Monday 29th August - Valence to Andancette

An early start was planned as we weren't sure whether we could moor for the night in Andancette or would have to cruise a further 28 km and another lock to Les Roches de Condrieu, so we left port at 7.40 a.m.  Unusually on approaching our first lock of the day, the eclusier, when called up on VHF replied to Skip in English (obviously some work needs to be done on Skips' French accent!).  Initially he said that the wait would be 40 minutes but within 20 minutes the lock was ready for us.  He started to close the gate when he spotted a Swiss cruiser coming so he raised the gate again, costing us ten or fifteen minutes.  About 5 km from our next lock saw us cruising through Hermitage country, with vineyards climbing the hills each side of us.  The lady eclusier surprised us by also speaking pretty good English and she told us that she was ready for us so we put on a bit more speed to hurry the operation up.  When we got near the lock, however, only a red light greeted us so we had to wait. There was a British narrow boat locking down, who was admonished by the lock keeper for untying before he had the green light and who seemed to emerge from the lock very slowly.  Apart from Aphrodite and Cornelis k. there was a Swiss cruiser with us.  He started off by overtaking us then slowing down, putting himself between us and Henk.  He then slowed right down forcing us to overtake him........what was that all about?  Then when we were waiting for the lock, since he moored on the pontoon to wait, he was first in and first out, making us think that he was going for the one and only space in Andancette.  However, as he passed under the bridge at Andance, he carried straight on and we saw that the pontoon was free for us, so we tied up on the mooring and Henk rafted up alongside us.  As it was just about one o'clock when we had arrived, it was a good time to have some lunch, then Skip went ashore to explore.  Andancette is a hamlet on one side of the Rhone whilst the town of Andance is on the opposite bank.  There are three large crosses set on top of the hill behind the town, supposedly to represent three young ladies who, desperate for not seeing their fiances return from the crusades, threw themselves into the Rhone - quite a feat I must say!!  As it was Monday, the likelihood of a restaurant being open in town was low so Crew cooked dinner.  Wine, chat and bed.

43 km 2 locks 5 1/2 hours

Sunday 28th August - Valence

The plan was to go on the bikes into town for lunch but Crews' bike had problems (we don't use them much and are very slack on maintenance) and Crew was feeling very doubtful about her cycling proficiency, not having cycled for a couple of years!  In fact the previous expedition was exactly here, in Valence and it ended in tears!  Cycling back from lunch in town on a very hot day, I spotted a shady bench for a little rest.  Making for it rather faster than necessary, I fell off the bike with the handlebars digging into my chest - it took a good three weeks and two doctors' visits to recover!  In an attempt not to be considered a wimp, I decided on a little test run on Skips' bike but found the steering very wobbly.....so chickened out, I'm afraid!!  We had another lovely meal in the restaurant in the port........a nice long lunch.  After a bit of a rest, Henk and Skip took Cornelis k. to re-fuel as the fuel was reasonably priced.  The rest of the day was spent resting, occasionally chatting across the decks.

Saturday 27th August - Valence

We felt that we deserved a three day stop, as we have plenty of time on our hands and Valence is a nice city - if a bit of a distance to the centre.  Skip and Crew had another go at bleeding the aircon system - neither of us can believe how much water is coming out.  A few days ago we must have shifted about 120 litres and now another 60 litres.......where does it all come from?  We definitely need an aircon specialist as it looks like a fairly severe blockage somewhere!  For the moment, since it's so hot, we can only solve the problem short term.  Skip and Henk cycled to one of the big supermarkets for supplies and came back with all sorts of goodies!  Henk has a large crate which can be fixed to his electric bike which takes a lot of beer and wine!!  Nevertheless, he did a second trip!  It's fair to say that Henk is quite a picky eater so we have eaten lots of bread and cheese for our lunches - he is a cheeseaholic!  So yesterday we added a tin of corned beef to our repertoire and.......surprise, surprise....he liked it.  Bolstered by our success, we introduced a tin of red salmon to our menu - he liked that too!!  Steep learning curve!  We had a cold collation in the evening which was enough, given the heat!  The usual wine and chat and not too late to bed again!

