Wednesday 30th May - Paray-le-Monial to Digoin

Only a short day today, so we left our mooring at 10 a.m. on a bright sunny morning.  Unfortunately the forecast doesn’t bode too well with rain for this afternoon. But as usual, forecasts can be wrong and the storms that we have quite often pass over very quickly.
We had problems with the first two locks and had to call the VNF man each time.....but our last lock was fine.  A very pleasant 6 km run into Digoin followed.
We remembered the port in Digoin - last time we were here we had to move on as there was no room for us.  This time we dared to moor on the hire boat side of the port.  We were just getting ourselves organised when a nice young Frenchman appeared asking questions about the boat - it appeared he worked in a nearby boatyard and was interested in internal layout.  He very politely asked if he could come back some time and have a look over Aphrodite.....we said of course he could and arranged for him to come over around 6 o’clock when he finished work.
The two men went off to the station to find out about trains for Gary and Tinas’ departure the next day and while the girls were chatting, a very angry Frenchman came along grumbling loudly and making explosive noises.  With that he viciously unplugged our power cable!  Crew tried to reason with him but he was having none of it - he was extremely agitated.  Crew tried to explain that we only had the fridge working but he just wouldn’t listen.  A little while later, the men arrived back and after we related the sorry story, Skip went to plug us back in but Crew advised against it and suggested we wait until we could find a Capitaine to ask what the problem was.  The man came from his boat and started ranting again and this time pulled the plug on one of the motor homes parked nearby.   The caravanner came rushing out shouting and promptly re- attached himself.  A little while later a man from Canalous (a hire boat company) walked up with the angry Frenchman to his boat and as he walked back Crew asked what the problem was......he said it was another boat further along causing the problem - neither an apology or even an apologetic look was forthcoming from Mr. Angry!
After a fairly quick lunch the men went over again to find out where to pay for our berth and were directed to the other side of the canal to the Capitainerie......the only place they found was a nursing home.  However, using their wily resources, they sussed out a very nice space for us to move to right outside the real Capitainerie.  On returning to the hire base they caused great hilarity on recounting the nursing home story!  We moved across and plugged in - safely this time and got comfortable again.
Not very far from the port was a hotel with a restaurant which looked to be pretty good and whilst in town the boys booked a table for dinner.  We had said around 6 p.m. for Matthieu (the young Frenchman) to come over but as we had moved, it was considerably later when he finally found us and by then we were getting ready for dinner.  So another arrangement was made for the next day.
Another delicious meal was enjoyed, followed by drinks and cards.

12 km. 3 locks. 2 1/4 hours

Tuesday 29th May - Génelard to Paray-le-Monial

We left at 10 a.m. under an improving sky and by the time we arrived at our first lock the sun was shining. We had to wait a while for the locks as there was a small yacht going our way.  We managed to catch him up just before  midday.  A lock keeper told us to stop before the next lock - we weren’t quite sure why but suspect something to do with lunchtime!  On approaching the lock the lights were working and on the green light both us and the yacht went in.  The same thing happened in the next lock, so we made no stop.  We arrived in Paray at 1.45 p.m. and all made a foray into town to find a certain restaurant which Gary had researched.  We found it OK but of course, lunch service had finished so we booked a table for dinner.  On the way back we came across a very smart pizzeria, so stopped and asked if we could get pizzas.  The man said he had finished really but agreed to serve us pizzas.  We enjoyed our lunch on a very pretty terrace and, after paying our bill we were on our way home when the nice man came out waving a bottle and glasses.  As one, we all ran back to imbibe a very acceptable Creme de Menthe type liqueur.........good siesta juice!!
The skipper went into the lovely town to get a recharge for his SIM card on his I pad.

After a good rest and a freshen up we all assembled on the back deck for a glass of bubbles, then walked to the restaurant.  The food and service was excellent and again just one waitress (who was very efficient) and I believe just three people in the kitchen.  It was high end so quite expensive.....but well worth it!
Back for cards and digestifs before bed.

