Sunday 24th September - St. Jean de Losne

Well, dear readers, it's the end of the boating season!  Our first 8 weeks were excellent with some very interesting places to re-visit and glorious weather.  Gary and Tina visited us from Lanzarote for 8 days - the weather was so hot that Tina found it a bit too much some days!!  However all systems on Aphrodite worked well......no problems!
For our second 6 weeks, we had mixed fortunes.  The weather started off reasonably well but August soon deteriorated with just the odd sunny day and plentiful rain.  In the middle of August, Martin and Clare came to visit for three days and, although the weather wasn't brilliant, we managed to have a great time with both Skip and Crew made redundant as Clare took over the helm and Martin stationed himself on the from deck wielding ropes with eclat!  The unseasonal weather carried on through September with accompanying very cold mornings and nights!!  Andy and Sally arrived on 12th September to stay with us for three days when disaster struck!  Just two hours before their arrival our guest toilet broke down.  Despite finding a good plumber we were unable to fix it and they had to decamp to a hotel for two nights before deciding to make a slower return to England, via Epernay and Reims.....such a shame!  During the last nine years of our French adventures, we have never had such bad summer weather but I guess one out of nine is not bad!!  Fingers crossed for next season.
Skip was very kindly driven to Toul to collect the car by Steve and Janette on Monday.  We now have five days to put Aphrodite to bed and say au revoir to our friends which means cleaning and socialising in equal measure......it's a hard life!
Hopefully 2018 will deliver some better weather so that Crew can step ashore and explore more of the places we visit......and pass the info on!
Au revoir tout Le monde!!
Bissous. XX

Saturday 23rd September - Pontailler-sur-Saone to St. Jean de Losne

We left just after 10 o'clock in beautiful sunshine again.  Skip, along with Aphrodite, was looking forward to some faster cruising today on the lovely clean river Saone with only two locks.  Having said that, both locks were painfully slow, even though they were only just over a metre deep!
We arrived on the fuel pontoon just after 1.30 p.m. to find another boat waiting for fuel, which is switched off over the lunchtime period.  By the time he had filled up and we had taken on almost 540 litres ourselves we had spent an hour there.
We then made our way to Blanquart's, our home port.  Finding the visitor pontoon occupied, we set about looking for a berth and ended up just a few spaces from where we were moored over winter.  It's quite strange being in this port with the only language being spoken is English!  There are Kiwis, Aussies and even Americans - oh, and a few Brits!
We settled in and relaxed into life in St. Jean de Losne.  At 5 p.m. there were at least two drinks parties going on around us - it could get busy in the next few days.  Most of the Antipodeans and Americans seemed to be packing up and heading back home - just a few Brits left now!
No cooking for Crew tonight - we walked into town and had a lovely meal in our favourite restaurant, Sauconna.  We even sat outside......lovely!
Digestifs, TV and bed.

33 km 2 locks 2 1/2 hours (1 hour for fuel)

Friday 22nd September - Oisilly to Pontailler-sur-Saone

We left at 9.45 with no problems.  In Maxilly-sur-Saone we came across Philippe from Blanquart's on his boat - he was responsible for fitting our new outside fridge. There are two problems with the door....it seems to have dropped a bit, needing a good shove to make sure it's closed and also there is some staining on it at the bottom -we had a very short conversation in passing!   We had a problem with the top gates in our last canal lock, in that they wouldn't close so Skip called on the intercom but there was no response so he called on his mobile and we were told help was coming in 3-4 minutes.  Fifteen minutes later we were still waiting so we tried the intercom again.  Somehow the lady managed to get the gates going remotely.  We then waited for fifteen minutes for our first lock on the river Saone to fill.  By this time two other boats were seen approaching so on entering the lock we moved right to the front of the lock in order to fit them in but a crew of four Germans on a hire boat had other ideas and tied right at the back of the lock so we were just the two of us.  Poor number three!!
We arrived in Pontailler at 12.45 p.m. and happily, managed to moor in amongst the Canalous hire boats with power and water and........a nearby restaurant!!  We are definitely back into civilisation!  The sun was so warm by now Crew got a sun curtain out in order for the white wine not to boil!!  If we hadn't been so surrounded by boats, maybe the bikini would have been released from the back of the cupboard!  This is how autumn should be here!
Skip took the short walk to the town to remind himself of the facilities ( we have stopped here several times before) and returned to report that the restaurant would be open for business later.......hoorah, no galley for Crew tonight!  We went over around 8 p.m. but were told that the main restaurant was full, so we were directed to a second restaurant within the hotel, which was fine except that the lighting was rather bright.  Crew ordered moules and frites which were well above average in quality but Skips' friture didn't go down so well - don't know why he ordered that as I usually find it rather dry with too much batter......his choice!  Don't think he will order it again!  Digestifs on board, TV and bed.

16 km 6 locks 3 hours

Thursday 21st September - Cusey to Oisilly

Our starting time was to be just before 9 o'clock but as Skip had not had a good night worrying about our fuel level, Roger offered to transfer 30 litres of diesel to us.  We therefore left just before 10 o'clock.  All went well until we reached our ninth lock where we found the small yacht which had left the port about 45 minutes before us, sitting in the lock.  Oddly the gates were open but with a solitary red light - against our natural instincts we entered the lock to join the yacht.  He said that they had descended the lock but the gates wouldn't open so they went up again and called the VNF.  As we were talking a VNF van came haring along to the lock and the fast lady driver locked us through.  We thought we would be held up by the yacht as they are normally pretty slow but the German skipper whooshed out of the locks very fast.  All went well for the next few locks until we reached Beaumont.  The top gates opened for us but the red light did not go off - could only assume that the gates hadn't fully opened.  An elderly man was sitting outside the lock keepers' house and came over to talk to us in fairly rapid French. He said he was a retired VNF man and we think he said that he had called them but, not being sure, Skip called again.  The lady in the control office said yes, she knew there was a fault and someone was on the way.  We sat around in the sunshine waiting - a VNF van whistled past us at breakneck speed and disappeared into the distance!!  So Skip called again and was told a few minutes.  Altogether we waited for 45 minutes for help to arrive - the longest wait we have had!  The elderly man told us that there weren't enough people to manage the number of locks.
The Germans decided they had had enough for the day and moored bow in by the side of the canal.  We had thought we would stop in Reneve for the night (4 km and 1 lock on from Oisilly) but Skip had had enough for the day too, and as the little concrete quay was available we disturbed a fisherman with his two little boys and tied off.  The little boys were thrilled to see the boat.....not too sure they were that keen on the fishing!  They were chatting away to Crew who did her best to understand them when their father to.d them we were English, whereupon the older one (about 6) counted to five in English and then named some colours- absolutely charming!  We enjoyed a couple of hours of lovely sun before it retired behind a tree - a very pretty, rural mooring.
The weather is properly autumnal now - cold and misty in the mornings, very warm during the day and cooling down quickly after sunset.  So dinner was taken below - hopefully Crews' last cooking duty for a while!  We couldn't manage to get a TV reception so DVDs again and not too late to bed.  Our longest cruising day for a while!