Friday 26th August - Cruas to Valence

We left the harbour at 10.30 in glorious sunshine again - the temperature already at 30 degrees and a promise of 34/35 with not much wind either!  Our first lock was only 2 km away and was very slow.  On exiting the port we notice a large commercial vessel coming our way......so our first Rhone lock with a 'big boy'.  They always take priority so we tucked in behind him.  Another 18 km to our next lock - again pretty slow!  The surrounding countryside had taken on a much more attractive aspect, with rolling hills and the occasional little town.  We arrived in Valence at 3.30 p.m. - we had been assigned specific spaces but as the numbers were only visible once moored, we took a double bay each, as our assigned place would have been a bit of a tight squeeze, given Aphrodites' fat middle!!  We took our papers to the Capitainerie to register our presence and after explaining all to the Capitaine, he acquiesced and let us stay where we were!  It would have been a nice touch if the bar of the restaurant was open for a cold beer but alas, it was not!  So back to the boat for a snack and drink.  We decided on dinner in the restaurant so the men went over at 7 p.m. in order to secure a table - Crew followed ten minutes later.  The early evening sun was very hot shining on us - we had to be patient for it to disappear over the hill.......blessed relief when it did!  We had a very good meal, if a bit pricey!  A couple of digestifs on board and bed fairly early.

33 km. 2 locks. 5 hours

Thursday 25th August - Cruas

We badly needed another rest day so two nights in the attractive little harbour, albeit overlooked by a nuclear power plant and straddled by an electricity pylon!!  It feels surprisingly calm just off the mighty River Rhone!  Indeed a lazy day was required by all crew today, although Henk took his bike to the village (1.5 km) for supplies, Crew gave herself a bit of a 2,000 mile service and Skip didn't bother with anything much except preparing lunch!  Sorry - forgot to mention the 45 minutes spent emptying the water from the aircon.......will have to get it fixed in St. Jean de Losne.  We must have shifted well over 100 litres of water!  We invited Henk over at 7 p.m. for pre-dinner drinks, then made our way to the restaurant.  We all ordered grenouilles (frogs legs) and wine.  It was karaoke night there, but looking at the choice of songs to sing, we decided against participating!!  Not sure France is ready for our musical talents!!!  Well, we waited.....and waited......and waited!  After two hours, having reminded them that we still hadn't eaten, we decided to leave.....two hours of drinking wine on empty stomachs is not good!  They did present us with two complimentary small carafes of wine, suggesting that our order had been forgotten but we were so hungry by then, top priority was to get some food inside us.  We repaired to Aphrodite for bread and cheese, a bit of a chat and bed.

Wednesday 24th August - L'Ardoise to Cruas

We left at 9.30 - a little earlier than usual as we had quite a long run.  It promised to be another scorcher with not much wind.  We didn't clear our first lock until 11 a.m. as, firstly, we had to wait a while and then the filling of the lock was very slow.  About twenty minutes before reaching Bollene lock a cruiser came past at breakneck speed, rocking us ferociously for several minutes - no damage luckily but our two bedside lamps fell over and our glasses were re-arranged in our bar locker!!  Presumably he was racing for the lock as, when we arrived, he was nowhere to be seen!  We thought that we would have a long wait but it was only twenty minutes or so.  Just Aphrodite and Cornelis k. went through the lock.  Bollene is the deepest lock on the Rhone, built in 1952, it is 23 metres deep.  Despite this fact, it takes only seven minutes to ascend!  On exiting the lock, for some way we were dodging the many logs floating in the river.  Another couple of hours cruising saw us arrive in Viviers, to find that the marina was closed........in August!!  Disappointment as we had all had enough  of the 35 degree heat and another two hours or so cruising - not to mention another lock!  We tried to call the Capitaine in Cruas to be assured of two mooring spaces, without luck.  The signal was not up to scratch, as was Crews' French!  We arrived in the port of Cruas just before 7 o'clock to a nice welcome.  The Capitaine and a couple of other men helped us in........good job too - we weren't operating on all cylinders, so tired were we!  Roughly sorted and armed with instructions from the Capitaine as to the direction of the bar, we made a bee line for it!  The bar/restaurant was very rustic with straw on the ground and a sort of a dance floor - very basic but with lovely cold beer!  The same cannot be said for the white wine however.  The waitress was kept amused by the mens' deep thirst, especially Skip, who downed five beers in fairly quick succession!!  We deliberated for a nano-second whether or not to go back and change for dinner.......too tired and hungry for that!!  We all chose Moules/Frites which were not all that flavoursome but very, very welcome nevertheless!  Back to Aphrodite for a digestif then early to our wonderful beds!!  Exhausting day but satisfying!