21 km. 7 locks  3 3/4 hours

Monday 28th May - Montchanin to Genelard

We left the mooring at 8.30 but unfortunately didn’t get through our first lock until after nine o’clock as it was faulty - we were travelling with the same German boat as before.  There was bad news from the lock keeper however, the port at Montceau-les-Mines was closed!  We decided on looking at a possible mooring before Montceau but alas, it was full.  After eight locks we were forced to moor just in front of the ninth, on a horrible sloping rocky quay in order to wait for the three lifting bridges after the lock.  They were closed for lunch!  Crew stayed on board whilst the rest of the crew went shopping.  We then had a quick lunch on board before the lock opened.  We passed through the now attractive town of Montceau, mourning what we were missing!  Indeed we passed the newly renovated marina which was not to be re-opened for three days......bad timing by us!!
Although the weather had started grey and rainy, by around two o’clock the sun made an appearance, which improved our mood somewhat, even though the prospect of an extra seven locks made for another long cruising day.
We arrived in Génelard at 4.30 and moored with spikes by a bourne which looked a bit antiquated but nevertheless supplied us with both power and water.  A big bonus......no charge for this!
Gary went for his usual recce but came back disappointed not to find any restaurants available.  He found a boulangerie open however and came back with quiches, bread and a cherry tart.  We were all very tired so relaxed on the back deck with a bottle of Cremant, chatting.
Our evening repast was a very casual affair with bread, cheeses, ham, quiches and salads.  A couple of silly games then bed.

30 km 16 locks  7 hours

Sunday 27th May - St.-Leger-sur-Dheune to Montchanin

As it was to be a heavy lock day, we left the mooring promptly at 9 a.m.   On Skips’ itinerary, it was stated that we had nine locks to work but when Crew did a count, it came to nineteen......quite a difference!!  For the most part, everything went smoothly but the Canal du Centre is probably one of the older canals in France and we’re not easy to work through.  The poles that needed to be pushed were situated at the far end of the locks, very close to the gates so Skip was climbing the nasty ladders to go to the top of the lock in order to push the pole.  This made Crew very nervous ( he’s no spring chicken you know!) so it was deemed safer to drop him off on the bank to walk up and operate the lock that way.  We were very grateful to have Gary and Tina on board as we would have struggled somewhat with just the two of us - how a lone sailor would cope, I don’t know!
We stopped for a 45 minute lunch break five locks before our destination just to rejeuvenate ourselves as it was by now very warm and humid.  Our last locks were very close together and we got through them pretty quickly. Then a three kilometre run to the mooring.  We passed a German couple we had shared locks with two days ago who were moored on some bollards but when we got to the recommended mooring it was very narrow with tatty boats moored each side so a very narrow entrance.  We decided against it and turned round to moor behind the Germans, which was fine but without power.
As it had been a long humid cruise, we all enjoyed a bit of a siesta until Gary decided to go for a bike ride.  We had had the bikes repaired last year but when the boys tried to pump up the tyres, they found it difficult to get any of the pumps to work.  After some difficulty they managed to get enough air in the tyres and Gary peddled off into the distance.  There was nothing much to be seen but he did find a garage and got the tyres pumped up properly!
As there was no possibility of a restaurant, Crew cobbled together roast chicken for dinner, unfortunately eaten below as a storm had decided to pay us a visit!  After dinner it abated enough for us to retire to the back deck for digestifs and a silly game.  It transpired at around 11 p.m. that it was Gary and Tinas’ 18th wedding anniversary.......neither of them had realised it until then!!

19 locks. 19 km. 5 1/2 hours

Saturday 26th May - Chagny to St. Legere sur Dheune

We left our mooring just after 11 a.m. as we only had four locks and a fairly short run to St. Legere.  The nine kilometre run to our first lock took us through very picturesque countryside and was without incident, apart from the worry of getting our canopy under some of the bridges.  Tina worked out a system whereas she would stand on the front deck with her arm held high and if her arm went through we were OK.  But eventually it became too nerve racking and we had to take it down - not too much of a problem shade wise, as the sun was hiding behind clouds!
We arrived just after 2 p.m. and were directed to a mooring with sloping rocks......not ideal but with better depth for us than the alternative offering.  Gary suggested that he walk back to an attractive little canal side restaurant that we passed, to book a table for dinner.  Unfortunately, as it was a Saturday, they were fully booked, so he walked into the little town to see what else was available.  There was an ulterior motive for this enthusiasm though - there was an ‘important’ football match later in the evening!  He reported back that there were two cafes, one a pizza and the other a kebab establishment.  There was also a bar with a TV.  We decided to try the one that looked more inviting at the time.
By the time we walked into town the bar had closed (which put paid to any hopes of watching football!) and on enquiring about the availability of a table for pizzas, were told it would be an hours’ wait, so we took the last option - the kebab cafe!  Crew, not being too familiar with kebabs, followed Garys’ lead and ordered a ‘Royal kebab’ - should have guessed it was the biggest thing on the menu!!
And, although it tasted very good, Crew could only manage half!
Back to the boat for digestifs and cards.