30 km 16 locks 6 3/4 hours

Wednesday 20th September - Piepape to Cusey

Contrary to Skips' request for a 9.30 start, we left at 9.20 a.m. - not the way to curry favour with Crew!!  As we are now descending and the locks are automated, Crew is able to practise her lassoing skills - her score of 10 out of 11 locks yesterday was the best yet!
All went smoothly until our fifth lock when we came across one of the two commercial barges which had passed by us in Piepape earlier.  The lock had broken down so we would now have to wait until it was fixed, the peniche locked through and the lock refilled for us.  We tried to it off on the side of the canal but as the depth plummeted, decided against it - nothing for it but to wait!  This slowed us down somewhat but at least it was gradually warming up.....whilst in our seventh lock, miracle of miracles, the sun made an appearance!
We arrived in Cusey at 1.30 p.m. and immediately recognised it from six years before - in fact as it was pretty full we had to moor in exactly the same place as we did then......adjacent to the toilet/shower block.  Not ideal as it meant it would be very difficult to get ashore thanks to a metre high wire fence!  For a change we were able to take lunch on deck as the sun was shining, not one hundred percent of course and the air was still pretty cold when it retired!  But we decided to make the most of it - such a novelty!  Roger and Yvonne turned up just as we'd finished lunch and had to raft up against us......could be a problem for them to get their dog, Chico off the boat!
An Englishman from a smart barge, moored ahead of us helped Skip to plug in, showing him some extra sockets behind the shower block as the one on the quay didn't work and said that one of the sockets was for the pizza van which came on Wednesday evenings.  As there was no nearby restaurant, Crew was perfectly happy to enjoy a pizza instead of cooking again.  However when the VNF lady arrived to ask about our movements, she told us the pizza van came on Tuesdays!!  Typical of our luck - we are either a day too early or a day too late!!
So back to the galley for Crew!  We had managed to get a good TV signal by lowering the mast so watched TV and early to bed.

12 km 11 locks 4 hours

Tuesday 19th September - Langres to Piepape

We left Langres at 8.50 a.m. In order to be at the first lock around 9 a.m. - the start of some early mornings for Crew!!  We ascended our first two locks in good time before approaching the 5 kilometre Balesmes tunnel.  It was very disconcerting to find no lights to indicate whether or not we could pass through the tunnel ( it is one-way) so Skip called the VNF and was told it was OK to go.  We hung around for a while waiting for some lights to appear but, when they didn't, Skip called again to get the same lady, still saying 'go', this time with a slight sigh!!  The thought of meeting another boat......or a commerce!.....was in our minds.  We rather like a green light to go on!  There followed intense concentration by Skip for 45 minutes.  The tunnel was well lit but a bit drippy and humid - the windscreen wipers had to be utilised!  In fact it was warmer inside the tunnel than outside.  Looking back when we re-appeared, there was a sign saying 'Closed - Incident'.......can't imagine what that was as we heard no other boat behind us!!  Scary!
We then had an eight lock flight - going down now - which we did in one and a half hours, although we had to stop the engine twice to clear the filter.  There followed three more easy locks to Piepape.  The mooring was a Halte Pique-nique, so no facilities.  We tried the trick of turning the boat, facing in the opposite direction to find TV reception again - alas, it didn't work this time!  The tall trees either side of us might have something to do with it!
We had some lunch then, after failing to enjoy a siesta on the back deck, Skip walked into the village to get some sun on his back!
Dinner on board, DVDs and bed.

21 km 13 locks 4 1/2 hours 1 tunnel

Monday 18th September - Rolampont to Langres

We arranged with Roger and Yvonne to leave just before 10 and told the VNF we would be at the lock at 10 o'clock.  Unfortunately there was no sign of an eclusier so we waited for about 15 minutes then called the VNF again.  A lady lock keeper turned up around 10.30 and saw us through, telling us that we could use the zapper from now on.  They are in the process of automating the locks in this region - a big loss of jobs for the area I imagine!   Whilst in our second lock Roger asked Skip if he wanted to overtake them and go on ahead - Skip agreed because as we were a bit faster than them, we reckoned we stood less chance of being rained on!  We flew through the last 5 locks and arrived in Langres at 12.45 p.m. We moored on the long quay and decided to see which way round we should be in order to get TV reception - we had to turn round!   Out of the Blue arrived 45 minutes later, amused to find that we were now facing them but they guessed the reason why!!
Our usual lunch was taken, once again, down below - we have never had such bad weather for so long in France........shorts and t-shirts remain unused!!!
The town of Langres was, like Chaumont, up a steep hill but this time, 3 kilometres away!!  The plan was to get a taxi up to go for dinner but Crew had doubts that there would be an available taxi to return (even if booked!) so it was the galley again for Crew!  A Thai- style curry was prepared before Roger and Yvonne came over for drinks at 6 p.m.
Dinner, TV and bed.

10 km 7 locks 2 3/4 hours

Saturday/Sunday 16th/17th September - Rolampont

We turned the boat around mid-morning and low and behold, we got TV reception!!  Hoorah!  We decided to stay another two nights as the weather forecast was not good until Monday, having said that the forecast was not proving all that reliable.  The temperature was inordinately low for the time of year, starting off at less than double figures......more like December!!
We mouldered around not doing much - even Skips' job of drying the boat had been given up on as it was a thankless task.
At 6 O'clock we went over to Out of the Blue for drinks on Saturday since we had hosted the evening before.  Crew had prepared dinner so that it was easy just to pop in the oven on our return.
Sunday was another cold miserable day so more of the same, although Crew did mange to go for a 25 minute walk into the village, just about avoiding a rain shower.  A very pretty village with neat houses and a fairly impressive Mairie building.  Dinner on board again and TV.
My apologies dear readers for the tardiness of the blog but the internet was very slow in Rolampont, making access difficult to the site.