73 km 3 locks 9 1/2 hours

 O

Tuesday 23rd August - Avignon to L'Ardoise

We slipped our moorings just after 10 o'clock and enjoyed a beautiful 8 km run under a perfect blue sky and not too much wind.  The Mistral had been blowing a fair bit for the last two days - good for drying washing but not so for cruising........we picked the timing just right.  We had not too long a wait for the Avignon lock and rose the 10m very sedately.  Five minutes or so out of the lock the Italian cruiser decided to up his speed and he raced between Aphrodite and Cornelis k. creating a huge wash and rocking us both off our feet!!  He then slowed completely and continued at the same speed as us........Italians eh!!  We arrived in Port L'Ardoise around one o'clock to find that the Capitainerie and indeed the bar/ restaurant was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - not such good planning!  We had a spot of lunch and some wine, all complaining about the heat since hardly a breath of wind was to be had.  When Skip had had too much he decided to go for a swim - the water is quite clean now.  Crew had a lovely cooling dip, then Henk came over for a swim as well.  We just had steak, salad and bread.....none of us very hungry due to the heat, then fairly early to bed.

29 km 1 lock 3hours

Monday 22nd August - Avignon

Although officially a rest day, chores still have to be done.  Both Henk and Crew had two loads of washing to do so whilst Crew used her own machine, Henk joined a queue for use of the ports' machines, since the use of them was included in the mooring charge of €23 per night.  And so the day was taken up with hanging out and bringing in washing, plus some ironing!  We invited Henk over for a drink at 7 p.m. before walking into town for dinner.  After a fifteen minute walk through the narrow lanes of Avignon we came across a restaurant on a corner that took our fancy - AOC Cave de Vin.  The young waitress looked a bit harassed but welcomed us in and said we'd have to wait 20 minutes for service.........no problem so we sat down.  She was indeed harassed as there must have been 40 or so covers and she was operating alone!  We had a very good meal, not too expensive and immaculately served by the efficient young lady.  Just as we were finishing, a man with a guitar came and played and sang a few Italian songs........very good!  We tipped him, paid the bill and set off for home.  As we came to a junction, Henk and Skip had a split decision on which road to take.  When Skip said he remembered a landmark and Crew agreed, Henk acquiesced.  My Dutch navigator is definitely sacked!!  A nightcap on board, then bed.

Sunday 21st August - St. Gilles to Avignon

We left just after 9 a.m. - life jackets at the ready, as it's compulsory to wear them in the big Rhone locks.  It was a beautiful day - not too hot with an almost cloudless sky.  About 3 km from our mooring we arrived at St. Gilles lock.  Although  there is hardly any rise and fall it is a very large lock and we had to wait around for about twenty minutes before we could go through.  Another 20 km on Le Petit Rhone saw us at the junction and we were on the mighty Rhone!  Now to see how strong the current is running with the added disadvantage of the wind against us.  As we motored on towards our first Rhone lock (Beaucaire - 15m) the wind started to strengthen but as the current wasn't running too fast we made pretty good progress.  We arrived in Avignon just about 3.30 but it was a while after that by the time we moored.  Aphrodite rafted up against a very smart Australian barge a couple of metres longer than herself and Cornelis k. on the quay behind a hotel boat.  A nice young lady Capitaine helped us in and told us that the hotel boat would be leaving port at 11p.m. so that we could move in the morning, since we deserved a rest day and planned on staying for two nights.  The new marina in Avignon was swept away in a very nasty Mistral a few years ago and, as no replacement has yet been built, the moorings are on the old quay and are at a premium.  We had a well deserved couple of beers and a chat then arranged to re- convene at 7 p.m.  However, a little later Skip said he was feeling unwell, so Crew and Henk went out for dinner alone.  As we had eaten a few times in the main square we de decided to go 'off piste' and look elsewhere.  We found a smaller square with a few bars and restaurants and plumped for one, after an inspection of menus.  We had been eating out quite a lot so decided on just one main course of duck, which was certainly passable, if not excellent!  Finding our way back was not as easy as we thought however.......for some reason we both felt that we should keep turning right (which, on reflection, made no sense at all!) and we got fairly lost.  It wasn't until a young man asked Crew for a light did we decide to ask where the port was!  He pointed us in the right direction and we were soon 'home'.  Crew had trusted the navigation to Henk but as of today, her navigator is sacked!!!  We had a small Armagnac on Cornelis k. then Crew went back to Aphrodite to check on her patient.  He was through the worst but still hot - decided that sleep was the best medicine.