13 km  4 locks. 3 hours

Friday 25th May - Fragnes to Chagny

We left our berth just before 10 a.m., our first lock upon us very quickly.  Five of our eleven locks have a rise of more than 5 metres so a central line is attached to a rising bollard, whereas the rest rise between 2 and 3 metres.
The countryside is very rural with a few attractive villages en route, making for very pleasant cruising   in the sunshine, albeit rather slow as we were following a hotel boat going at snails’ pace!
We arrived in Chagny around 2.30 p.m. and hurriedly set out some lunch as Garys’ stomach was rumbling!  Tina and Crew finished their lunch wine and chatted, while the boys went for a recce around town.  Chagny is famous for its’ 3 star Michelin restaurant, however the starting price for dinner is around €145 per head - and that’s without wine!! So we decided against it and found the nice little restaurant Cepages et Saveurs, run by a lovely young couple.  The food was delicious and imaginative and although the chef was worried about the rack of lamb we had all ordered, it was perfectly cooked and very tasty.  The restaurant itself was a little sterile inside but we were ushered onto a little patio at the rear which was charming.
Luckily we were able to walk off our dinner but decided against playing cards and just enjoyed a nightcap and chat on the back deck.

12km   11locks. 4 1/2 hours

Thursday 24th May - Chalon-sur-Saone to Fragnes

Just after midday, we went into the city for a little walk, rerserving a table at our favourite restaurant for lunch on the way.  We had a beer in a pretty little square near the centre of town, then ambled back to La Bourgogne for our lunch, which was a long affair and very good!  We got back to Aphrodite well after 3 o’clock and made ready for our short cruise to Fragnes.
The quay is long and well equipped with power and water in this pretty village and we soon made ourselves comfortable.  When we last visited, five years ago, the restaurant did not open - even on a Saturday evening but this time, people were enjoying an early dinner on the terrace.
After a couple of hours rest, mainly from our huge lunch, we decided to have a walk around the village.  The only facilities it turned out were on the quayside - the restaurant, a boulangerie and a Mairie.  A very residential village with a lot of large, well kept houses and gardens.  The aim was to do a circular tour but as we kept coming upon cul-de-sacs the circle became rather big!!  Gary kept assuring us that we would come across a turn soon but we’ve been here before.....he’s famous for his ‘short cuts’!!!  Of course, by the time we got back to the centre, a libation was needed so we stopped off at the restaurant for a beer on the terrace.
Then back to the boat for a few hands of cards and some wine.

8km. 1 hour. 1 lock

Wednesday 23rd May - Chalons-sur-Saone

Crews’ last lie in for a week or so, since we will no doubt need to be on duty at some ungodly hour once we are cruising every day!  As Skip uses the guest shower room and cabin for his clothes when we are just the two of us, he had to evacuate both which meant a bit of a squash in the main cabin!  Certainly in the hanging locker department.....Crew will find it difficult to extract her clothes with the addition of far too many shirts, etc.!!
As we are not expecting to see Gary and Tina until around midnight we had a long day to prepare, so Crew prepared a Bolognaise sauce for our evening meal and got on with the preparing the guest accommodation.
As we were relaxing in front of the TV, a yacht decided to arrive around 10 p.m. and moor in front of us, asking us to move back a little!   We manned the decks but they managed to squeeze in anyway.  On talking to the skipper, Crew asked where they hailed from as they flew an American ensign - the
answer......Russia!  It’s always exciting to experience the unexpected!!!
Around 11.30 p.m. Gary sent a text to say they were in an electric taxi in Lyon, winging their way to us!  They duly arrived at Aphrodite just before 1 a.m. - so a couple of drinks, a quick catch up and bed.