Friday 15th September - Foulain to Rolampont

As Roger and Yvonne (sorry readers, got the ladys' name wrong - a very quick introduction in the rain) were leaving at 9 and us at 10, we had to untie and re-position the boat on the pontoon.  We set off just before 10 a.m. to reach our first lock at 10.  To our surprise our nice young eclusier was on duty again, with his cheery smile!  Crew was having fun practising her French on him, whereas he was practising his English on her - strange conversation!
The weather was much kinder today, without the cold wind of yesterday and the occasional short sunny spell but in our last lock, the heavens opened again!!  Having stayed dry so far, it was very annoying to get soaked again.  Crew had actually got her waterproof trousers ready but didn't get the chance to don them as the rain came so suddenly!  Our lovely eclusier offered to hold on to my line in order for me to fetch my waterproofs.......everyones' idea of a perfect son, I think!  We arrived in Rolampont around one o'clock and moored behind Out of the Blue.  Whilst we were drying the boat a cruiser came in the opposite direction, looking for a place to moor - we offered for them to raft alongside us which they did.  We had managed to get our rain canopy up as we had decided to stay for at least two nights.....a tricky operation since we had a couple of broken zips making it a difficult task.  Whilst lunching up on deck we enjoyed some sun, then rain then sun again......quite amazing how much the temperature drops when it rained.  Of course the boat was wet again and the skippers' chair emitted a cloud of steam every time the sun appeared!
Skip went to the village for a recce (nice and handy to the port) and reported back that the hotel was closed down and the restaurant closed but there was a nice boulangerie.  The plus point about the port was that it was free, including good electricity and water which meant we could use our electric heater to warm the cabins.
Crew cooked dinner and we watched a few DVDs - we couldn't manage to get TV.  Roger had a theory that as our satellite dish is mounted on the metal mast, it blocked reception so we decided to turn the boat around tomorrow.

13.5 km 7 locks 3 1/4 hours

Thursday 14th September - Chaumont to Foulain

We had told the VNF that we would leave at 9 a.m. but it was tipping down so we left it for an hour and finally left Chaumont at 10 a.m. after being there for a week.  Unfortunately it was still raining - pretty heavily at times.  After two locks we entered into a manned zone, losing our 'zapper' and a very nice young man was our eclusier with a young lady and another young man joining him at our fifth lock.  They must think we're crazy travelling in this awful weather - if they don't, I certainly do!!!  At least Crew could disappear below between locks but poor Skip got absolutely soaked!  Not only that but it was also very cold!!  The sun actually appeared just before our fourth lock and managed to stay out for our next two locks - what a difference!  But unfortunately just before our sixth lock the heavens opened and really heavy rain fell, soaking everything again......especially poor Skip!  Crew is dreaming of November in Lanzarote!!!!
We arrived in Foulain just before 2 p.m. but as there were only two pontoons which were occupied we had to raft up alongside 'Out of the Blue' a very nice barge flying a British ensign.  The couple, Roger and Yvonne were on their deck, inviting us to go alongside.  We didn't mess about too much with settling in as we wanted to get warm and dry.....Skip, in particular, was completely wet through!
We had a late lunch then later Skip went into the village for a quick look around. There was a boulangerie, a restaurant and a coiffure but Skips' eyes settled on a garage so came back to collect our fuel container, then made two trips for fuel.  Normally we would top up our tanks in a port but that facility has not been available to us on this trip so Skip is getting a little anxious that we are running a bit low.
We decided against trying the restaurant as we had been eating out quite a lot recently so Crew prepared a cottage pie for dinner - winter comfort food!!  We watched a film called Kingsman, which was a bit like a Bond film......needless to say, Skip enjoyed it rather more than Crew!

13.6 km 8 locks 4 hours

Wednesday 13th September - Chaumont

We are getting to know Chaumont pretty well by now - personally I would have chosen a more convenient place to spend a week but there you have it!!  The plumber arrived at 10.15 - very good for France - and was very thorough, even trying to remove the whole toilet!  He couldn't quite make it but anyway, it seemed that we needed a new part that is special to our Dutch toilet.  This meant that the facility would be unavailable until we get back to St. Jean de Losne and get a proper repair.  Plan B again folks - time for a discussion!!
It was decided that Andy and Sally would stay in the hotel again tonight, move on to  Epernay tomorrow then Reims as planned on Friday.  Such a shame.......just goes to prove that you can't rely on any plans where boating is concerned!!  The three of them took the car up to the hotel then, after a reviving beer or two, walked back down to the boat, where Crew had prepared some lunch.
We spent the afternoon playing silly games - it rained all day!
We ordered a taxi to take us all up to the hotel at 7 p.m. so that Andy and Sally could book in again and then we would all have our last dinner.  Skip and Crew walked round the town to find a nice restaurant but to no avail......we decided to eat at the hotel instead.  The food was very passable and we managed to have a lovely evening.  We asked the man at Reception to call us a taxi to take us back to the boat but after several calls this was not possible - it was almost 11 p.m. by now!  So we walked the 2 kilometres down the hill - luckily it had stopped raining!
No TV........just a digestif and bed!

Tuesday 12th September - Chaumont

Just the finishing off jobs today so Skip got started, cleaning the guest shower and toilet, awaiting Crews' approval!  Then......disaster!!  Just as he was finishing the cleaning he discovered that the toilet no longer flushed!  Although we have two toilets the one for the main cabin is in the cabin itself, making night time trips very difficult!!  So we have a dilemma.......Andy and Sally were arriving around 1 p.m.
Skip went to the Capitaine to ask her to contact a plumber for us which she finally managed to do but not until after 4 p.m.  So we waited.......and waited. Meanwhile, deciding that the toilet would not be fixed today a room in town was booked for Andy and Sally.  At 6.30 Skip went over to the Capitainerie and reported the 'no show' - our Capitaine was 'desolee'!
When the driver came to pick us up for dinner at 7.30 he asked about the plumber and had a conversation with our Capitaine. He said he would make sure we had a plumber in the morning.....progress!  We managed to have a really excellent dinner, this time in the restaurant proper and afterwards Andy and Sally walked the short distance to their hotel and we got our lift back to the port.
On and off weather today - we managed to sit on deck for most of the afternoon and not too much rain......thank goodness for small mercies!!
We watched TV as Andy had brought us a new digibox for us from England which we had posted to his address.  It caused a little consternation at Customs when they were stopped on the way over!
Both tired with the emotions and disappointment of the day, so not too late to bed!