61km 2 locks 6 1/2 hours

Saturday 20th August - Aigues-Mortes to St. Gilles

We left at 10.30 - Henk in front of us for a change.  The plan was to make for St. Gilles but not actually moor in the port but to moor on the side of the canal - it's about time that Crew re-familiarised herself with the galley, so dinner on board for a change.  We arrived at a couple of single pontoons but they were occupied so we moored on a nice grassy bank at around one o'clock.  A bite of lunch and a fairly lazy afternoon for us as we have a heavy day tomorrow, cruising 61km on ale Petit Rhone.  Crew cooked a steak dinner - fillet steak brought from England......probably won't do that again as am not too sure that the meat travels that well!  We drank some wine and chatted about the following days' cruise then to bed......need to be fit in the morning!

0 locks 26km 2 1/2 hours

Friday 19th August - Palavas-les-Flots to Aigues-Mortes

Apologies readers - yesterday's' blog should have just read Palavers-les-Flots and not to Aigues-Mortes.
Today's the day!  We left around ten o'clock as usual and had a very pleasant uneventful cruise through the Camargue countryside, spotting flamingos and white horses on the way.  On arrival in Aigues-Mortes (translated it means 'dead water') we set about looking for moorings.  It is one of the most expensive places to moor - 37€ per night with power and water!  We found a spot for Cornelis k. which looked as if it was free of charge and Aphrodite took a place on the other side of the 'welcome pontoon', hoping not to be noticed!  Unfortunately a young man in a RIB turned up and we had to bear the expense.......c'est la vie!!  Henk was luckier and was not charged.  We invited Henk over for a bite of lunch - as he was on the other side of the canal he came on his electric bike.....handy machine!  Another very warm lazy afternoon followed.  We invited Henk for drinks at 6.30 and then off into town for dinner.  Aigues-Mortes is a fascinating town, dominated by the Tower of Constance whose walls are six metres thick in some places.  The ramparts of this fortified town have seven gates, dating from the end of the 13th century.  Across the road from our mooring was one of the gates so we crossed the road and indeed, a railway line to reach the gate.  We were thrilled to enter the town from a different gate than we have on our previous visits - good to have a different perspective!  We started to look for somewhere good to dine, the criteria being not to eat in the very crowded main square (where we have always eaten before).  The first restaurant only had a table for two so we carried on and found Le Patione a lovely restaurant with a very pretty little courtyard.  The service was very good and we enjoyed a good meal - again rather expensive!  Not too late to bed again - Peters' party still having an effect on us all!

0 locks  26 km  2hrs. 45mins.

Thursday 18th August - Palavas-les-Flots to Aigues-Mortes

After yesterday's' marathon a quiet day was definitely on the cards.  Frank and Skip went to the boulangerie for bread and croissants for a late breakfast.  At about 11.30 Peter, Gwen and a half a dozen of yesterday's party guests arrived.  We all chatted for half an hour or so and then it was decided that Peter would drive Frank and Carol to Montpelier station - it was a little early for their train but it saved the bother of getting a taxi (not always easy in France!).  So, back to our original crew of three.  We relaxed for a while, then Crew got on with the washing, taking in a few things of Henks' too.  Forgot to mention that the party dress code was white - Skip had no white shorts (not allowed them for obvious reasons!) so had bought some in Beziers and Henk managed to find a white t-shirt.  Somehow Henk managed to acquire a large red wine stain on his t-shirt and was unable to completely get rid of it, so Crew worked her magic and was pleased to see it emerge from the machine pristinely white again.  We had lunch on board then a siesta.  We decided to dine down near the beach and Henk had done a recce and found two or three suitable restaurants.  We made our choice and enjoyed a fish dinner - certainly not bad if a little pricey!  Henk retired to bed (it's very tiring talking and listening to a foreign language for hours on end as he had yesterday!).  Skip and Crew followed soon after.

