carried on.  We both remembered being here before five or six years ago with our friends, Gary and Tina and indeed we ended up eating in the same restaurant as we had that time.
We asked for a glass of champagne as an aperitif but the waitress apologised, saying that it wasn’t cold enough, so we opted for a glass of Cremant instead, which was very good.
The waitress was working alone and the terrace was full so the service was pretty slow, not that it mattered to us.  The food was very good, if a bit expensive.  At the end of our meal the waitress came and said that the champagne was cold enough now and brought us a glass each on the house - nice touch we thought!  We didn’t get back to Aphrodite until just before midnight so no TV - just some music and a digestif!

18 km. 6 locks. 3 hours

Tuesday 19th June - Souppes to Nemours

We left late again, just after 10 a.m. as another short day for us to Nemours.  Then after one more overnight, we will be on the mighty river Seine - a different experience from the canals!

We were very lucky to find a slot in front of a Dutch cruiser, although the bollards weren’t too well placed.  Again we tied off before midday.......could get used to these short days!!
There was a restaurant just a short walk from the boat called L’Ecluse which we thought we should try for lunch as we had arrived so early.  We tidied up and walked over - their menu was €14.50 for three courses and a drink.....can’t be bad.  As we sat on the terrace, the restaurant rapidly started to fill with locals, giving the place a buzzing atmosphere.
Replete, we ambled back to Aphrodite and took our usual siesta - lazy life!  Before Crew surfaced Skip had paid a visit to a small supermarket nearby for supplies (red wine getting low!).  Around five o’clock he decided to walk into town and came back with two more bags of shopping - he gets a bit jittery if he doesn’t shop for a while!
Unfortunately we were not able to get any TV so we started to watch our DVD of Worricker - more Skips’ kind of thing really but it whiled away the evening nicely.

10.5 km. 3 locks. 1 1/2 hours

Monday 18th June - Nargis to Souppes

We didn’t release our lines until 10.45 as we had a very short run to  Souppes today.

.  All three locks were set our way and we arrived at our destination around midday.  Skip researched possible restaurants on the internet and discovered that the one recommended to us by the Englishman in Montargis was closed on Sundays and Mondays.  So as Skip wanted to watch the first English football game of the World Cup in the evening we decided to walk into town for some lunch.

Trip Advisor suggested that it was a 0.6 km walk to the centre of town......Crew disagrees - it was 2km at least!!  

However we found a very pleasant bar for an aperitif and the choice of two restaurants in this shabby/chic little town.  We opted for one which specialised in Portuguese food but ordered the menu of the day, which was more French than anything!  We enjoyed three courses for the princely sum of €13 and........with homemade chips!!!  Delicious!

Back to Aphrodite for a siesta, then a few jobs before settling in for the football.  Well, what a nail biter.....just saved our reputation with a last minute goal!  A bit of normal telly and bed.

8 km. 3 locks. 1 1/4hours

Sunday 17th June - Montargis to Nargis

We left just before 9.30 as we had arranged for a 9.30 lock through with the eclusiers but when we arrived at the lock there was a boat coming up so it was getting on for 10 by the time we got through. We were then given a telecommande, a remote control for the following locks which we were very pleased about - no more lunch stops!   At our fourth lock of the day a very friendly eclusier was very chatty, ending up talking football with Skip!  Not being a hundred percent sure as to where we would stop for the night, we took a look at the village of Cepoy - the village looked nice but the mooring was fairly crowded and we weren’t too sure about the availability of power so we moved on.

After 6 locks we arrived at the next to find a boat coming up again.  After he left the gates closed so we left a few minutes before using the telecommande - no response!  We thought that maybe the locks did close for lunch after all!  Skip called the VNF and they did say that someone would come.  However at one o’clock still nobody had come so Skip called again and, finally an eclusier turned up in about fifteen minutes or so. An hour and a half of our day wasted - all in a days’ cruising I suppose!

Our next possible mooring was a couple more locks on and although it was a bit rough and ready with no power, we decided to stop anyway and tied off on a bollard and a mooring pin in the long grass!

Our neighbouring boat was an old barge with the unsalubrious name of Plancton.  We thought it was just an abandoned boat but shortly a man came on a scooter and made ready to leave.  Soon after his wife, son and little granddaughter arrived.  They set off in the direction we had come, saying they would be back in an hour.