Monday 11th September - Chaumont

More cleaning and jobs today - then Crew decided she needed some exercise, so walked the 2 km to the supermarket with Skip.  And then about another kilometre around the enormous LeClerc!!  We were very lucky that we missed the rain, although there was still that cold wind to deal with!  Crew was keen to buy a replacement small baking dish but surprisingly, the kitchen department was very small - with no baking dishes of any sort, despite walking around for some time!  We were hoping to find somewhere to have a restoring beer but the only place available was a little bistro which was full.    So back to Aphrodite for refreshment, followed by lunch.
We had arranged for a complimentary ride to the Hotel des Ramparts where we had dined with Steve and Janette.  We wanted to give the restaurant a try, as oppose to the bistro but unfortunately it was closed on Mondays.  The food and service was still excellent and we were delivered back to the boatas well.  Digestifs, A DVD and bed.

Sunday 10th September - Chaumont

Boat cleaning started in earnest now - poor Skip keeps cleaning windows, only to have it rain on them!  Yesterday evenings' hailstones were just about the limit!!  This weather is getting to be rather depressing......Crew is thinking of her lovely open fire at home!!  If only it could make its' mind up - we get sunny spells when it's quite pleasant, although still with a cold wind, then it pours with rain.  Just as well Andy and Sally will have their wet weather golfing gear with them!!
On Friday morning just before 8 a.m. a bread van arrived, so Skip bought bread - unfortunately we haven't seen it since and as the nearest shop is at least 20 minutes' walk away we have opted to use our new toaster.  So a toasty lunch today.
A mixture of jobs and relaxation today, retiring below frequently to avoid the rain!  Crew cooked dinner - then a quiet evening with a few DVDs.

Saturday 9th September - Chaumont

Crew woke late so therefore the jobs started late!  Whilst Skip cleaned the outside of the boat, Crew scrubbed the saloon carpet - it gets a lot of traffic and very dirty with such wet weather as we are having!  The plan is to replace it over this winter.......it has served us well for 10 years now.
Skip did the long trek up the hill to find the station and to check for taxis for when our guests, Andy and Sally return to Chaumont to retrieve their car at the end of their stay with us.  There was a taxi rank but .......no taxis!  So Skip went to the Tourist Office and obtained a number for a taxi service as it was too long a walk with luggage - a good half an hour!  Chaumont is turning out to be not very convenient, to say the least!
We didn't do a lot for the rest of the day - just the usual lunch, a few more jobs and Crew cooked dinner.  The weather in the afternoon was good enough for Skip to manage a siesta on deck for a change but otherwise not warm enough for any other outdoor activity!

Friday 8th September - Chaumont

We had plenty of time before Andy and Sally were to join us, so we didn't exactly rush around to start  preparing the boat.  A nice lie in was very welcome!  Our priority however, was to move the boat - that lump of concrete was still a threat!!  We moved in behind Janette and Steve around eleven o'clock then Skip cleaned the outside of the boat whilst Crew cleaned our cabin.  As it was a grey, cool, windy day all the bits from the trees blew all over Skips' nice clean boat - he was not best pleased!!  Disappointingly it was even too cool and windy to lunch outside so we had to retire below - we had really hoped for an Indian summer since August had not been that good, weather wise!  Not to be, obviously!  Needles to say dinner was also taken downstairs - it also started to rain around midnight which continued all through the night!  DVDs and bed.

Thursday 7th September - Vieville to Chaumont

We had been hoping to stop overnight in Bologne but on paper the mooring didn't look that good so we decided to go straight to Chaumont with Janette and Steve.  It made a change to share the locks and our two boats fitted them perfectly.  At our third lock there were truffles for sale - we declined to buy as Crew was not an expert with truffles, to say the least but Janette bought some........must ask her what she intends to do with them!  Our fourth lock of the day was another 3.9 metres, added to which Skips' bollard was hidden behind some railings, resulting in wet rope (and boat) and quite a lot of cursing!  In the end he had to climb the ladder in order to get secured.  Crews' hobby of inspecting lock keepers' houses is slightly different now as most of them are occupied so now she is giving them marks out of ten for attractiveness!  Most of them have been built in the late 1800s (as well as the locks I presume) and have stood the test of time, being robustly built.  Some of them still have their original wells.  Just before our last lock into Chaumont was a small tunnel, just over 300 metres long.
We arrived in Chaumont around 1 p.m., rather disappointed to see the state of the moorings!  The bollards were big fat concrete things which were too close together........a good fit for a 10 metre boat but not for us.  Hence it took us longer than usual to secure ourselves - we had the added problem of negotiating a bollard that had imploded on itself, leaving a large jagged piece of concrete pointing straight at our topside!  Three fat fenders were brought into use and later checked when a commerce passed by!!  Not an ideal berth for 5 nights - the plan was to move as soon as possible!
Unbeknown to us it was Steves' birthday so Janette had asked the Capitaine about possible restaurants. The town was a good 20 minute walk up a steep hill so she arranged for the restaurant owner to pick us all up at 7.30 p.m. for dinner in town and for us to be driven back afterwards.  Great service!  And indeed, even though we chose the Brasserie menu, the quality was very good, served by a very helpful young lady.  The arrangement was that there were two buffets, one for starters and the other for dessert, both of which were very good quality and then four or five options for a main course.  We were driven back to the port again after a lovely evening!