Wednesday 17th August - Palavas-les-Flots

Today's the big day - Peter Baars 60th birthday lunch!  Just after 11.30 he came to the boats to pick us up and take us back to the lovely old house that they had rented, a 10 minute or so drive from our moorings.  Peter and Gwen have four grown up children - two girls and two boys.  They had all made it over to France with their respective other halves, two of the siblings even flying from New Zealand!  As they had arrived a few days earlier they set to organising their fathers' party with gusto.  The plan was a long 10 course lunch for the family, and twenty-two friends......quite a major effort!  The house was a grand affair, being the house of the Domaine de Boudile with fairly large grounds  - ideal for a party of 30 people.  We started of with some bubbles (of course) and then the 'children' got us all together in the large front reception room to view an amazing video of Peter and Gwen........a very thoughtful thing for them to do!  Apart from a short storm during the afternoon the weather was warm if a little cloudy. The party got into full swing and the mammoth feast began!  The youngest daughter, Erina, had organised her siblings and some friends beautifully and the 10 courses were dispatched with grace and efficiency, while the music played and the wine flowed!!  The house had a pool so Peter and Henk had a brief swim - the youngsters made use of it a bit later. A game of boules was played and a game new to us like Skittles with numbers....good fun!  We were all flagging a bit after the 10 th course - and then, came cake!!  Sara, a lovely French girl the Baars know called a cab for us.......they would be at the end of the lane in 10 minutes.  We had to say our 'goodbyes' which, as we all know, takes longer than that!!  Piet, the Baars' second son, took us to the end of the lane to meet the taxi but when we approached, he drove off - disaster!!  Piet drove us home in the end.....a bit worrying after such a long day of carousing!!
It had been the best party.......one that will be talked about for many months to come!
Straight to bed, needless to say!!

Tuesday 16th August - Frontignan to Palavas-les-Flots

We had to take the 8.30 bridge opening but the plan was to tie up the other side of the bridge for a while and get ourselves organised........bit of an early start for Crew and Henk!!  We started off again at 9.45 under a cloudy sky with a fair bit of wind......where's our summer gone!!  Even sweaters  were issued!  We arrived in Palavas at 11.15 which was good considering that we thought it would be a two hour run - Aphrodite and Cornelis k. were pushed to their limits since it was such a dreary day and it was a fairly boring long straight course.  We started to be concerned about finding a space to moor but found a few places near the Capitainerie in the end.  All the boats were moored on a slant - front in.  We tried to go in stern to but the Capitaine appeared and said better to follow the rest as the water level was low (which in fact we were just finding out!).  This is a first for us and not too easy with the lines and the fendering especially since many small boats were passing pretty fast!!  We wandered into town - a typical seaside town, if a little scruffy.  We had a few drinks in a waterfront bar then returned to the boat for a bread and cheese lunch.  Frank and Carol were due to arrive at Montpelier station just after 7p.m.  However they didn't arrive at the boat until 9.15!!  Crew was panicking somewhat about food but as they had had a good lunch they were happy with nibbles.  We while away the evening drinking wine and catching up.

17 km  1 1/4 hours

Monday 15th August - Frontignan

A fairly late start for Crew but today a little cleaning needed to be started as tomorrow Frank and Carol, our New Zealand friends would be coming aboard.  Their boat is in St. Jean de Losne but they wanted to attend Peters' 60th birthday party in Montpelier so they are taking a train from Dijon and joining us in Palavas-les-Flots as we offered them a bed for a couple of nights.  Henk arrived just after 2.30 and rafted alongside us.  He joined us for a beer and chat and we watched as the boats started to arrive for the 4 o'clock bridge opening.  The road bridge only opens twice each day - 8.30 in the morning and 4 in the afternoon.  Eight boats passed through from the other direction first then eight from our direction, although a very inexperienced hire boat crew were not quick enough on the uptake - they made a last minute go for it and the man operating the bridge stopped it from closing so that they could just get through but, last minute they chickened out and came and moored in front of us!  We whiled away the rest of the afternoon, contemplating where to eat.  Henk asked the Capitaine but he wasn't really sure which restaurants would be open as it was a 'feria' - strange he should use a Spanish word for 'fair'!  We looked to see if a hotel that Henk had found was open for dinner but, alas....no!  We ended up eating a pretty good dinner in the L'Epicurien restaurant, next to the usual Vietnamese restaurant that we have frequented before.  Digestifs on the back deck then to bed - the sea air seems to be making us sleepy!