The weather had been very mixed but  thankfully, no rain so far so we settled and had a bread and cheese lunch.   Crew will cook dinner later.
A quiet lazy evening on our country mooring!

15 km. 9 locks. 5 hours

Saturday 16th June - Châtillon-Coligny to Montargis

Yesterday afternoon Skip called the lock keeper and organised a 9.30 start at the lock, so we left our berth around 9.15.  The lock, alas, was not quite ready as a boat was in it coming up.  Whilst hovering, we managed to get our stern stuck on the bottom, which took some effort to release......poor propellor!  Both this and the next lock were a 5 metre drop, so took a little longer than otherwise.
We now had an 8.5 km run to a chain of four locks which, to our surprise were automated - it shouldn’t have been because it was marked on one of our charts!  We managed to get through all four before the lunch stop.
We set off at ten to one in order to be at the next lock for one o’clock as arranged with the eclusier.  The lock gates were open so we went in and secured our lines - no sign of the keeper.  So Skip closed both gates in readiness.  A VNF van came hurtling along.........but drove straight past us!!  Now we sit in the lock and wait!  He came tearing back in about fifteen minutes or so and locked us through.  One more lock and a little run to the mooring in Montargis.  Crew was just thinking that we’d had no problems at all with mooring space this season but didn’t dare say it in case it  brought bad luck!  It made no diffference as there were a lot of liveaboards or boats not occupied lining the long quay but with some help from an English couple we squeezed in on a scruffy grass bank with not much space to manoeuvre.
It is a depressing port, with a very ugly hospital and some run down buildings nearby.....Crew has decided not to venture into town!  We were chatting to our English neighbour, another John, when a car drew up with three young men in it.  As they came to a halt, the driver threw a glass bottle out of the window, which landed in a puddle!  We were flabbergasted - they were obviously drunk as they all walked off carrying a bottle of Jack Daniels and some Coke with them.  Then as we were trying to get ourselves a very late lunch (getting towards 3 p.m. by then) we were approached by a man and a woman in stark uniforms, telling us to go and pay in the office.  We said we would but as Skip didn’t go straight away the man came back and virtually frogmarched him to the Capitainerie!  A nice welcome!!!  All the more reason not to spend any time or money in his town - a pity because Montargis is known as the Venice of France!
Skip did take a walk into town but reported nothing of note - we decided to eat on board.
A quiet night.

23 km. 8 locks. 5 hours

Friday 15th June -Châtillon-Coligny

We decided on a rest day as our last one wasn’t exactly restful.  Also it was Market day and we needed to see some people in this little town!  So we left the boat around 11 a.m. and took a walk around the market which was bigger than we had thought it would be.  Skip, having bought a linen hat was showing serious signs of thirst so we thought we could stop at one of the two bars in the market area but unfortunately there were no spaces available.  We made our way to our restaurant instead but it looked as if it was only serving lunch.  We had decided on maybe lunching there as it was so good but first of all, Skip needed a beer, so we walked to the other restaurant in town but that too was serving lunch and no terrace.  The decision was to go back to the boat for some lunch or back to Le Coligny......no contest really!   The lunch was again very good and we made our way back to Aphrodite again, fully replete!  We stopped to talk to a neighbouring lady on a Linssen cruiser, Triton II who was travelling in the opposite direction to us......they wanted to go to the restaurant but they are both lactose intolerant and it seems that the restaurant can not accommodate them.....shame for them!
A very lazy afternoon ensued, with Crew feeling only a little bit guilty for not doing any cleaning. But it is a rest day, right!!
Tomorrow we are cutting out our proposed stop as it’s a very short cruise again - Crew thinks this is some kind of punishment by Skip......he really doesn’t want me to rest too much!!  So we are aiming for Montargis instead of Montbouy.
Working on this principle Crew planned a quiet evening with a bit of telly!