16.5 km 8 locks 1 tunnel 4 hours

Wednesday 6th September - Froncles to Vieville

We were glad that we had said we would leave at 10 o'clock, unlike Steve and Janette who had opted for 8.30 as it was cold and grey with spits of rain so early and by ten it was slightly improved.  Our first lock was fine but the second, at 3.9 metres deep involved put our lines on bollards in the filthy wall then having to move them up as we rose in the lock - a tricky operation as it meant the lines getting wet and very dirty.  Much prefer our locks to be no deeper than 3.5 metres!!  There was a swing bridge just before the mooring at Vieville for which we had to summon a lock keeper to operate - he arrived within minutes, opening the bridge and allowing us through.  Unfortunately there was no room for us on the long pontoon but Steve and Janette were moored on the end and invited us to raft up alongside them.  All the other boats moored, apart from one French cruiser looked like permanent berths, including one very long barge......which is somewhat unfair on passing traffic.  Skip dashed into the village to find bread in the little general store - he got the last baguette!
We didn't bother to connect to the power just for one night so we got settled and had some lunch.  Janette invited us for 6 o'clock drinks so Crew spent part of the afternoon preparing a quick dinner again.  We spent another pleasant couple of hours imbibing and chatting - sampling a delicious drink that they had brought with them from Blighty...... an apple brandy suffused with a little fruit juice.  Very nice!  Back on board Crew served up dinner which unfortunately had to be taken below as it was not as balmy as the previous two nights.  DVD and bed.

9 km 3 locks 2 hours

Tuesday 5th September - Froncles

We had decided to stay a second night in this comfortable port, even though it meant self catering again.  The weather was following a pattern - cold and grey in the mornings but gradually warming up during the day.  Crew changed the bed and put the machine on, hoping for some good,drying weather later and Skip did his usual supermarket run, intending to find the boulangerie for bread.  However the bread he brought back was purchased in the supermarket.......in Skips' words 'Couldn't be ars...d to walk further up the hill'!  Steve and Janette on Calypso arrived in port around 11 o'clock and when Janette walked by later Crew invited them for drinks at 6 p.m. So, after lunch, Crew set about preparing a Thai (style) Chicken Curry for our meal after aperos.
It started to rain so there was a rush to bring the washing in - again no rain was forecast!
Steve and Jeanette duly arrived and it was nice to get to know them as we had met three years ago in Moissac but as it was at the Fete Nautique that the Capitainerie had organised there were a lot of people there and we didn't really have much contact.  We whiled away a very pleasant couple of hours or so then they went their way for their dinner and Crew put the finishing touches to the curry.
We still managed to dine outside but went below afterwards for more Line of Duty then bed.

Monday 4 th September - Donjeux to Froncles

Crew woke late again so we set off as the clock in the village was chiming 10. There were two VNF men at our first lock, clearing weed and as it was almost 4 metres deep, Crew struggled to reach up and secure her line to the bollard.  One of the men ran round the lock and secured the line......nice man!  The following locks were not quite so deep, making life much easier!  Although there was a lack of sunshine, the temperature had improved by midday and did not distract from the beautiful surrounding countryside.  We didn't know what to expect of the moorings at Froncles as a report from the Dutch Barge Association had reported that they were 'average' but we found it to be a lovely port with a long wooden pontoon and plentiful mooring rings.  There was a well kept area alongside with space for motor homes and caravans, a boules court and even a Capitainerie with a shower block and washing machine, etc.  Crew had a little wander around crossing a green bridge over the Marne.....plenty of water around here.
We had some lunch - no fresh bread this morning, so we used the new toaster we bought in Joinville for toast and pate de foie.  Skip had one of his famous 'power naps' - which lasted 45 minutes!  By now the sun was shining and with a temperature of around 24/25 degrees, Crew decided a little sunbathing was in order, so dusted off her bikini and had a 45 minute session on the front deck.  And to think a t-shirt, sweater and coat was the order of the day earlier!!  Then around five o'clock we walked into town for an exploration.  Our maps told us that there was a good restaurant nearby but we decided to look for the supermarket and boulangerie first and find the restaurant on our way back.  The little town was very spread out......there was a tabac (open) and a coiffure (closed) together then a ten minute walk away a Carrefour Express which was very good for a small supermarket.  Skip said he would look for the boulangerie tomorrow morning.  Now, for the restaurant........well, it seemed that it had disappeared!  We walked up and down several times but the area it should have been in looked most unsuitable - the back of a big workshop doing something with wood!  We ambled back to Aphrodite, scratching our heads!
So back to the galley for Crew!  We managed to dine on the aft deck before retiring below for another DVD then bed.

12.5 km 5 locks 2 1/2 hours

Sunday 3rd September - Joinville to Donjeux

Crew woke fairly late again so we didn't get going until just before 10 a.m. - in fact the mist was rather thick so by then it was starting to clear.  All the locks were our way for a change so, with the sun warming us up and layers being discarded, it was a lovely cruise through the beautiful Champagne-Bourgogne countryside. We did have to empty the filter once as the weed had increased somewhat.  We moored just before midday on a pontoon with space for just 3/4 boats of our size.  Crew finished listening to The Archers while Skip secured the boat and plugged in to the power.  With the sun now shining, a lovely stopping place!  Skip did a recce and discovered a hotel/ bar/ restaurant just the other side of the bridge - unfortunately, closed down!
So lunch on deck whilst the sun was shining, albeit a bit hazy.  Crew cooked a spaghetti bolognaise for dinner which was consumed below however as the temperature drops considerably after 6 p.m.
A couple of DVDs and bed.

11 km 4 locks 2 hours

Saturday 2nd September - Joinville

Another misty start to the day - definitely an autumnal feel to the mornings and evenings, which seems a bit unfair since August wasn't all that good!!  After a short discussion, we decided to stay another night and move on tomorrow.  So while Crew put the washing on Skip went to the supermarket (again!), booking a table for us in the restaurant for dinner on his way back.
We toyed with the idea of walking into Joinville but as it was a 2/3 km walk and there didn't seem to be a lot to see we decided against it.  Just our usual lunch then - unfortunately below deck as there was a chill wind gusting and the sun, when it came, was behind the trees.
Around 5 o'clock it started to rain.  Hoping it wouldn't  be heavy or last too long, Crew left the washing out but it soon became clear that it wasn't going to stop soon.  So everything was grabbed from the rails and just in time for then it pelted down very heavily!  Luckily it had dried up before our 8 o'clock dinner date.  The meal we had was only average - the scallops were overlooked and the duck was tough.  We have decided that the hotel in Chamouilley was far superior.
Our DVD of choice was Line of Duty - not too late to bed.