Sunday 14th August - Agde to Frontignan

We left our mooring at 10 a.m.and had to turn round to make for the famous round Agde lock.  Unfortunately we hadn't noticed the large passenger boat coming up behind us so we had to pull in to the bank and let him pass before we could turn.  We managed to tie off whilst waiting for the lock luckily as eventually seven boats in all wanted to lock through.  After about 15 minutes the gates opened and the fun began!  We went in second so we're able to get our favourite spot (out of the danger zone!!).  The eclusier was kept very busy trying to get the hire boats settled safely - he certainly earns his money!!  Finally we exited the lock just after 11 a.m.  Half an hour further along the canal we came across our friends, Quentin and Denise on their boat Rinanbe

..a nice surprise!  We tied off behind them and went aboard for a coffee and a catch up.  Of course the wine and beer subsequently appeared and we spent a couple of very pleasant hours chewing the cud!!  We reluctantly bid our farewells as we had another lock to get through and then the Etang de Thau to traverse.  The Etang is the second largest in France, famous for its' oyster beds and mussels and is around 20 km across to the Canal du Rhone a Sete.  Arriving at our last lock on the Canal du Midi we found three boats already in the lock.  We thought if one of the boats could move up that we would fit but the young eclusier gave no instructions so we had to wait.  Luckily it was not a very deep lock and it didn't take long to fill.  About 40 minutes later saw us at the entrance to the Etang and an absolutely fabulous day for our crossing.....perfect blue sky and not much wind.  We crossed in just over an hour and reached the canal around 4 o'clock.  We were very lucky to find a mooring space to squeeze into and got ourselves settled with free power!  The plan was to stay in Frontignan for two nights so that Henk could catch up.  We had a relaxed dinner on board, watched a silly film and bed with lots of sea air in our lungs!!

2 locks  36 km  7 hours

Saturday 13th August - Beziers to Agde

Poor Henk - he has woken up with severe tummy trouble!  Since we all had Steak Tartare (raw beef) last night not too surprising perhaps.  Skip was not feeling 100% but not too bad and Crew was as right as ninepence but had only eaten half of her meal!  Henk was not well enough so Skip said that we would carry on to Agde and wait for him to catch up there.  We left at 10.30 and had a very pleasant run to Agde with just one other boat under a flawless blue sky with a decent amount of breeze. On arriving in Agde, we thought we would try our luck in the Canalous hire base for starters but, no luck......the port was full.  So we started to look for a suitable place to moor......again, everywhere 'No Parking' signs - to be expected in August I guess!!  We eventually moored on a scruffy bank - not much chance of Crew getting off the boat easily to sample the delights of Agde!  So a relaxed afternoon, apart from the many small hire boats speeding past us and very inexperienced large hire boats seemingly trying to unseat us from our mooring - we are tied onto our spikes, driven into fairly sandy soil (the Mediterranean is only a couple of miles away!).  As we were enjoying our aperitifs, around 7.30, a large passenger boat passed - very slowly I have to say but the undertow was such that it took our stern spike straight out!  Luckily Skip was very quick on the uptake and sprang into action, knocking over his (empty) beer bottle in the process!  We managed to re- position the spike and normality was resumed!  We had a late salad supper (too hot in that galley for Crew!) and, finally the boat traffic ceased, leaving us in peace and quiet at last!  There was some kind of music thing going on in the town but since it is pitch dark here, getting there would be rather difficult and, judging by the sound of the music......not worth the effort!!  So a couple of our own CDs and bed!