Tuesday 22nd May - Chalons-sur-Saone

A work day today - the plan was for Crew to make up the guest cabin.  This always involves a certain amount of cursing as the beds are an enigma, only really suited for members of MENSA to solve....that, Crew is not!!  First things first however - a big shop!  We rarely shop together as we have very different modus operandi!!  Crew tends to visit only the necessary aisles which coincide with the shopping list.  Skip on the other hand likes to visit every aisle, resulting in a long walk and several extra ‘necessary’ items that seem to find their way into the trolley!!  Hence quite a painful walk back with very heavy bags!  A well deserved beer and rest,  followed by copious unpacking and ‘home finding’ for our goodies - then a late lunch.
We dined on steak brought from home, watched some TV, listened to some music and so to bed!

Monday 21st May -Chalons-sur-Saone

We have paid for a four night stay here as Gary and Tina (our friends from Lanzarote) are arriving on Wednesday for an eight night stay.  They normally break up their journey by staying overnight somewhere in Spain but have decided this year to do the whole thing in one day, meaning that they will not be with us until around midnight on Wednesday, after a very long days’ travelling!  They will be very tired when they arrive so we’ll make sure a choice of drinks and nibbles will be arranged on arrival!
Skip spent the morning cleaning the outside of Aphrodite whilst Crew tackled the aft cabin.  Skip went to the huge Carrefour  to replenish stores, followed by another late lunch.  Yesterday there was a lot of partying on the small boats near us but they must be partied out because all is quiet on the Western front today!
We had decided to treat ourselves to dinner out, completely forgetting that it was Monday, so the choice of restaurant was limited.  One restaurant had a notice that all their tables were reserved.....there wasn’t a soul in the place!!  Beyond comprehension!  We decided on a small restaurant called Parcours with a very small menu.  It was that or an Indian or Japanese establishment!  The food was what I would call pretentious......it was all very pretty but not much in the way of seasoning, so not a good taste sensation by any means.  We also got very cold as the meal progressed because the wind was a cutting northerly and the restaurants had no wind breaks, which would have made all the difference.  Never mind - we will aim for our favourite, Le Bourgogne when our guests arrive.
Home and another DVD!

Sunday 20th May - Seurre to Chalons-sur-Saone

We left Seurre at 10.30 under a cloudless blue sky for our lovely cruise along the wide River Saone.  As it was a Bank Holiday weekend, the fishermen were out in force but mostly fishing from small boats as opposed to bankside fishing.  We arrived in Chalons around 2.30, met by the Capitaine who offered us a stern to mooring on a corner but as we spotted an alongside berth further on we requested to land there.  He seemed puzzled by our request but acquiesced and helped us in.
A very late lunch followed by not much action during the afternoon.  The weather was perfect so ‘deck lazing’ was in order!
Crew cooked duck, potatoes and vegetables and we carried on watching our Poldark DVDs.

Saturday 19th May - St. Jean de Losne to Seurre

Welcome dear readers to our 2018 cruising blog.  We arrived in St. Jean de Losne last Sunday in terrible weather......just like winter!  Unloading the car was a nightmare but we managed to stow everything aboard and get the heating on!  Our plan was to stay in St. Jean until Saturday in order to get all the unfinished jobs done on Aphrodite......the usual story - the marina had 8 months to do everything but not all tasks were completed!!
So here we are - under way at last, with all systems present and correct (for now at least!).  We left our mooring just before 11 a.m. for the short run to Seurre.  It’s so good to be on the move again, especially under a practically clear blue sky with plenty of sunshine......hopefully winter is well behind us now.
We arrived in port at 12.30 p.m. after a good clear run with just one lock.  We quickly set off into town to find lunch somewhere.  By the speed of Skips’ walking there was an urgency for a nice cold beer too!  We made for our favourite restaurant first, only to find it closed down and for sale so we went a little further to another good eatery, only to find that one closed!  It is the Whitsun bank holiday here -wouldn’t you think a good opportunity to make some cash in the catering trade?  Of course not.....this is France!  We settled on a pizzeria with outside tables and were pleased to find that they also provided a set menu, which proved to be very good.
A very lazy afternoon followed after our labours of the last week or two with Crew lapping up the sunshine on deck whilst Skip watched Chelsea v Man U......a good result, thankfully!!  Happy Skip!
There was a suspicion that we were to be treated to a musical soirée of some sort later as a band was limbering up in the garden of a house close to us.  Indeed, this proved to be the case as, at around 8 o’clock it began!  Thankfully it didn’t interfere too much with our watching of Poldark