Friday 1st September - Joinville

There hasn't been a lot of boat traffic on this canal at all but, for some reason three boats passed by before 8 a.m., two of which were commercial barges.  They need to stick to the centre of the Canal to keep enough depth of water so they pass by us very close!  Crew went with Skip to the supermarket and we came back with a toaster and a new shaver for Skip as well as other essentials.  Although the morning had started with a heavy mist over the water and pretty cold (real autumn weather!) the sun was now doing its' best to warm us up so we stopped at the hotel and partook of a couple of beers.....rude not to!!  After lunch and a rest, Crew did a couple of jobs whilst Skip cleaned some windows.  Janette and Steve on Calypso had arrived whilst we were at the supermarket, along with an Australian crew we had seen before so we were no longer 'Billy no mates'.
For some reason Skip seems to have a penchant for buying steak hache (minced beef) so Crew decided to make steak tartare for dinner with some sauté potatoes which we had to eat below unfortunately as it was too cold to stay up top.  We watched another episode of Wolf Hall but decided two of those was a bit heavy so we watched Vera for an hour, then bed.

Thursday 31 st August - Chevillon to Joinville

Crew didn't wake until almost ten o'clock so we left the mooring around 11 a.m.  We seemed to have lost our summer weather - it had rained pretty heavily overnight meaning that everything was soaking wet and the temperature had plummeted from the high twenties to around 14/15 degrees!  Sweaters and coats had to be donned, although we both still wore shorts!  Luckily the rain held off and we arrived in Joinville around one o'clock.  There were two moorings available in this town - we passed the first one which looked pretty good but thought we would have a look at the furthest one, thinking it would be nearer the town centre.  On balance, we decided to turn and moor at the first spot, outside a charming small hotel, called hotel de la Vinaigrerie with a nice wooden pontoon and power bornes.  There was a board informing us of the facilities, including a large supermarket just 200 metres away.  We settled in and as usual, Skip went off to the supermarket after lunch to top up our supplies.  As there was also a service station near the supermarket, he did five runs for diesel as our tanks were getting low.
We decided to try the hotel for dinner as it had a good write up in Trip Advisor ( not always foolproof I know!).  It was quite a limited menu with just a choice of four starters and four main courses (one of which was not available.....the one that Crew chose!) but very good quality.  On balance, we decided the hotel in Chamouilley was better, both for quality and value.  No aft deck digestifs as there was a definite chill in the air, so a couple of episodes of Vera and bed.

12 km 6 locks 2 1/2 hours

Wednesday 30th August - Chamouilley to Chevillon

We left our lovely Chamouilley at 10 a.m., again not knowing for sure where we would end up.  Crew rather likes these ' mystery tours'!  Approaching our first lock very close to the mooring we noticed another boat creep up behind us - hmm......company for the first time!  Crew was seriously hoping that the locks weren't too violent as now, we would be right up front.  No problem as the first lock filled from underneath and all was well, if a bit tight.  Our lock companions were two Swiss men on a twin-engined steel boat,who clearly knew what they were doing so there were no problems, apart from keeping ourselves from the front of the lock and them keeping themselves from the back.  He had the same problem as us with weed in his filter but being twin engined he could keep going on one engine whilst clearing the other side - we had to stop once to clear ours. We successfully locked through five times with them and moored in Chevillon, waving them 'goodbye'.  We managed to tie our aft line onto a metal spike but had to use our mooring pins for the forward and central lines.  The water was very high, meaning that all fenders had to be lowered.
We got settled and had some lunch, during which the VNF turned up to cut the grass.  A very polite young man came to inform us that this was happening.  Crew walked up to the bridge to investigate the restaurant on the other side of the canal - it didn't look all that interesting......if, indeed it was open at all.  Decided on making steak tartare for dinner.
Skip went to help a lone Dutchman in - we already had another boat moored behind us.  A little later he came over to us and asked us to,join him for a drink but we reversed the invitation and he came aboard for a beer.  Although Dutch Joe, had lived in London for many years and was divorced.  He said that he was giving up the cruising to find other things to do.  He stayed until almost 9 p.m. - of course, it was now too late to make dinner so we made do with cheese.  We watched a DVD and bed.

11 km 5 locks 2 1/2 hours

Tuesday 29th August - Chamouilley

We decided to stay another night to make sure that Crew was match fit, with thoughts about a nice dinner at the hotel!  Throughout the day the temperature soared to well over 30c and with hardly any wind - much too hot to do anything strenuous!!
Skip went to get bread (in the mini-market......the boulangerie was closed for holidays) and we had lunch on deck.
We went over to the hotel at 8 p.m. and took a table on the terrace.  We decided on the slightly higher priced menu at €34 - still four courses!  Something went wrong with our order for our starter.  There were two dishes involving foie gras, one with scallops and prawns and the other a warm foie gras and salad.  We thought we had ordered the warm entree but instead received the 'surf and turf' option - not sure whether it was a 'customer error' or a 'waiter error'........the former I suspect!  Crew has threatened to order for herself in future!!  The outside terrace was full and the two waiting staff very busy but still extremely efficient........another good meal.
As it was still warm we just had a digestif on deck and bed.......no DVD tonight!

Monday 28th August - Chamouilley

A lovely lie in this morning - could get used to it!!  It was a beautiful day with a promise of some serious heat to come so Skip cleaned the outside of the boat as soon as possible before it got too hot. Around ten o'clock the Belgian 'chicken boat' arrived.  To our surprise the crew was two women.....and still two chickens!    They released the chickens for a scratch about which I suppose was a good thing but Crew still can't forgive them for abandoning them overnight!
Crew had weighed herself in the morning and was not best pleased......self inflicted, I know! So a new regime was in order.
The plan was to see if the restaurant was open for lunch so we walked into the village to find that it was!  We asked for  a table 'exterieur' and found ourselves seated on a little terrace at the back of the hotel.  What a find!  Impeccable service and a delicious 4 course menu for €27 with a pichet of good wine around €8.  Skip was also very happy with the Leffe blonde draught beer!  We staggered back to the boat, thoroughly replete!!  A siesta was definitely on the cards after such a lovely lunch!!  The diet will have to start tomorrow, unless........!!
A lazy afternoon and evening with the joy of a beautiful sunset, followed by the last three episodes of  the second series of Line of Duty (another programme we didn't manage to watch at home).  Crew had now developed a painful shoulder blade (going downhill fast!) so we haven't decided whether or not to leave tomorrow.....will think about that in the morning!