4 locks. 23 km  4 hours

Friday 12 th August - Colombiers to Beziers

Arthur left his mooring around 8.30 - his plan was to stay on the canal bank just before the 7 locks at Fonserannes because although going down single handed was not a problem, returning would be very difficult.  Aphrodite and Cornelis k. left at 11.30 to lock down the flight at 1 p.m.  By the time we reached Arthur all three of us were very thirsty and Arthurs' offer of a nice cold beer couldn't be refused!!  Arthur joined Henk for the run into Beziers and apart from a bit of a delay in locking down the deep lock (6.2 metres) all went very well.  We were not too surprised to see 'No Parking' signs now along a good part of the long quay in Beziers, reserved for passenger boats, taking a lot of the available space.....this is becoming a very common occurrence and is most annoying!!  We tried to moor alongside but found the space just a little too small so we ended up rafted to Henk.  The call of the bar across the road with ice cold beer was a bit too much for some of us, so Arthur went across and placed an order.  It was by now over 30 degrees with very little wind so the shady terrace was most welcome.  Arthur left to find a bus to take him back to his boat and Skip went to the Orange shop to top up our I-Pad wi-fi.  We decided to eat in the restaurant just past the lock where we had all eaten before so, after an aperitif or two on Aphrodites' aft deck we made our way there.  The meal was unfortunately not quite as good as we remembered and the service a little unwilling!  A last digestif back on board and so to bed.

8locks 8km  3 hours

2016 Part two

We left England on Sunday, spending two nights in hotels on our way back to Aphrodite in Colombiers.  The unloading of the car was very arduous as the car park is quite a way from the boat.  Henk, our Dutch friend who was to travel with us (his plan is to overwinter in Holland) arrived in the port but was unable to find a suitable spot to moor.  The water level was very low and, apart from hire boats it makes mooring impossible, so Henk moored alongside the canal.  After a few trips to the car it was decided to go for a cold beer since the fridge was not yet cold.  We messaged Henk to tell him where we were in case he wanted to join us.  No question about it of course.....he was over in a flash! A few beers and a good catch up later, Arthur arrived - so more drinks!!   This wasn't going to get the loading up done!!  We also had a bite to eat as we had left without breakfast.  We arranged to meet up on Henks' boat (Cornelis k) at 7.30 for drinks then Skip, Henk and Crew went to eat in Au Lavoir restaurant.  The food there is far superior to any of the restaurants in the port - a good dinner was enjoyed by us all!
Wednesday was spent getting Aphrodite shipshape, then Crew invited Henk and Arthur over for drinks and dinner......lovely evening.
We still had issues with the window that was broken on our last trip.  The glass that was ordered was not the right size when it turned up so Neil, the engineer had a Plexiglas one fitted.  The real thing will have to wait until we get to St. Jean de Losne at the end of our trip.  The only problem was that it was not wise to re-fit the windscreen wiper as the 'glass' would probably not be strong enough for it.  Then again, the wipers sent from Boarnstream in Holland were not the right size either so Skip had to go to the motor shop to find the right size wipers.  Nothing but problems with boats!!  We promised Henk a lunch in one of our favourite restaurants in Poilhes and Arthur was to join us too. Hmm........lucky Crew - three men!!  We would have liked to have taken Aphrodite out but, as the water level was so low, we had our doubts about being able to get back into our mooring spot.  So we went in Henks' boat.  We had a delicious lunch and a lovely cruise back in the sunshine.  Neil arrived shortly after we got back as one of our two remaining windscreen wipers was not working - we needed two out of three at least!  The problem was fixed and a lazy afternoon and evening followed as we are on the move tomorrow!Au  revoir Colombiers