Thursday 14th June - Rogny to Chatillon Coligny

We left at 9.15 as we had a short day and wanted to avoid having to stop for the lunch closure.  Our six locks all went very smoothly, thanks to the efficiency of the eclusiers and we were well settled stern to on a free mooring by 11.30 p.m.- probably the earliest we have ever arrived in port!
We got ourselves settled and Skip went to the Tourist Office on the quay to pay and ask about the town.  We had been given a recommendation for a restaurant here, The Coligny and Skip wanted to find out its’ location.  There was nothing to pay, which was very good news and the restaurant was just a 15 minute walk across the bridge......so all good!
We had an early lunch then usual siesta, after which Skip walked around town for an hour or so.  Châtillon-Coligny is a rather sad little town with a lot of shops closed down, giving the place a more shabby than chic appearance!  There are a lot of very old buildings which haven’t been very well cared for, which adds to the overall impression of neglect.
Later, we freshened up and walked to the restaurant just before 8 p.m.  What was very noticeable was the lack of people around.......maybe more folk tomorrow on market day!
The restaurant had a terrace which could have done with a bit of a makeover and although it was quite a balmy night, we were not encouraged to dine outside....a shame.  However the dining room was a very attractive one although only five other people were dining.  The meal was excellent though and very efficient service.  We went out onto the terrace to finish our red wine before the dessert and started talking to three Australian ladies who had been dining and were on a hire boat for the first time.......brave girls!  The waitress came out to us and asked if we would like our dessert served outside - as we said ‘yes please’ they brought a tablecloth and two cushions for the chairs and promptly served our dessert with a complimentary glass of bubbles!  Good service!!
We walked back to the boat for a little TV and to take our full stomachs to bed!

10 km. 6 locks. 2 hours

Wednesday 13th June - Ouzouer-sur-Trezee to Rogny

Crew overslept so we didn’t set sail until after 10 a.m. (double figures at last!).  Today we have six locks up to the summit then six down - they are all about 4 metres deep.  We had a very pleasant young man to see us up the first locks, then we stopped for the lunch break for about 45 minutes.  A young lady helped us for the first three when everything was going swimmingly.  However, we had to wait for over half an hour for the next as there was a problem.......and, indeed, as the lock gates didn’t open fully to release us, it was a bit of a squeeze to exit!  Then we had to wait another half an hour, as a hotel boat was coming in the opposite direction - they have priority!  The afternoon was not going as smoothly as we thought it would.....it is 13th I suppose!!
What we thought would be a maximum of three and a half hours’ cruise became  almost five hours, so we arrived in Rogny at 3 p.m.  The quay was practically empty but we moored close to a little French cruiser as we suspected the hotel boat would join us later, even though there were no cones reserving a space for them.
We chatted to a very nice English lone sailor Nick, who kindly invited us for coffee on his boat but we said maybe later as we had not had any lunch yet.  So a quick lunch of quiche and salad, then Skip went for a walk to research restaurants, etc.  He found two but one was favourite, the Auberge les Sept Ecluses, which of course, was closed, so unable to book.  On his way back he saw Nick practising his boules skills and after discussion with Crew went back to invite him for drinks on Aphrodite at 7 p.m.
In the end it turned out that the restaurant was not open for dinner and we ended up with a takeaway pizza!  We had a long chat with Nick, who had also ordered a pizza, and indeed told us that the restaurant was not too good anyway.  It seems that Rogny les Sept Ecluses was not very well served with good dining establishments!
Rogny les Sept Ecluses obtains its’ name from the old flight of seven locks, much like those at Beziers in the south.  These seven were a remarkable feat of engineering built during the reign of Henry IV.  They have now been replaced with the six locks we descended this afternoon which unlike the old flight the locks have gaps between them, allowing boats to pass.
After our pizza feast, we chatted a bit more then by invitation we went to look over Nicks’ old Luxe Motor barge.  Although she was over 20 metres. long, there was only one cabin and one head but the saloon was very spacious, so good for a liveaboard.
We made our way back to the boat for some TV and bed.

11 km. 12 locks. 4 3/4 hours

Tuesday 12th June - Belleville- sur-Loire to Ouzouer-sur-Trezee

We set off around 9.30 - only three locks with long stretches of cruising today.  After our first lock we had a nineteen and a half kilometre run.  After almost an hours’ cruising we came across a very slow Hotel boat going our way.  We both pulled a face......it would be a long, slow slog at this rate.  But the skipper slowed right down and invited us to pass which we did - and very grateful we were too!
After crossing the one kilometre aqueduct just before the town of Briare, then just two more locks before our stopping place, Ouzouer.  We had to stop for the lunch break before these two but were settled in by 1.45 p.m.
Again we had stopped here before, 5 years ago and both remembered it as last time there was a wedding reception in the attractive modern building right by the quay.  A very poor bar/restaurant town though.....as Crew remembers the bar closed at midday last time!!
There was a sign put up on the quay to save a space for the hotel boat we had passed, so we moored as far back as possible.  We got settled and had lunch then Skip walked into the village - bar/cafe and a boulangerie only, neither of them open!  So dinner on board.
We had to eat below as the temperature had dropped somewhat by the time dinner was ready.....TV and bed.