Sunday 27 th August - St. Dizier to Chamouilley

We weren't quite sure where we were making for but the Scottish lady on Calypso said they were thinking of stopping at Chamouilley......so that was an idea!  We left just after 9.30 as we had agreed that time with a VNF man yesterday.  Our first obstacle was a lifting bridge which had a red light so we used the zapper but to no avail.  On checking our paperwork we discovered that it was a manual bridge.......then why the light??  Skip called and a VNF man finally got us through.  Travelling towards our second lock we heard the ominous rumble of thunder and a couple of flashes of lightening.  Having checked our various weather forecasts, the chance of rain was minimal.......unfortunately storms seem to fall where they want to!!  By the time we got into the lock it was chucking it down - have discovered that my showerproof jacket was just that - only showerproof!!  We both got soaked!!  Not being exactly sure where the mooring was, we thought we had another lock but by some kind of miracle, a lovely mooring pontoon appeared before the lock, with bollards and.........electricity!  We moored in double quick time and dived below to dry out.  After about 20 minutes the rain stopped and the sun came out - talk about bad timing!!
After lunch Skip went into the village and came back with good news - there was a butcher, a mini-market, a restaurant and in the village on the other side of the canal a boulangerie.  No pharmacie or coiffure!!!  Of course, being Sunday, everything was closed but we held on to the hope that they would all be open tomorrow.
We spent a lazy evening on deck with an easy supper before retiring below for our nightly fix of Poldark!  We watched the last two episodes (we thought) and were considering bed when Skip discovered that there was still one last episode - we had to watch it, so late to bed.

8 km 2 locks 1 lifting bridge 2 hours

Saturday 26th August - St. Dizier

A lovely lie in as we've decided to stay for a couple of nights.  Skip then set about cleaning the lock grime from Aphrodites' hull and fenders whilst Crew took the Dyson round.  Skip needed to get a document printed off to sign and send to England so walked to the Tourist Office which was a good walk.  He was successful and came back with forms to sign, then to post them to Blighty at the Post Office.  On his Tourist Office trip he had a good meander around the town, taking pictures.  It seemed that St. Dizier was a much nicer town than at first thought with some very attractive buildings and quite a few bars and restaurants, even though many of them are still closed for August!  On closer inspection Skip found that the Miko tower was not an ice cream museum after all (shame!) but a shopping complex with no shops - just a cinema!
We passed the afternoon in the usual way then went into town for dinner just before 8 p.m.  We got to the main square and found just two restaurants and a bar open so,plumped for the Italian one, L'Indus which looked to be the most popular.  Indeed it was pretty full and the tables very close together - people were still coming in after 9 p.m.  We chose the set menu - foie gras to start, followed by scallops and a cafe gourmand to finish.  Altogether very good.
Digestifs and another Poldark before bed.

Friday 25th August - Orconte to St. Dizier

We pulled out our mooring pins around 10 a.m. and set off on our short cruise to St. Dizier.  Crew could hear the chickens clucking so guess they were OK but no sign of the boats' owner neither last night nor this morning - it looked like a liveaboard boat, flying a Belgian ensign.  Crew still very uncomfortable about the chickens!
We got into a comfortable routine locking up - we now had a 'zapper' so everything automatic.  The Canal was very straight with the occasional village to look at.  On reaching the outskirts of St. Dizier, it was indeed very industrial.  As our charts we're not very up to date we made for the appointed mooring place but the depth gauge plummeted as we approached so we aborted that idea - there were no other boats there in any case and it looked very weedy.  Skip pointed out a couple of bollards beside a big industrial building which Crew dismissed immediately as a 'no go'- would rather tie up with spikes on a bank somewhere!
We pressed on, having to go through two more locks to reach a long quay with plenty of bollards and power  bournes.  On one side was a nautical centre (which we discovered was in fact, a swimming pool complex) and on the other the Miko ice cream factory.
After lunch and rest, Skip went into town for 'a bit of shopping' and a look at the restaurant we had planned for dinner, which was actually visible from the boat.  We strolled over just before 8 p.m. and enjoyed just a single course - Skip had an enormous steak tartare and Crew two large pieces of very flavoursome steak......both served with real frites!!  Fantastic!  As we were both very full (Crew had to ask for a doggy bag for one piece of her steak) we refused a dessert and since we still had wine left, took it with us too.  A very good quality meal.  The only problem was that there was not an outside terrace - a shame on such a balmy evening!
We finished the wine and enjoyed a couple of digestifs on the back deck, then a DVD and bed.  We are watching Poldark and enjoying it very much even though we never watched the very first series.

16 1/2 km 8 locks 3 1/2 hours

Thursday 24th - August - Vitry-Le-Francois to Orconte

We left our tight mooring, with the aid of our neighbours who kindly moved back to allow us a bit more space, just before 10a.m.  We are now on the Canal de la Marne a la Saone - the Canal between Champagne and Burgundy - a Canal really built for commercial barges.  The first lock was a dirty beast and 3.3 metres deep......the wrong day to choose to wear a white t-shirt!!  Also these locks are more violent as the water cascades into the lock as opposed to filling from underneath, making for a rocky ride!  However, they did improve as we went along.  We arrived in Orconte at 12.30 p.m. And secured ourselves on mooring pins.  Skip then went further along to find a small quay with bollards and electricity - we decided not to move as electricity was not necessary and we were comfortable under the trees.  Crew then walked along to look, passing the boat in front of us to hear strange noises as she passed.  On further inspection, she discovered two live chickens in a cage on the back deck - no sign of an owner!  Unsettling!!
 After the usual lunch and siesta, Skip went into the village.  Our books said there was a boulangerie, butcher, restaurants and bar.......only the boulangerie survives!!  However, Skip did manage to take a picture of a Champagne bar - sadly, turned into a house, no longer operational!
So again, no restaurant - galley duties for Crew!  A lady came to collect money, we thought just from the two boats ahead of us on the proper mooring near the power bourne but no.........she came and demanded €8 from us too!  Crew was incandescent.....no power and not even a bollard!!!  It would be understandable if it was in a town with lots of facilities but here, in the middle of nowhere - words fail me!!
A supper of Spaghetti bolognaise ( although with tagliatelle as is proper!) on the back deck as it is still quite warm for a change, followed by a DVD and bed.