2016 Part two

We left England on Sunday, spending two nights in hotels on our way back to Aphrodite in Colombiers.  The unloading of the car was very arduous as the car park is quite a way from the boat.  Henk, our Dutch friend who was to travel with us (his plan is to overwinter in Holland) arrived in the port but was unable to find a suitable spot to moor.  The water level was very low and, apart from hire boats it makes mooring impossible, so Henk moored alongside the canal.  After a few trips to the car it was decided to go for a cold beer since the fridge was not yet cold.  We messaged Henk to tell him where we were in case he wanted to join us.  No question about it of course.....he was over in a flash! A few beers and a good catch up later, Arthur arrived - so more drinks!!   This wasn't going to get the loading up done!!  We also had a bite to eat as we had left without breakfast.  We arranged to meet up on Henks' boat (Cornelis k) at 7.30 for drinks then Skip, Henk and Crew went to eat in Au Lavoir restaurant.  The food there is far superior to any of the restaurants in the port - a good dinner was enjoyed by us all!
Wednesday was spent getting Aphrodite shipshape, then Crew invited Henk and Arthur over for drinks and dinner......lovely evening.
We still had issues with the window that was broken on our last trip.  The glass that was ordered was not the right size when it turned up so Neil, the engineer had a Plexiglas one fitted.  The real thing will have to wait until we get to St. Jean de Losne at the end of our trip.  The only problem was that it was not wise to re-fit the windscreen wiper as the 'glass' would probably not be strong enough for it.  Then again, the wipers sent from Boarnstream in Holland were not the right size either so Skip had to go to the motor shop to find the right size wipers.  Nothing but problems with boats!!  We promised Henk a lunch in one of our favourite restaurants in Poilhes and Arthur was to join us too. Hmm........lucky Crew - three men!!  We would have liked to have taken Aphrodite out but, as the water level was so low, we had our doubts about being able to get back into our mooring spot.  So we went in Henks' boat.  We had a delicious lunch and a lovely cruise back in the sunshine.  Neil arrived shortly after we got back as one of our two remaining windscreen wipers was not working - we needed two out of three at least!  The problem was fixed and a lazy afternoon and evening followed as we are on the move tomorrow!Au revoir Colombiers.

plans for second half of 2016 Cruise

We will leave England on Sunday August 7th and will stop twice driving through France to rejoin Aphrodite on the 9th August in Colombiers.
2 days then preparing Aphrodite including ,a nice lunch in Poilhes  and we will set sail   midday on Saturday 13th August to catch the afternoon  descent down the 7 locks of Fronserannes 13.30 to 15.30 and moor in Beziers for the night and update our SIM cards at the Orange shop 6k 8locks
14th August we will leave Beziers for Agde 24k 4locks
15th August we cross the Etang de Thau, so a 9k 3lock cruise from Agde to the Etang which is roughly 20k from end to end so about 90minss cruising ,then 6k no locks to moorat Frontignan. 35k 3locks
there is  a lifting bridge at Frontignan which is meant to open at 8.30 and 16.00 so we will catch the 8.30 opening and cruise the 17k to Palavos Les Flots where we need to find a mooring to stay for Peters 60th party
Frank and Carol,our Kiwi friendsi join us aboard Ahrodite for 2 days to join in the celebrations
We will probably stay 3days before heading off down the Rhone a Sete
Day4  Aigues Mortes 24k 0 locks
Day5 St Gilles 27k 1 lock
Day6 St GillesTo Avignon  via the Petit Rhone and then the Rhone .The lower reaches of the Rhone is where the current is at its strongest so we will be battling against this current which will make it heavy going .5k and 1lock to the Petit Rhone .21k along the Petit Rhone  then 35k 1lock on the Rhone and then Avignon is 3k off the Rhone
Day 7 Avignon to L'Ardoise  34k 1 lock Pk214
Day 8 L'Ardoise to Viviers 52k 2 locks Pk 166
Day9 Viviers to Valence  54k 3locks PK112
Day 10 Valence to Les Rouches De Condrieu  71k 3 locks Long Day
Day 11 Les Rouches de Condrieu to Lyon  40k 2 lock Pk0
The current will now be much reduced against us so a sigh of relief all round
Day 12  Lyon to Trevoux  31k 1 lock PK 31
Day 13 Trevoux to Macon  52k  0locks PK83
Day 14 Macon to Tournus  27k 0locks  PK 112
 If we have time we may take a detour down the river Seille  PK 106
Day 15  Tournus to Chalon  30k 1 lock PK 142
Day 16 Chalon to Seurre  45k 1 lock  PK187
Day 17 Seurre to St Jean de Losne  28k 1 lock
so we only have 17sailing days from Colombiers to St Jean de Losne  and we have set aside 45days for our stay in France  so we have a few rest and party  days
We will probably arrive in St Jean around  mid to late September and so may well  go up the Canal du Rhone au Rhin  stopping at Dole and Besancon