26 km. 3 locks. 4 1/4 hours

Monday 11th June - Belleville-sur-Loire

Not a good start to the day!!  As crew was enjoying a bit of a lie in below, a Le Boat cruiser went past us, far too fast - Crew thought she heard a clunk and indeed, a few minutes later we realised that we had lost our stern rope which was attached by our mooring pin.  It was pulled out of the ground and Aphrodites’ stern was out in the middle of the canal!  Our power cable was manfully keeping us attached at first but then the strain was too much and it pulled out and disappeared into the canal!  We thrusted the stern back and Skip jumped off to save the cable and secure our stern line - this time banging the pin in as far as it would go.  Crew had bought a high step for this trip to allow her to use the navigators’ seat and as there was a long jump down to terra firma, we were using it on shore.....alas that disappeared into Davy Jones locker the same way as the power cable!!  Amazingly, the power was still on when Skip pulled it out of the water.  We got ourselves straight again and discussed a plan for the day.
We decided to look for a supermarket as stocks were running low (no shopping for a week....Skip was having withdrawal symptoms!) and thought we would move the boat through the lock nearer the village.  We were looking at the boulangerie hours - disappointing...closed on Mondays!  But a man came and asked if we wanted bread - we said yes and he brought us a baguette, which was very nice of him!  As we passed the Information  Centre, we went in for a map and asked about a supermarket, then went on to book for dinner at the Logis.  A beer was then taken in the bar opposite, then as it was  by then after 1 p.m. as we passed the lock we asked the eclusier if we could pass through the lock.  We got settled in no time and had some lunch.  Then off to the nearby supermarket to stock up.  This rest day has been rather busy!!
The middle of the afternoon saw us cast adrift again!!  The bollard that our stern line was attached to was very low in the ground and Skip had passed it round twice in an attempt to prevent the rope from riding up but when a boat passed us, it escaped the bollard and, once more we were straddled across the canal!  We straightened up once again and avoided the problem by securing a central line above the stern one......which we should have done in the first place!!  Who said boating was a relaxing pursuit?
Crew busied herself with washing and ironing whilst Skip cleaned the hull (one side only of course) then we freshened up for dinner.  The Logis  had a large covered terrace so we opted to eat there as it was still a warm evening,  even though the other few diners were inside.  The meal was pleasant although we both decided that we didn’t like the razor clams which adorned our starter of a rather good bisque.  The rest was certainly passable and we made our way back to Aphrodite with full stomachs.
TV and bed as usual.

Sunday 10th June - Menetreol to Belville-sur-Loire

Skip wanted to leave at 8 a.m. as our weather forecast suggested light rain around ten o’clock - as it was we left at 8.45 under grey skies.  Half an hour after setting off though, thunder was to be heard, followed by increasingly heavy rain until a deluge was in progress.  We arrived at our first lock to find a young lady eclusier ‘ manning’ the lock.  She was just closing the top gate with us settled in the lock when another boat turned up, so she re-opened it and let them in.  It was a hire boat with a French crew and unfortunately, not the best experienced as they rammed into our stern with some force......will need to have an inspection later!
By the time we arrived at our second lock, the rain was easing off luckily and, although the lock was not prepared we locked through easily.  However, at our final lock, a large commercial barge was in the lock and there seemed to be a problem.......we hovered around for almost half an hour before a VNF man arrived to get things moving.  By the time we got into the lock, the rain started again, soaking us for the second time!  So an easy three lock, 22 km day turned into a very wet, frustrating nightmare!!
We arrived at Belleville just after midday and cruised past a possible berth with a power point to see if there was a better place but decided to turn around and go back.  Unfortunately our French friends arrived and took the place we had in mind so we had to tie up just behind them.  After we got settled they asked if we would take a drink with them - presumably to make up for the bump earlier!  We readily accepted and they set out their table and several chairs, along with a barbecue.  We learned that they had only hired the boat for the weekend - six adults and four children.....quite a squash on that boat I’d say.  They were very friendly and we stayed drinking and chatting for about half an hour, then retired to Aphrodite for lunch.
After lunch, Skip went for a recce and reported back that we were moored in the wrong place - we had both missed that fact on the charts!  That’s the problem with rain soaked brains!! The proper mooring was through another lock and was also fairly full so we decided to stay put and maybe move tomorrow as we thought we deserved a rest day.
Crew cooked fillet steak for dinner which we ate on the back deck as the weather was very warm and humid after all the rain.
TV and bed.