12.5 km 6 locks 2 1/2 hours

Wednesday 23 rd August - Chausee-sur-Marne to Vitry-Le-Francois

Our spikes held well and we left just before 9.30 a.m.  The locks all went well with no problems until our fourth one which was deeper than all the rest at 3.56 m deep.  This lock was made for commercial barges and therefore the bollards were too far apart for the likes of us and without the facility of a sliding pole we had to attach to the bollards halfway up in the slime of the lock walls, the idea being that we move our lines up as we ascended.  As these locks seem to fill from underneath somehow instead of gushing out at us at great speed it made for a much calmer ride!
We made very good time and arrived in Vitry just before midday.  However the berth was extremely tight and it took us over half an hour to get fully secured.  Some lunch and a siesta, then Skip went into town searching for the ever elusive restaurant for the evening (and of course, a bit of shopping!).
The restaurant we had fancied which was closed on our previous visit turned out to be only open on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.........today is Wednesday!!  How is that for luck?  Other than that a kebab house or two, a pizzeria and a mediocre brasserie were available - we decided on the brasserie.
We turned up just after 8 o'clock and had a not too bad main course of assorted fish, followed by a very good cafe gourmand (a small strong coffee with a mini selection of their desserts).  The whole effect was somewhat spoiled though by the staff stacking up the tables and chairs.......at 9.30 p.m!  As  Crew is a slow eater, this was not appreciated!
We walked back to Aphrodite and enjoyed digestifs on the back deck.

13 km 5 locks 2 1/2 hours

Tuesday 22nd August - Chalons-en-Champagne to La Chaussee-sur- Marne

We decided on a short run to Chausee, where we had stopped with Martin and Clare and enjoyed a superb dinner.  Unfortunately when Skip mailed the restaurant we were informed that they were closed until tomorrow but we decided to go anyway.  We left a very empty marina at 10.15 a.m.  As we approached the mooring, two boats were departing - a lunch stop I guess.  The mooring bollards were too far apart so we had to use spikes.  When we were here with Martin and Clare our spike was pulled out of the ground by the undertow of a commerce, so Skip put two spikes in.......belt and braces!  It had been an easy trip in beautiful sunshine - summer at last!
We had a lazy lunch on deck, then usual siesta.  We didn't bother to go into the village as there wasn't much to see and no shops for Skip!!
At about 6.45 the little orange yacht with the two Brits aboard went by, rather fast.  As the next lock was a good 20/25 minutes away and the locks close at 7 p.m., we were not quite sure where they would stop for the night!
Crew cooked a chicken dinner, then we stayed up top for quite a while until it started to get a bit chilly.  One DVD and bed.

17.5 km 3 locks 3 hours

Monday 21 st August - Chalons-en-Champagne

Skip cleaned the outside of the boat whilst Crew was still having a lovely lie in, although she managed to do a bit of cleaning and curtain washing before lunch.  When Skip went into town for groceries he stopped at the Tourist Office to ask if there was an electrical shop in town to replace our Sky box......he was shown a shop which was quite a distance from where we were - nevertheless, he decided to walk there after lunch.  He likes something to do. When he had gone two fishermen turned up, one with a nice dog.  There was suddenly a lot of shouting which turned out to be one of them screaming down his phone at someone - this lasted for about fifteen minutes, making it difficult to concentrate on anything!  After his tirade they decided to set up right outside our aft cabin and put music on.......so much for a siesta!!!  I always thought that French people were ultra aware of anti-social behaviour - not in the case of fishermen it seems!  Crew turned the radio up!  Our nice French neighbours had taken their dog for a walk before this happened and, on their return, must have told them to disappear as they legged it rapidly!!  Great.....radio down again!  Too late for a siesta now!

We went out for dinner just before 8 o'clock and walked to the main square only to discover that the only restaurant that was open was the one we had had lunch in yesterday, La Bourse.  With no competition, the food was only average.  DVD and bed.

Sunday 20th August - Conde to Chalons-en-Champagne

We left our mooring at 9.15 much to Crews' surprise - thought 10 a.m. was our departure time!  The plan was to get to Chalons in time for lunch which was attainable since we only had a short run.  For a nice change, the weather was kind with plenty of sun.......Skip even had to don a cap as the sun was in his face the whole way!  We arrived just before midday and, while Crew listened to the end of the Archers omnibus, Skip settled us in.  We walked into town, looking for lunch and got to the main square to find about fifty per cent of the restaurants open......Sunday lunchtime!!  We settled on one
which turned out to be very acceptable, although the waiting staff were somewhat harassed as it was pretty busy and two of them asked us which dessert we would like before we had received our main course!!
Back to Aphrodite for a siesta as neither of us had had a particularly good night.  We thought we would try our DVD of Wolf Hall as we had missed it on TV at home........a mixed reception - Skip enjoyed it far more than Crew!

16 km 3 locks 2 1/2 hours

Saturday 19th August - Sillery to Conde

A slight drama before bed last night.  Crew was closing the window in the cabin and somehow her bracelet got stuck in the window frame!!  It was a good fifteen minutes before Skip freed her with the aid of the Leatherman - thoughts of spending the night trying to sleep standing up and attached to the window went through my mind......the bracelet had to be broken however!!
The plan was to leave at 9 a.m. but unfortunately, a commerce beat us to it.  So we gave him 15 minutes or so to clear.......not enough time I'm afraid as he was very slow and we caught him up at our first lock resulting in a lengthy wait.  Not good news at all as it will elongate our day by some hours - we had three locks to ascend, the Mont-de-Billy tunnel to navigate and then 8 descending locks - our only slim hope was that he could stop on the way but it was a slim hope!  During the 5 km run between our third lock and the tunnel we managed to catch him up, reducing our speed considerably! The only good thing is that the yellow orb in the sky was shining down on us at last and although the wind was a little chilly the day was warming up nicely.
Another commerce came by in the opposite direction causing our man in front to move to,the right of the Canal and once they had passed each other the commerce in front stayed to the right and slowed down even more, allowing us to overtake.  Hence we got to the tunnel much quicker than expected.  Two boats emerged from the opposite direction and then we got the green light.  It takes around 20 minutes to pass through the tunnel and gets rather chilly!
After the tunnel the chain of eight lock went smoothly and we moored stern to in Conde again but this time on a low pontoon, really meant for smaller boats.
As we know that are no available victuals Skip had visited the boulangerie in Sillery for our lunch bread.  We had hoped finally to be able to dine on deck but unfortunately it was too chilly - I suppose at least it was not raining!  Our Sky box had decided not to co-operate, so DVDs instead of TV after dinner.

24 km 11 locks 5 hours