22 km. 3 locks. 3 3/4 hours

Saturday 9th June - Marseilles les Aubigny to Menetreol

A fairly heavy day today, so we left just after 9 a.m., this time arranging our departure time with the eclusier.  All the locks went smoothly, the eclusiers all very pleasant.  We stopped for a bite of lunch around midday and made our way to our next lock for 1 p.m.
We arrived in Menetreol at 2.45, to find a large stretch of the quay sectioned off, presumably for a hotel boat. We manoeuvred ourselves onto the end of the quay in front of a hire boat.  They had only stopped for water so we decided to move back once they had gone.  In the meantime the lure of the nearby hotel/restaurant was too much on such a hot day (must have reached 30c by then and hardly any wind!) so we ordered cold beers.  The hire boat left, so we moved back.
On the quay was a bar, a hotel/restaurant and a boulangerie but on investigation, no grocer in town, which was a shame as we were running low on supplies!  We had to obtain a key for the electricity from the hotel, so booked a table for dinner at the same time.
We rested in the heat of the day - it was very humid and a storm looked imminent.  Indeed around 6.30 p.m. loud claps of thunder were heard, followed by a heavy downpour which lasted only for fifteen minutes or so.  By the time we went for dinner, everything had dried out and the air was fresher, so fresh in fact, that we felt a bit chilly so dinner was a fairly quick affair!  The food was very good quality and exceptional value at €17.50 for three courses.  Hats off to the couple who ran this little hotel, the lady was the only one serving the food and we think, just her husband in the kitchen.  They had had a very busy lunch time and also quite a few diners too!
Just a half hour climb from Menetreol was the small town of Sancerre, famous for the delicious white wine but the climb is very steep!  Five years ago we chickened out of doing that and booked a taxi to take us up there!  Our excuse was the weather, as it was raining and very windy!
We were glad to get back to the warmth of the boat after dinner, and enjoyed some wine and TV before bed.

32 km. 9 locks. 5 1/2 hours

Friday 8th June - Nevers to Marseilles les Aubigny

It seems that I have mixed up the days, dear readers!  I have two Tuesdays on the blog this week - humble apologies....senior moment!!
We went over to say goodbye to our Australian friends and left the port at 9.30. Our first two locks were going up and since they were each around 3 metres, involved Skip climbing the ladder to attached lines.  We shared the lock with a friendly French foursome who were very efficient.  The locks, however were very slow!
We followed the French hire boat out of the locks but found them painfully slow....1.3 kph!!  We had a 10km cruise to our next double locks, which had a drop of 9.3 metres and at this rate, we wouldn’t get there until the lunch closure, so we needed to overtake them.  This was not an easy task as the canal was very narrow with few opportunities to pass.  After about half an hour though, Skip managed it and we made the double locks with 15 minutes to spare!
We had been following a very slow passenger boat full of jolly people enjoying lunch.  After a while Skip took the opportunity to overtake him and we arrived at our next lock at 12.30, so we tied off for a cooling beer as it was by now, very warm.  The passenger boat arrived about 15 minutes later and the lock keeper waved them into the lock then also invited us to join them, which we did.  Whilst in the lock the captain of the passenger boat suggested to Skip that we overtake him after the next bridge.  Then just an 8 km run into the port of Marseilles les Aubigny, arriving at 2 p.m.
A strange port this, with, as far as we could see just two spaces for visitors.  As both were free we made our selection and moored.  Although it all looked a bit neglected and no signs of life on any of the other boats, the power bourne worked and we settled in.
Across the canal we spotted a bar/tabac, a patisserie and a small grocers and a butcher ( both closed unfortunately!).  Still two out of four is not bad and Skip went over to buy a fresh baguette for our late lunch, along with two very good quiches.  There was not much to see in this small town so we rested up and decided to go over to the bar for a couple of drinks later  to celebrate our 44th wedding anniversary.  The idea was to find a nice restaurant but as neither of us felt very hungry we decided to be lazy. In any event the closest good restaurant was about a mile and a half away!
We walk across to the bar around 7.30 after freshening up and found a mixed party of locals enjoying drinks and chat.  After our intended two drinks, one of the men offered us a drink, so it would be churlish to refuse!  This began quite a long discourse between us all and after Skip buying a round and a lot of chatter, we didn’t leave until after 10 p.m.  We got back to Aphrodite and broke out the cheese and red wine, then a little TV and bed.

27 km 5 locks 4 1/2 hours

Wednesday 7th June - Fleury to Nevers

Crew overslept but still managed to galvanise herself into action for a 9.45 a.m. departure (still single figures!).  No arrangement had been made with an eclusier so Skip had to call the VNF. The rest of the locks were fine, until we arrived at the turn off for Nevers which we did around 12.40......so a twenty minute wait until the lock would open.  Even though the two locks are automatic, they still close for lunch!
We locked through at one o’clock and arrived in the port at 1.45 p.m.  we were greeted by a very nice young Capitaine and guided to a stern to berth.  We had some lunch and the usual siesta.  When Crew rose from her bed, there was no Skip around and no note to be seen!  He arrived shortly with the news that some antipodean friends of our New Zealand friends, Peter and Gwen had arrived in port.  He had invited them over for aperitifs at 7.30 and then dinner in the restaurant on the other side of the basin as the town is quite a walk for alternative restaurants.
Nevers is an interesting town with some beautiful buildings and with a tradition of tin-glazed earthenware known as faience.  In fact the whole area is into ceramics of some kind.
We had met Stuart and Debbie for lunch two years ago in the south.....at a very good Belgian restaurant, along with Peter and Gwen.  This time they had hired a boat and were with their friends,  John and Sue.  We enjoyed drinks, nibbles and a catch up for almost an hour and then went for dinner.  We had dined in the restaurant five years ago and both ordered the speciality - friture (which, in essence is whitebait) but we found it very dry with too much batter, so we planned to avoid at all costs!  Sue got talking to a Dutch couple who told her the mussels were delicious, so that’s what we all ordered and were very happy with the choice!  We had seen two adult coypu swimming around and as we sat waiting for our food, they reached the bank and came onto dry land.  Sue was thrilled to observe these creatures and indeed take lots of pictures of them eating grass.  They are native to South America really, so not quite sure how they migrated to France but many are to be seen swimming around.
We had a lovely evening and went back to the boats around eleven o’clock.  After having a quick look around their hire boat, we made our way to Aphrodite for a digestif and bed.

22 km. 5 locks. 4 hours

Tuesday 6th June Decize to Fleury

As our fuel gauge was not working, Skip decided to top up the tanks, so that was our first job.  We didn’t leave the fuel pontoon until almost ten o’clock but that was not a problem as it was a very short trip to Fleury.  We locked up in Decize and then just two locks down to the pretty mooring spot in Fleury.
We have moored there twice before and there is a little cafe in a wooden hut alongside, which has added an extra seating area over the years since we last visited.  We debated whether to have lunch or dinner there but decided on lunch and a very lazy rest of day.  A French foursome arrived on a hire boat shortly after we’d got settled and after they had tied up, one of the men passed us on his way to the bar, admiring Aphrodite.  We exchanged a few words and followed him and his friends a little while later.
The set menu was €12, or €14 with a 25cl pichet of wine, so we weren’t expecting too much.  It was indeed a very simple meal but passable.  Whilst eating, two more hire boats pitched up, each with six people on board, all dressed in identical blue and white striped t-shirts.  With some difficulty they filled with water and a few of them had a beer in the bar.  After quite a lot of noise, during Skips’ siesta time, they left!  Then around four o’clock the French crew left, leaving us Billy No Mates on the quay.  By six o’clock however, four other boats joined us.  At around 6.45 another boat tried to moor next to us but one of the hire boats wanted water and had planned to use that space, having asked us to move along so that they would fit in - a bit of an international incident occurred but all was resolved amicably.
A lazy evening with wine and TV followed!

12 km. 3 locks. 2 hours

Tuesday 5th June - Decize

We decided to stay for two nights in order to catch up with some chores.  Crew was not sleeping very well so not feeling too great.  A quiet day methinks!!
Skip walked into town for a look around and another supermarket visit.  Then we had lunch and chilled.
Dinner was consumed on the back deck as it was still warm, followed by some TV with a not very good reception.